Tirefryr

Guys, go to Lowes or HD or your local electrical supply and look at this cable. Try to bend it and you will never think of buying it.

I know it's a study, but why do people continue to buy Chrysler products when they are literally shit. Four out the the five worst brands are every Chrysler line.

By this you mean inject countless amounts of roids and binge on working out?

Um, No.

You can safely buy and use this wire, BUT, you will need a pipe bender and a gorilla to bend it and . It is NOT fllexible at all. It would be equivalent to attemping to run a large copper pipe. You will not be able to manipulate this cable to the confines of an automobile. The insulation is also far from ideal for automotive use. It is thinner and harder and can scratch, break, and crack with the temperature extremes in the auto world. Trust me, I have worked with this stuff my entire life. IF you want to cheapen out, look for DLO or Diesel Locomotive Cable. IT is multi-stranded like welding cable with a very tough and flexible jacket. It's not as flexible as car-audio spec, or welding cable, but it can be cheaper and will work.

Now, fuck YOU Sean! Give me that view, you can have ALL my snow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wish it melted here; I had to shovel all that shit this morning.

That is absolutely the LAST thing I would dream about or desire to ingest. If I want bacon, I will eat bacon. It is perfect and can not be enhanced in any way and that abomination of a milk shake is an injustice the the pigs who gave their lives so we could enjoy bacon.

Quit deleting posts and answer the questions.

Why not just buy a 3lb. bag of sugar and some food coloring for $1.50?

My finger tips are cracked and bleeding now. I think anyone who works with their hands or washed them a lot has this problem.

Boo.

Post pics of the build.

Yeah, all the two part (catalyzing) foams are solvent-resistant.

Stefan, gasoline won't work on the two part foam. You're only hope of removal is by mechanical means if you want to remove it.

Then buy an older Mustang. Resale and money lost on a car should never be calculated any by any formula except: buying price - selling price. You can choose to amortize the repairs in the buying price or not, but that makes it more of a prediction. Adding operational cost and insurance and such is also of interest. Either way, I'd actually own a Mustang. No way in hell would I own that Subbie. Well, duh. What other formula could possibly work there? Resale ALWAYS needs to be thought when purchasing young. If you're going to dump $30K into a vehicle, you sure want to be able to recoup some of that money when you sell. I don't think these kids realize what they are doing when purchasing new vehicles at that young age. They need to be aware they are basically throwing money away.

He wasn't worried about speed then. Just keep in mind, if you dump all that money into the Mustang, you will never get it back. The Subaru will ALWAYS have better resale than a V6 Mustang.

Much more sleep.

I need more sleep.

Yeah and it wasn't exactly cheap. I found SEM has Metalock DTM High Build Primer. It's two part, http://semproducts.com/product-catalog/specialty-products/primers/metalock-dtm-high-build-primer/ Also going to check out upol. Any brand suggestions so I know what's the cheap shit to avoid? SEM is good. Any good name brand shit will work. Upol is good, anything from 3M, Dupont, PPG, any of the other name brand paint suppliers, etc.

You already have the paint and can't return it, so it's worth a shot.

Starting to snow here, but just barely. Go figure. I'll be working Sat, so I won't get OT.

Tomorrow I'll look for upol high f or sem high build primer. I can get it in a rattle can or regular can. I forgot about it, but the oem volvo paint doesn't require any finishing coat, so I'm guessing it already has some enamel or protection? Sorry if I sound like I'm ignoring any parts of your advice, I'm not, I'm just new to the whole process, and don't know what applies to what. IE: textured roller for only paint, or primer & paint? If I used the roller for the primer, then I should get the primer in a can, not rattle can. If I used the roller for the paint, I would spray the paint with the rattle can, and immediately roll over it? Textured roller: http://www.amazon.com/Shur-Line-13000-Texture-Cover/dp/B000DZGQPU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1328755250&sr=1-4 Were you thinking something along those lines as far as texture? Again, I'd prime with a catalyzing primer as well. You are dead on with the roller. Now, you can paint with anything you want and it can come out good, but growing up a body shop, I have seen plenty of chips in FG from cheap paint jobs. If you want to do it the cheapest way, get some DIY bedliner or some other urethane coating and roll it on with that textured roller. It'll be rubberized and water-based, so it will cure with evaporation. Some are two part as well, and many you can even have tinted.

At the very least i would use an enamel with hardener or an epoxy. You'd have to buy a sprayer, or what I think would work really well and look awesome would be a textured roller.

What are you painting with? FG will scratch SUPER easy and I'd suggest using nothing but a catalyzed urethane.