Tirefryr

That should be the 6 speed. Those are pretty good actually. Worth a junkyard swap if you want to chance it.

I'm going to guess it's a CVT.

What vehicle? The AWD units are pretty good actually. They beef them up quite a bit.

Profilin'!

If it's FWD, then you're SOL. Ford's FWD transmissions are the biggest pieces of shit. Their RWD transmissions are tough as nails though. I've had several where a line blew, they were run pretty much dry, and a fluid fill fixed them up.

I got a 53K engine out of a Lincoln I'm throwing in it. Just going to be stock spec, nothing special. Exhaust and a shifter and just going to beat on it like a Mustang should be.

The engine is seized, so I'm doing a swap. I have several 4.6s in the barn.

A couple hours in and halfway to out.

Gotta love an amp with a REAL heatsink!

Do you have a Dollar Tree store nearby? I go there for fiberglass and paint supplies. They have graduated cylinders, measuring cups and spoons, and occasionally some graduated plastic paint containers as well. Everything is $1, so super cheap.

Those are sweet, but have you done any testing on heat retention with the paint versus anodizing?

Neal, what's your email address?

You know, I like new cars, but damn, they all look way too similar.

And WTF is this?!

I LOVE my black girls!

There's another black girl in my driveway.

You're going to laugh at me, but check out the Acadia Denali and the XT5 too.

That thing is UGLY, and NO, you won't.

Of course, the wife could be also considered a vacuum unit, or the wife should be OPERATING the vacuum. It all sounds good!

WERD!

Your method is still flawed. The bleeder screws have threads that even when mechanically sealed can leak air. As soon as that pedal comes back up, that piston retracts and guess what displaces the fluid. . . .

You don't need the computer. The ABS pump will bleed air on it's own. You just need to find a nice parking lot or empty road and get up some speed and slam on the brakes several times. This will engage the pump and it will bleed the air on it's own.

You're bleeding incorrectly. Every time that pedal comes up in this scenario, you're pulling air into the system. You need to pump the brakes until hard, hold the pedal, and have your helper open the bleeder valve until your foot goes to the floor. Quickly close the valve and repeat the process. Find the proper procedure for your particular vehicle. They don't always go from furthest to closest, so you can easily introduce air, or not remove the air.

Tight? On brakes? I don't understand. Mushy or soft pedal? How many miles are on the car? I change brake fluid every 10K and use a good synthetic fluid. Brake fluid readily absorbs water, and it can and will do so at any time. Same with air. When decompressing the calipers, it is easy to introduce air into the system. I would get some good fluid and flush it all. Bleeding I do the old-fashioned way. It's simple and it works.

I don't care about snow; it's the cold that kills me. Unfortunately, the cold is a catalyst for the snow.