Tirefryr

5V is the MAX you're going to get and you'll probably never see that anyways. If you are truly concerned about it, and it's a proven fact one way or the other, then you need a different deck or amplifier(s).

I did enjoy driving around and through WV though.

Spent my week in Kentucky, West Virginia and North Carolina; three places that I do not belong.

It is.

You have an application problem. I'd venture to say you may have a phasing issue as well. Make certain the front and rear waves of the speakers never meet. Make sure the drivers are sealed as best they can be. Do NOT use the EQs on the amplifiers at all. FIx the application issues, and then adjust your amplifiers,

You can not underpower a driver. I don't know where this myth even started. You can cause damage if the small amplifier is driven into clipping though, but to what extent requires some time consuming measurements. Basically the clipping heats the coil. Too much heat and you have a failure point. If the coil can handle the heat and dissipate it, then it's a non-issue. You can only hurt a driver if you take it beyond it's thermal or mechanical limits.

I know some of you have played with them, but does anyone have any input on the Evils 6.5s in-door? I'm just looking for shit to drop in the place of the factory stuff. I'll need to construct baffles, but that's simple. No deadening or anything. Just using the factory weather seal in place. . . . Well, if it's still there. I guess I should remove the door panels and check.

Funny side note, when I bought the car, it had an enclosure in the trunk with some old Kappas in it. They were green cones and I remember having a set of those in HS. I think they were the first Kappa subs actually. So I got to talking to the dude and he told me he was MECP certified and this car used to be his demo vehicle. Check the pictures below for the most professional installation.

Matt, I'm no beast. It you can unplug some wires and remove bolts, you can easily swap an engine. The chassis were nearly all the same in the Mustangs from 1979-2004. I call them the modern day Beetle. There's nothing to them really. Very simple and crude actually, but fun to beat the snot out of and that's what I plan on doing. I got the trans separated and cleaned today. Took off everything else I need to swap over and when removing the oil pan, I found pieces of the timing chain guides which is what I thought was the problem. I'll know more once I teardown, but I don't plan on doing that until this thing is up and running.

I tell you what, you got me thinking with the ceramic now. Different product, but hydrophobic, so. . . I picked up some of that Rustoleum Never Wet at the dollar store. I'm going to coat my engine bay and the engine itself. Hopefully it will hold up well. Hard to resist for only $1.

One of these days I'll have a garage again.

Yep, you need a new amp. Sorry man!

That's exactly what it would do, but it would come back on everytime I disconnected, then re-connected power. Of course it would go right back into protect mode after a couple minutes. The guy who repaired it said I damaged the protection circuitry. HE bypassed this somehow and I used the amplifier for many years without issue after that.

I'm curious about the buildhouse. The FAQ page states all drivers are built in the USA, but the Brahma's page makes no mention of it's build, yet both the Shiva and Tempest information pages proudly state they are built in the US. The last I knew, there was only one buildouse that was licensed to produce XBL^2 and it is in China. . . . Or has the patent expired?

Many years ago I had an Orion that would do the same thing. I ran it in an under-voltage situation, blew some fuses, and after that it just never functioned properly; very similar to what your amp is doing now.

Teal '93. Sweet car!

If it's a '93 and red it's a single stage paint. If it's a '94, it should be base/clear. Hoping it's a 93. I LOVE the Fox Cobras!

Damn!

I was just asking because you typed of venting and bandpass enclosures both of which would be nealry 1 or more cubes. If you have that much space, you have space for a 10 or 12 which is a massive step up in cone area. Hell one twelve is probably more than a pair of 8s in the same space.

Nope, I just realize there's no information out there, so you'll have to contact Ampere directly.

Your best bet is to contact Ampere. Good luck!

Are you stuck on the 8" purely due to size constraints? Since no specs are available for this driver (I wish companies would take note, and NOT put out a product without the information necessary to provide and informed purchase decision) it's impossible to provide even a generalization on a proper application, so I'm sorry to inform you, but nobody is able to help other than the manufacturer as they will be the ONLY people who know anything about their product's performance.

Shit, mine came on 3 weeks ago. Woke up and it was 68 in the house. WAY too cold for me.

I feel for you. Pouring one out for you right now.