Tirefryr

Well damn. I need another one to store at my parent's house.

How much do you want for it?

I don't vote because I don't have faith in any politician. They are the problem. Nothing more than greedy business men to help other businessmen. All they are worried about is lining their pockets. The give not a shit about the country, nor the public unless they stand to gain something. This country has long been a dumping ground for shit. Literally.

3dB is the minimum that the average human can discern a difference between. ie if you have better than average or well trained ears you can hear better, but not orders of magnitude better If you had a lot of time in between, then no there would be no perceived difference even in a 3dB shift Way to fuck up one worthless thread Sean!

I'm sure you could take it to a shop and have it done. If you have an air compressor and a die grinder, you could do it yourself, provided you were able to get the springs free from the struts. There are several CV/GM forums out there that would have all the answers you need. One especially good place is www.mercurymarauder.net. While they cater to the MM, there is a sub-forum on there for the P-71 and many of the members have them anyways.

All those do is put tension on the springs. Stupid idea for lowering a car. I'd like to smack the asshat who made those. Best way is to replace the springs. Second best way is to cut coils, but then you compromise the spring rate. If it was me, I'd cut the springs first and if the ride/handling suffered, then I'd look into lowering springs.

Scratch that. Just looked behind me and the manual I have is for the DEQ.

Didn't realize you had one. Ryan's ftw. Do you run yours with a hot input and if so how do you attenuate/control the output? I am curious as to the available filters in particular for the low end. Reason being is that it has enough inputs and channels to potentially do a few things for me. 1) Taper and control the sub response in my living room (1ch) 2) Cross some bass bins for the Maggies or 1) Taper and control the sub response in my living room (1ch) 2)Taper and control the sub response in my future home theater room(1ch) or 1) Taper and control the sub response in my living room (1ch) 2) Act as an active crossover for prototype purposes before building passives and 1) Give me a sub output on my receiver which currently has one but it's blown. Conveniently though there are external amplifier outputs for which I'd plug the DCX into. So with those goals in mind do you see any reason why it wouldn't work? Also, curious what sort of options there are for the equalization and if it has notch capability. *I suppose I should download the software and play with it, but I haven't built my sub yet nor have I measured my room so I am not even sure what I "need" I was using it in-car, so I won't be of much help. It was so long ago, I really don't remember all the features. There was a huge post on DIYMA about the unit and NP really laid everything out there on the table. I still have the user's manual downstairs though. As far as filters, I was running 24dB on the sub and IIRC it went up to 60. You could control level in/out with 3-way stereo or 4-way mono.

Never had any noise with mine.

If you're competing then the definition changes per judges. If you're just buying it to listen to music how you want to, then it's definition is whatever sounds good to you.

New PUs are cheap though. They're practically giving some of them away. One Ford dealer up here has a Foose F-150 with a sticker price of $57K, but they're trying to move it at $32K. It's been there for a little over a year.

Here you go right here. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scripts/rightnow.cfg/php.exe/enduser/fattach_get.php?p_sid=NL1SuRCj&p_tbl=9&p_id=388&p_created=1084382485

Pull the bottom cover off and it should be labeled on the board. If not, you can easily distinguish it by the traces. IIRC, the power connections were in the middle flanked on either side by the speaker connections.

Linky??? I need a new one as well.

ALL stock HUs, no matter the make have some sort of attenuation build in as volume increases. It will cut the bass level. The only possible way to avoid this is if the unit had a factory subwoofer as most will not cut the level on this, but I have seen it done on cars from the 90s, so it may still be practice. Try the LOC and if it's a problem, you know you'll need to go with another implementation device.

sadly i wish i knew alot more about the electrician craft It's SO easy. Really. Get online and get an Ugly's book and you'll have pretty much all the info you'll ever need aside from code compliance. The only confusing part is 3 phase WYE and DELTA wiring, but you get used to that really quick. If you're handy with math, you can be an electrician.

Fuck this stupid ass bitch. I'm so sick of everything being one-sided. WTF is a relationship in which only one person does anything.

The 4V swap is more trouble than it's worth. Get on some Mustang, CV, Lincoln, T-bird/Cougar, Explorer/Mountaineer, or F150 forums and start browsing the classifieds. I see them anywhere from $100-$1500 depending on miles and build. Personally, I'd go for the '02 later Mountaineer or Explorer 2V as they use the aluminum block. Why not save 75lbs while you're at it. Just be careful with what you're looking at as Romeo blocks used a 6 bolt crank, while the Windsor blocks used 8 bolts like the Cobra and Mach 1. Being as your car is an '01, it could be supplied with either or. Of course if you do get a different one, all you'd need to change is a flex plate.

I love my resistance soldering station. No torches for me.

You won't notice a difference unless you double the power, so don't be so quick to start throwing more at it.

What did the plugs look like? IN all honesty, you've gotten about twice its useful life out of it anyhow. NOw, you can easily find these engine for next to nothing. Hell you can eve move up to a 3V with nothing more than a different TB and cable and a new tune. Don't send it to the scrap pile yet!

Not always. We don't need to get technical, he is wiring batteries together. What I said is true in this case. Yes, we do need to get technical. You made a blanket statement. It could be interpreted by other viewers of the thread or the OP as " you always fuse for the wire and nothing else," and the next time they need to fuse something that requires otherwise, they end up with a broken piece of equipment. Did I say that? Did I say you said that? Your statement can be interpreted a number of ways. I was simply clearing it up for him, or any others who may view this thread in the future. It's all about having the right info all the time.

Not always. We don't need to get technical, he is wiring batteries together. What I said is true in this case. Yes, we do need to get technical. You made a blanket statement. It could be interpreted by other viewers of the thread or the OP as " you always fuse for the wire and nothing else," and the next time they need to fuse something that requires otherwise, they end up with a broken piece of equipment.

Use a plastic paint. They have flew additives for this reason.

Not always.