Tirefryr

Try to pry up on them to get them to bite in the wood again. I've had that happen before and that's why I only use threaded inserts now.

Copper plate the motors on those bad boys and you'd have the best looking rear on the market IMO.

They're sealed batts, you can mount them any way you'd like.

That's fucked!

I don't know what kind of finish you want on them, but a high gloss polish will help to seal the pores of the aluminum and make them shiny. The dull finish you have now can easily be kept with a simple clearcoat which will be the best bet since you can simply wash them clean with car wash whenever you want. I'd wax them at the very least, and the easiest way to keep them looking like you want them is to keep them clean, and dry them. Don't let the water dry on the wheels. It just speeds up the oxidation process. The unfortunate thing about aluminum is that it oxidizes rapidly, but that is actually good in a sense as that oxidation helps to annodize or harden the aluminum so it adds a layer of protection against corrosion, unlike steel.

Not bad. I thought you said they were covered in corrosion? That appears to just be oxidation to me.

Ask the manufacturer. They know their drivers better than anyone else.

I bet it came from Vegas. Check your texts. I got nothing. You must never have received my new number.

I bet it came from Vegas.

Buy some expanded steel from mcmaster carr. Don't use aluminum, it will be too fragile. I found 22gauge Steel, hexagonal holes, 70-79% open, you think 22gauge is thick enough? Depends on how far away from the driver you're mounting. You'll always get some bend, the trick is to control it with thickness, shape, or mounting. If I can manage to bend it all the way around, that'll definitely add some strength, but I'm not sure how I'd successfully pull that off. I might be better off just finding a lower gauge, cutting it into a circle, then attaching to a thin baffle to space it out from the driver, then some rage gold around the edges for a nice smooth finish. There's a steel shop not too far from me, I'll check out what they have and "feel the amount of bend" in center. edit, Actually I guess I could cut a baffle to size, lay it on top of the circular steel, then start bending the edges up to the baffle, then apply rage gold on the sides / resin for keeping it together. Cut a circle out of MDF about 1/4" smaller than the diameter you need, round over one edge with a router, then lay your piece of metal over it and carefully hammer the sides over. I've done this countless times. If I had some scraps, I'd make a video for you.

Buy some expanded steel from mcmaster carr. Don't use aluminum, it will be too fragile. I found 22gauge Steel, hexagonal holes, 70-79% open, you think 22gauge is thick enough? Depends on how far away from the driver you're mounting. You'll always get some bend, the trick is to control it with thickness, shape, or mounting.

Buy some expanded steel from mcmaster carr. Don't use aluminum, it will be too fragile.

. . . And they're done well to earn that reputation.

They haven't made a chromed out car since the early sixties.

Yeah, fuck that. Easy way to turn your draws brown.

Go here and you'll find some crazy off-roaders. http://www.explorerforum.com/

Beer and No-doze.

Those cars can not safely support that extra weight unless you reinforce the subframes, but I know I'm talking to a wall. As has been stated, springs, then you can find struts, since that's what those vehicles use, anywhere.

As promised. The 15" The cast frame 10" The "SPECIAL" 10s The ONLY Funky Pup mids on the planet.

I now have more respect for you than ever. I always tell people you can never have too big a vise.

I posted that one for Ryan. I fucked a bitch on the hood of the Cobra once. Took me two weeks to get the scratches out. Last time I do that. If I ain't got the truck, I don't get no fuck.

What kinds are there in the first place? The rims are covered good in corrosion. I don't know about clear coat, but it's probably gone since they are in this condition. The end result...I want to remove all corrosion and then bring back the color of the aluminum. Not a big fan of chrome wheels. And the vehicle occasionally goes off-road, so you can imagine the conditions there. No chrome. If they're corroded, you'll have to have them dipped in acid to make sure it's fully removed, then let the surface prep begin. It will be cheaper and easier to scrap them and take the money and buy different wheels.

Come on FRIDAY!

Further worsening the problem if you were ever to get into a wreck and body shops not knowing or have the tools to work with aluminum. They'll make the aluminum parts replaceable. It's not cost-effective to bond them or weld them unless they do like Aston and Ferrari and charge out the ass. All the aluminum parts will be bolt-on and replaceable. Trust me, they actually do think about replacement parts. After the sale, that's another huge business for them.

I've also seen them with spring loaded contacts like on a fuse holder.