Tirefryr

Absolutely no need. The only way you're going to get enough mechanical movement to damage them in a sealed alignment is you go get to the point where they're basically IB or if you're just a tool with the power and bass knobs. You're good with it off. I promise.

You're welcome. I called 94.7 this morning and warned everyone to stay out of your way.

Tin knocking is an MFer! Mad skillz!

Damn, they have guns in Canada?! I thought they just beat people with hockey sticks and dead moose!

Dude, I'm sorry! Don't know how I missed his passing. RIP Big guy!

I believe the light just shows that it's powered on. You could have an issue on the input or output side and the amp will still power on, but not work. Obviously there is an issue somewhere or it would emit sound. I'd contact the manufacturer for repair.

FUCK BOSTON! GO YANKS!

OMG, I've not heard that name since the 90s. I was SURE they'd long been out of business. What don't you like about the Alpines? You're looking for loud with 4 ten inch drivers and IMO, that's pretty much going to overwhelm nearly everything else outside of it's passband.

I think you've all seen the shit show that is my Mustang.

The spammer got you!

This is where I was going next. If your voltage is equal, you're only left with phase/cancellation/ or TA, which will affect phase and cancellation as well. The only other thing I can think of is driver wear or short. Once the coil warms up, something can be going awry and causing a resistance increase, effectively dropping power. It can read properly at the terminals, but effectively leak past that point. Odd, but just throwing possibilities out there.

You bumped a two-year-old dead thread to inform us that the length measurement is the length?

Switch the RCAs on the amp input and see if the input issue switches side. If it stays on the same side, the issue is with the amplifier. Where are you measuring and what are you measuring with? 8dB is a HUGE difference. I don't see how you could overlook this if it was happening previously. I have had a similar issue before with a shorted RCA cable. One side had a 2V voltage drop. Took me a year to figure it out. Throw some tones at it with your meter on it and do some measurements with full sweep of the volume control.

You just let me know when you want to pick it up. I'l even air up the tires for you.

I've never been upset at the loss of a pet. I'm not sure I'm capable of being emotionally attached to an animal. Suck for YOUR buddy though. How old is he? Our yard dog at work is a 13-year-old German Shepherd. Up until a couple months ago she was vibrant and loved to play. Now, all she wants to do is sleep. It's odd, but I think she's depressed.

BTW, just look for a quality sign shop.

One or both of the power supplies is shorted. They should also not be run in series. That's a giant no-no. Disconnect the loads, then run 110 to each power supply and test.

It is indeed a bass boost. RF's is a parametric EQ centered at 45Hz. Bandwidth is quite wide at low boost, so I can see some usefulness there, but it narrows severely near the peak. I would never use it, but other people like that stuff. It's up to the end user.

They were not more efficient. They simply catered to efficiency by designing drivers for larger enclosures. Today, most everything is made for compact enclosures, and power is stupid cheap nowadays, so it's easy to throw a ton of power into an inefficient driver and application and get a lot of output.

Sounds like 1 of 2 things is happening here, but first, please use some punctuation in your post. Take the time to make a good quality post and you'll receive a quality answer in return. Also, no need to post multiple threads asking the same question. We'll see the first thread and respond accordingly. Now, first thing is suspect is the app. Obviously if you restart and everything comes back to normal, one would think it's the app, BUT. . . . I suspect that whatever is powering your door speakers has some form of built in protection and it is shutting down or shorting out and therefore, when you restart the app, you're essentially restarting the protection circuit. Please give us more details on the entire system.

Please don't take offense to this, but you've wasted your money. That thing is garbage, but if you want to continue with it, get rid of the converted. It's not needed. The amplifier has speaker-level inputs and you can simply run your speaker wires into those inputs negating the need for the LOC. Keep in mind your factory stereo likely has some type of attenuation circuit to cut bass frequencies as volume increases. This signal will follow the chain into the amp on the sub. You may be able to combat it with bass boost, but I fear it will simply damage the unit. It has a 25 amp fuse, so likely a 200 watt amp at best, and the enclosure volume is so tiny, I guarantee you're not getting any response from that below 50Hz. If you want some solid bass, you're going to have to step up to a real enclosure, amp, and driver. You may even be able to find a decent amplified enclosure for about $75 more. Ditch that thing ASAP!

I HIGHLY recommend the SSA Bassshades! They're miraculous!

And sensitivity does NOT equal efficiency. Nearly every driver ever made is less than 1% efficient. What this means is for every 100 watts you feed the driver, 99 or more are simply transformed into heat.

And the Pioneer spec is BS.

Damn, whomever changed the plugs last time was lazy AF, wrong plugs, or the electrode wore.