Everything posted by Tirefryr
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copper vs aluminum for terminals/blocks
Yes, you can stack them. No need for brazing or soldering. Just keep in mind, as I previously. stated any point of contact is a point of resistance and a possible failure. Everything else you've typed is spot on. BTW, I'm a journeyman electrician of 17 years and I have much experience in the 12VDC world as well. I actually once use to build and re-manufacture alternators and other 12 and 24 volt electrical systems.
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copper vs aluminum for terminals/blocks
Personally, I will avoid aluminum at all costs. It corrodes much quicker from electrolysis and galvanic corrosion. It's just not worth the trouble in an automotive environment.
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copper vs aluminum for terminals/blocks
You can do that, but the point of contact is yet another point of resistance. With that being said, you generally need 3 times the surface area of aluminum to copper. In other words. all things other than thickness equal, a 1/4" copper bar will carry the same current (safely) as a 3/4" aluminum bar.
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copper vs aluminum for terminals/blocks
Copper is a better conductor so less material is needed versus aluminum in regards to resistance.
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death penalty 15 enclosure
11-year-old thread. Lol!
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Subwoofer reccomendation
Fly me out and I'll bring some subs and slap the shit out ya!
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Need advice on new install.
We need a goal here. Why are you only concerned about the sub bass? I would tackle that last.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
SHit, it fucking snowed here again. I'm sick of this hot, cold, hot, cold, COLD, hot bull shit.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
You know 2000+ people who have used their products and are happy with them? LOL! Clearly, Mike did not receive what was advertised.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
I would try to find OEM parts first. I've also had great success with Power Stop kits from Rock Auto. That's usually what I purchase for my daily vehicles.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
No offense, but I think you're a victim of the Chinese ebay store goods. I've never even heard of Brakemotive, and a simple Google search yields not much other than the Ebay store. A look at the photo of the rotors reveals they're grooved which means they're not machined properly, then a coating is applied over this which means even more high/low spots. I'd look elsewhere in the future.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
They can't be ceramic. Ceramic pads create very little dust and the dust they do make is opaque and hard to see. They also don't squeak or squeal. The only reason you should hear any noises from ceramic pads should be from the wear indicators. Well, that or you have a shim or something else rubbing the rotor.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Well, I finally got myself a decent beater truck. It's ugly, dirty, and rusty, but the frame and suspension is SOLID, and the mechanicals are all on point! I can finally park the bird!
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
You bringing that to Slamology?
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
I think Sean just needs to move.
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Subwoofer reccomendation
Image Dynamics ID10. Try and find the V3. They had 6 mm more Xmax than the V4s do. ID cut them back because they were outperforming the IDQ for a fraction of the price. The V4s are still fine drivers though.
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Need help deciding on components
I can't comment on any of them, but you won't find any favorable views of skar on this forum
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Need some advice on a new system
I vote for neither. The X is ridiculously large for an 8" driver and the SA is not too far off. They're not horribly efficient drivers either. Both require at least half a cube for a vented enclosure. After you add in the vent, the actual enclosure will be at or more than 1 cube gross. I'd run a single 12 sealed in that space. You gain efficiency by the increase in cone area and most likely excursion as well, so you're compounding here.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
DAMN! I hope nobody was hurt!
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Shit, I MC Hammer broke. Every time I get caught up another medical bill it crazy thing happens.
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New 10 inch Woofer Decision
LOL! That is NOT possible. The computer models are good for small signal response, but it doesn't equate to real world power levels. You can try different drivers, but I guarantee you won't be pleased for the time and money spent versus the small gains, again, if any. I get what you're trying to do, but you're better off just dealing with what you have and saving the money you would spend on new drivers. You can compound this over time and get a proper enclosure and drivers and the seat lift if you prefer. It will cost you less to do it all at once.
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New 10 inch Woofer Decision
Even though I despise the skarbage, you're not going to gain much, if anything, by simply switching drivers. Your power is staying the same, enclosure the same; the only way you're going to gain anything is with efficiency, and in this application it will be negligible. I can say, that I agree with a change from a psychosis standpoint. If it's new it will be better by default. At least with our feeble brains. I have no experience with any of the drivers you have listed either, but just by name alone, I would only pick Sundown or DD. I don't care for skar, and the others I've never heard of, DOesn't mean they are not quality drivers, but everyone and their mom is calling China and making subs nowadays.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Have I ever mentioned how much I hate car shopping?
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
That's why I think you're nuts!
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
My T-bird is frozen. I NEED a garage!