Tirefryr

How bad is it that I know that's a U-line box because I have the phone number memorized?

I didn't mean to limit this to the centrifugal either. All PD's I've been around have been on old iron.They are different sounding animals. The Eatons seem to have a higher pitched whine, but not as bad as the centrifugals, and the screw blowers just sound like angry hamsters rolling their wheels.

I think that's why Vortech bought Paxton. They needed and intercooled kit and it was cheaper to buy than build. Their aftercooler is nice, but they are and afterthought, and not many like them. Not to mention they are an extra $2K.

They've never bothered me either, but I don't think I'd want one on a daily driver. I actually like the whine. Most people don't realize how loud it can be though.

Idling or driving.

None of them are quiet per se, but the Vortech SQ is the quietest. The ProChargers seem to be the loudest though.

Perhaps I should read ahead next time.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order. Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich. Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level. what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him. He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on. He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune. Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done. If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later. You're always going to want to play it safe anyways. There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe. hmm I'll contact SCT and see what they say. There are plenty of places to buy from and most will deal with tuning as well. There are a LOT of great tuners in the Mustang world; guys who have literally done thousands of tunes and helped many manufacturers build their kits even. Likely, whomever you buy from will be able to hook you up. I like ATI, but be warned, they are NOISY and there is no turning that noise off.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area.You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order. Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich. Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level. what year Mustang is it? Putting forced induction on your car you'll definately want a dyno tune. Not every engine is the same and they'll need to play with your timing also.Nah, a generic tune will work fine for him. He's not beefing up the rotating assembly, so use something someone has already done the legwork on. He's not number hunting, so no real need for the dyno tune. Call some tuners, get a tune, you're done. If you're not satisfied, or want to push it, get a tune later. You're always going to want to play it safe anyways. There are plenty of guys who have a buttload of tunes already and one of them will get you close enough to stay safe.

But the only caveat is I'm having troubles finding a dyno tuner specializing in mustangs in my area. You should be able to get a generic tune via mail order. Given the fact you are just throwing boost and fuel at it, there's no need to dyno since you are going to be running rich. Someone should have a tune already that will work fine at that level.

I will disagree with several points in that argument, but I have no energy to battle tonight.

So I find myself checking out every black Escalade now trying to catch a glimpse of the Jolly Green giant.

Sweating pipe is simple. If you can't get it to work, it's not clean. Simple as that.

If you oil it improperly.

To Sean.

Why?

Just a wee bit big for that little fella. 4 cylinders. I forget they even make those.Half a liter more, it would be okay.

I am going to china and ordering some subs and amps to sell. Gonna make some cool youtube vids with no information and just sell the shit out of shit.

Just a wee bit big for that little fella.

Have you heard of pre-preganated materials? This is that, but instead of using heat to cure, this uses UV. I am glad you posted this as I was holding off my fiberglass work due to the cold. Now, I can do it in this crap! Great find!

X infinity! Get the processing out of my amplifier.

WOW! I can't imagine! Congrats to them on many more!

So you have replaced the Singer alt 3 times with other Singer alts? Visually check your cable and meter for resistance. Simple corrosion on a terminal you may not be able to see and can render a cable useless. Check, check, check, then contact Singer again. At this point, it's either the cable or faulty components.

Your regulator is self-exciting, so you don't need the other wire. The cable going from alt to batt is all you need. Is this your third alt from the same manufacturer? If so, I suspect you have a bad cable or the manufacturer has a bad run of regulators.

Here is where the confusion lies. When you use this term, it implies interesting in staging, proper staging, however, reading into your posts I get that you want solid midbass and "highs," but you are not concerned about staging, only getting loud.