Tirefryr

You could lend me your economy for a couple of months. :) I worked 2 months to buy the amp. You(well not strictly you) probably work a week or two in the USA. You don't understand how our country works. Jordan is a Soldier, one of the most important people in our society, yet one of the least respected and THE most underpaid. And then we have useless "celebrities" and politicians who make butt loads of money for being worthless and moronic. Not to mention all of our unionized professional athletes and their salary floors Not even going to mention the absurdness that is the UAW. My Uncle has worked at the Chicago Ford Plant for over 30 years. The past 18 have been in a tool crib in which he spends a total of 30 minutes per day handing out specialized tools, and taking them back in for inventory. He makes $58/hr. . . . .

You could lend me your economy for a couple of months. :) I worked 2 months to buy the amp. You(well not strictly you) probably work a week or two in the USA. You don't understand how our country works. Jordan is a Soldier, one of the most important people in our society, yet one of the least respected and THE most underpaid. And then we have useless "celebrities" and politicians who make butt loads of money for being worthless and moronic.

Good question, I'm interested too. My extra set is in bad condition and I'd love to show it some love... It depends on what type of finish you are trying to restore. Any kind of finish works for me, price will be the main factor. Black car but I don't want chrome. They will be my pavement wheels. Gunmetal gray ? Black ? Paint is easy. Surface prep is the key. If they are steel and rust free and the current finish is not flaking, simply scuff, clean, and paint. I have used typical enamel spray paint hundreds of times with great results. You'll have to keep up on them every two years or so, but it's cheaper than a couple hundred or more for a professional paint job. If they are aluminum, it's pretty much the same. Just make sure you clean the aluminum well before painting. If there is any sort of corrosion on them, you will have to removed it, then use a metal filler over the damaged aluminum to level it, then paint as normal.

Is DC Power handling it for you?

I really don't want to dick around with these RFs I have, but I like the fact that I can mount them anywhere.

I could use your Eclipse if you still have it.

Ryan, its winter. Scratch your balls instead. Too bad you didn't live more in the snow belt, you'd love snowmobiling. I've been sledding quite a bit. I am within 30miles of the lake, so we get a lot of (lake effect, read heavy) snow here. I used to go with friends all the time several years ago, but haven't been in long time. 90mph on top of the snow is pretty damn fun. Only complaint I have is the cold wind. No amount of layers is enough to keep me warm.

Dammit, I'm getting the Mustang itch again and tax time is coming. I hope I can restrain myself.

Good question, I'm interested too. My extra set is in bad condition and I'd love to show it some love... It depends on what type of finish you are trying to restore.

1/4" is plenty for cutting circles. Ever since my straight cut bit broke, I switched to a shortened and slightly modified drill bit. It works similar to an up-spiral bit just that the cut edges aren't perfect A spiral bit is the only one I use now. I even use a combination bit regularly on plywood as it prevents tear-out and makes end grain routing a non issue. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html#2367

Personally, I think the only wheel that should ever be on a black vehicle is chrome. Nothing sets the black off better than chrome. As for your wheels choices there, I like #3 for winter.

If you want to cut precise circles, get a traditional router and a circle jig. This tool is not for precision cutting. You can find decent cheap routers on ebay for $35 or at Harbor Freight if you have one local. The router is a much better buy with more versatility and control.

Konig actually makes good wheels. They are widely used in racing and I've had them on a couple cars, one high horsepower app. I have yet to see any OEM replicas I like. Every one I have seen in person has had an issue with oxidation and poor castings.

Mental note, wheat flour sucks.

No. All FIA GT2 cars are ugly They didn't fuck the F430 up that bad.

No.

Blonde hair and blue eyes? Are you sure that's not my kid? LOL! Damn, he's getting big. Truck looks awesome inside! What's the parking sign in the garage?

ill friend request you on facebook. then check my pics theres a couple in there she will be back on the road this weekend! I can't find them. they should be on the first page. But heres my build log, theres a pic of it on the 13th page You need to replace your blow-off valve with a bypass valve or switch to a blow-through setup on the intake. You're currently dumping metered air into the atmosphere and it can cause you to run lean and potentially cause engine damage. How is it running?

I became dis-interested as soon as the page appeared.

Buy some snow tires and you'll be fine. My brother has a Lincoln LS (same chassis as the Mustang), and he prefers driving that in the snow over his old 4wd Explorer. A car with the proper rubber is a huge difference.

X2.

There's some stateside Sierra owners on turboford.net Also some very nice Merkurs.

is that a celica?? Yes, sir! I want a T23 but it's lot more $. Buy an impreza if you want J style awd winnar car. more parts, more support, more better. The Impreza is the ugliest POS ever. The AMC Matador is far more attractive in any flavor.

I re-read mine about once a year. I usually forget more than I remember though.

I'm very familiar with them and their capabilities. That was not the question. I questioned on how you measured them since you said you did, but now you're saying you didn't, so I just want to know what the truth is.