Tirefryr

Most car audio manufacturers design their drivers with this type of installation in mind. Many consider the 2 or 3 cubic feet of a door cavity to an "infinite baffle" alignment for them. THE OPs problem is cancellation between front and rear waves due to the open cavities of the door. Sealing the cavities will help to separate the front from the rear and will increase response, but it may not be ideal. As for the cone size, just like subwoofers, we are talking about myths here. I have used many a "small" driver for midbass and had excellent results, some with a cone size as small as 2". WHile it takes more effort, it's not an impossibility.

Personally, I have yet to hear any "supercar" that sounds good idling, and that Enzo not only sounds like shit, it looks horrible too. I do happen to love the music of several 10 and 12 cylinder engines winding out under load though. IMO, there are two versions of ultimate sound; and idling NHRA Pro Stocker, or an alcohol-injected big block with a roots on it struglling through overlap to stay running.

That's a no-brainer. . You hooked the power antenna lead up for the remote turn-on instead. When you switch to a source different from the tuner, it switches the antenna lead off and likewise, your amplifier. Switch the leads and you should be good. The unit should have a separate wire for amplification control. Thanks guys, will be looking at it tomorrow. That's what it was, thanks fellas. Been there, done that. That's why it was a no-brainer for me.

As do I. If I had the time, I'd drive to PA just to go.

You have to love our poorly designed, thin-skinned vehicles these days. They make for great entertainment!

Dammit, someone stole my idea, albeit with a different vehicle. Bastards!

They're all over the world.

It's a turbo; now I see the gains.

Sean, I found your new ride. 2003 Aston Martin Vanquish 2dr Car 2dr Coupe (only 21930 miles)

Is the OEM tune that conservative? I've never seen those kinds of gains via tuning on a "stock" engine.

No issues.

Depends on the vehicle and parts. I don't know what kind of vehicle you have but I'm guessing at that price, he's buying a hub assembly, which isn't out of line for OEM parts. Of course is that the price for just the parts or does that include labor as well?

What Mazda? Little Mazda?? Had to find something in a hurry, wanted a manual, a wagon (for junior and audio), had to get something inexpensive, and got good mileage. Would have loved an A4 Avant, but was not in the cards, and the upkeep is more then I want at the moment. Long story short, searched everything and anything for a 100 mile radius, and this was flat out the best deal and even talked the guy down some, not to mention the car is in great shape and passed the insanely tough MD inspection easy. Protege5? Yes. Just put another hour in polishing it. Still working on the hood, front quarter panels are almost there. Nice! I looked at those several times. Drove a turbo charged one and really liked it. Hell, every Mazda I've ever driven has been a pretty fun ride, of course they've all been turbocharged save for an old 85 RX-7. Make sure you post pics! Hoping it's black.

Here we go again.

I change brake fluid about every 10K. This is the most over-looked fluid by far. I would exhaust all other options before switching to hydro-boost. What "tool" do you use? A wrench to open/close the bleeder valves, and a piece of clear hose connected to an old soda bottle. I'm old-fashioned.

What Mazda? Little Mazda?? Had to find something in a hurry, wanted a manual, a wagon (for junior and audio), had to get something inexpensive, and got good mileage. Would have loved an A4 Avant, but was not in the cards, and the upkeep is more then I want at the moment. Long story short, searched everything and anything for a 100 mile radius, and this was flat out the best deal and even talked the guy down some, not to mention the car is in great shape and passed the insanely tough MD inspection easy. Protege?

What Mazda?

It wouldn't increase the efficiency of the driver, just it's cooling capacity. It would still be generating just as much heat and wasting just as much power, but with increased cooling.

Your power-antenna lead is blue while the remote turn-on is blue/white.

That's a no-brainer. . You hooked the power antenna lead up for the remote turn-on instead. When you switch to a source different from the tuner, it switches the antenna lead off and likewise, your amplifier. Switch the leads and you should be good. The unit should have a separate wire for amplification control.

Even if Irragi wasn't a shitty product, the only way you can "recase" is if you have the same series of alt, so it's pointless if you go to a totally different vehicle. Of course he probably just builds a new alt for whatever you need and takes yours back and refurbs it and sells it as new, so he's still making money. Just an FYI, with all new parts, it only takes roughly $20-50 to build a HO alt with off-the-shelf parts like many manufacturers do.

That could be deemed a vioaltion of the TOS, but that's just so not right, I can't fault you for that.

Nick, with his experience, your father should have known better than to tighten that nut with an impact. You actually have to set a pre-load on it, by tightening to a certain amount of drag, then loosening, the tightening again and specific amount.

Go fast mods or audio mods?

YOu know, I tried kempo-jutso for several months about 10 years ago, but just could not get into it.