Everything posted by Tirefryr
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Welcome to the IHoP
Put a little pressure on the pedal. If the sound goes away, it's the throwout bearing. Do you mean just push down lightly and if it doesn't squeak it's the throwout bearing? Yep.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Put a little pressure on the pedal. If the sound goes away, it's the throwout bearing.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Let's see, he's under the front end, with a sway bar bushing, applying grease, yup, he's fingering the tail pipe. What you missed is the final picture where he sniffs his finger after.
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Welcome to the IHoP
They can only do what the idiot behind the volume knob tells them to.
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I am beginning to get frustrated with Fi
Every company has issues like these. It's how they handle it which will determine whether you are satisfied or not. I'm sure Nick will take care of you shortly here. Chances are though, if you truly did blow it, it won't be covered by warranty as warranty does not cover abuse.
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Dcon or Icon?
And why would you say that? Someone with more experience would not need to ask and would know how to handle the power with the Dcon. You are better off with the Icon at that power level and since you have more at your disposal, if needed, you wouldn't have to upgrade from the Dcon in the future. I have plenty of knowledge on what I'm asking. I was just basically wondering if the Dcon rms rating was conservative at 300 rms. I know how to set and maintain my equipment. And I've been in car audio since the mid 90's so I'm confident in my knowledge. I just don't have any experience with these woofers. But thank you for you reply and assuming & telling me I have little experience. Just trying to help, and that's how I read it.
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Hows' ADASSA Audio?
Fs of 40hz! I kno man, thats loud as hell! I talked to the guy. He said they take 6k extremely well & people in Italy are very impressed with them. They look beefy though, I'm lovin the quad stacked magnets! I seen some pics on this sub yesterday on a forum found by "Google" and he had 1 15" kevlar in a small spl box 2-3cubes. And it hit a amazing 151db+! That may not seem that much 2 you guys but that was a single sub + it the setup was in the trunk of a car. An SPL score tells you NOTHING about the performance of a woofer while listening to music. Power handling means nothing at well. So it handles 6K, big whoop, that means nothing as well. Why on earth do you need a driver to handle 6K for daily when 500 is more than enough. I'll stop here as I don't want to get into the stupidity of marketing today and ignorance.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Thanks! I'll get some pipe and measure to see what I have to do to mold flush with the flange, then I'll let you know.
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Dcon or Icon?
And why would you say that? Someone with more experience would not need to ask and would know how to handle the power with the Dcon. You are better off with the Icon at that power level and since you have more at your disposal, if needed, you wouldn't have to upgrade from the Dcon in the future.
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Dcon or Icon?
If you really have to ask, go with Icon so you have less chance of damaging the driver.
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Hows' ADASSA Audio?
Yes, but that will add DB's! At least they use a (semi) renewable material. Well, that's assuming that's real bamboo. It's probably foam with a vinyl sticker veneer.
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Hows' ADASSA Audio?
No, economics. The geography part just comes along with it.
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Welcome to the IHoP
I mine as well order a few gallons of resin, mekp, and mat while I'm at it. If you're looking at the two part stuff, it will NOT dissolve with a solvent.
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Hows' ADASSA Audio?
I'm wondering the same. Well, let's see. Given the chinese driver, they're paying maybe $40-50 for the driver, then add in shipping to bring it over here and packaging, being extremely generous they are at, let's say $100 per driver. One driver costs $2 more than the other, so you multiply by whatever arbitrary number they use and when it's all said and done, that $2 turns into $65.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Yes, airspring as in air space behind the driver and how it effects the frequency response? The reason I'm looking to open up the back of each kick is to equal out the volume on either side, otherwise one might have 0.15 and the other 0.08 I may also try filling them with kitty litter, measure the volumes, if they are close enough, leave them, or possibly possibly try porting them into the dash. Yep. You've got it.
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Welcome to the IHoP
So you just want a place to mount the drivers? You're not taking into account the airspring behind them?
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Welcome to the IHoP
Alright thanks, I'm thinking of using the foam to get the shape of the kick, but didn't want it to start becoming goop once I applied resin. Only issue is once you have completed it, you have to remove the foam.
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Hows' ADASSA Audio?
I have nothing nice to say, but I will say, China and "daily" woofers with farting fs. So many better options for that money.
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Welcome to the IHoP
If you want to dissolve polyurethane foam, use gasoline.
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Welcome to the IHoP
It will NOT dissolve polyurethane foam like expanding foam. It will eat polystyrene, like the blue, pink, or white foam insulation board you see.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Next time, use green tape. It has a wax layer on top. Combined with the styrene (I assume you're using polyester resin), it should separate with no issue.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Bracing has yielded to be more efficient in aiding with rigidity versus laminating sheets. There was a white paper on Adire's site many moons ago.
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Welcome to the IHoP
How the hell are you using tape to mount anything? I can see using pipe strap, but tape? I'm lost.
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WTS/WTT HAT L8 woofers
Prices are required as well. Thanks.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Just trying to save my ass some time. I'll be molding the vents from foam, so I will be able to attach the flare any way I want. I would just prefer to have some glass to laminate to versus ABS.