Tirefryr

Also, BTW, I registered to vote last week. First time ever!

And not to get political, but I work with a guy who does nothing but bash Trump and praise Obama. He tells me how informed he is and how he does his research and knows what to believe. The day of the Florida shooting, he showed me an article on some website how Trump signed into law a bill that made it easier for metally ill people to buy guns. Well, being me, I decided to do some homework and there is a lovely site Congress.gov where you can read ANY and EVERY bill, measure, law, etc, ever enacted and brought to fruition. There are word for word transcripts available. On this certain bill, there are 21 pages and I've spent the past 3 days reading through the entire thing and well, wouldn't you know it, but the media is not being truthful about this bill in any sort of way. Hmm.

Not now, but FOREVER!

This should be outlawed! Look at how dangerous that is! Everyone is going to die if you buy that!

A lot has been said, but don't forget about connections. Poor connections are the number one source of heat due to increased resistance. This can be as simple as a loose screw, poorly crimped terminal, or a bad solder joint. Always use the proper tools and techniques and re-check your connections often. Keep in mind, you have so many dissimilar metals and this is THE recipe for corrosion.

You'll be fine. I personally like to double Xmech just to be sure.

Do NOT use the Auras in the door. They absolutely need a vented enclosure and a rather large one at that. If you could fashion an aperiodic membrane, it could work, but running them in your door will require a steep and high crossover point of at least 75Hz depending on your power. The cone is also wafer thin, and not what you would want to run in an auto door for any prolonged time. They make great home drivers, REALLY good monitors actually, but are not at all suited for the automotive environment.

You could have cancellation issues, but you will only be able to find this out via measurements. The issue here is once you load the enclosure and driver into the vehicle, the cabin becomes another air spring on the driver. When you open a window or door, the pressure is reduced or relieved and the driver can move further, which means more air is excited which means more boom boom. Some systems are just so ridiculous, that they overcome this affect with sheer power. It's akin to overcoming speed limited drag by increasing power.

An even more interested fact, you can not dry FR textiles over 120degrees F. It degrades the fabric, even though it can withstand thousands from molten metals. Wrap your head around that.

I would never wash that article in a top loader, in fact, nobody ever should, but alas, there are some ignorant and stupid people out there. What were they doing to them. I know it doesn't compare to a dry cleaning business, but when I was at you know where, we had accounts that required tar wash and the formulas are designed to clean the textile and the machine at the same time. Shop towels were the worst! As long as our chemical injection and softening system was functioning properly, there was no problem removing tar with no damage to the textiles or machinery. We even had some steel and aluminum accounts which required molten metals to be removed from FR fibers. I don't know the science behind it, but when the metal meets the textile, the heat forms a barrier to keep the metal from getting through the FR fiber which also enables it to be laundered and removed. Pretty wicked shit, but if you launder it incorrectly, that FR fiber turns into kindling instead.

I can't say without actually working on your specific unit itself. Some of them are very easy to rip apart and access. Some of them have separate components that are solid state and not serviceable. You'll just have to play with it, or Google for some help on your specific model.

Of course, but to what extent? I'm assuming he's not washing his shirts every single day. Once a week should last for several years, especially given the quality of shirts I'm sure the two of you are buying. Not exactly off the rack Jos. A Bank shit I buy.

This I can see, but only for competition, or showing off. Granted, extra cone control in the passband will help with "musicality", but I don't see how people can define sub bass at these ridiculous levels as musical. It's just mind boggling. Literally. It's akin to these high horsepower "street cars." Sure you can have a vehicle that puts gobs of power to the tires, but you're not driving at that power level for any sustained amount of time. If you are, you're not on the street, or your Ken Block.

Technically, every enclosure becomes a "bandpass" application when loaded into a vehicle, as you have another air chamber acting on the front of the driver, and if vented, it's also acting on the vent. In the case of the blowthrough, the blowthrough itself, if not large enough, needs to be treat as a vent. You either need measurement equipment, or trial and error to find what will work "best."

I use nothing but a top loading machine. I have never worn out any clothes through laundering. Something in your process is wrong. I have dealt with this my entire life, and ironically most of all in the laundry business. The machine is stupid. It only does what you tell it to do. Most often (the damn human condition)we are quick to blame the machine when it's most likely operator error.

Unfortunately they can't build them as beefy as commercial machines.

Placement can be anywhere as long as cancellation will not come into effect. Having a variable phase switch usually alleviates this problem, but not always. As for the bracing, you can most definitely do it on the outside. You don't even have to do full sheets. You just see everyone do it internally as it's generally preferred aesthetically.

Guarantee it's a manual knob and you are on the right track. Obviously you've experienced this before.

Front loaders are NOT better. You've fallen for marketing. Top loaders clean better and have less load on all moving parts. They simply last longer. Ask any appliance repair technician. The ONLY thing the front loaders are better at is being quiet. As for the issue you are having, it sounds like the contacts on the control knob timer are sticking. Push it in, turn it, and pull it out a few times, and/or physically bump it through to the next sequence. This is a very common issue on these machines when they reach 15-20 years old, which by the way and front loader will never reach without needing major repair. Also, if you have no movement on the agitator, check the clutch legs and gear. These are either right on top or under the agitator and they've been made with plastic since the 70s. Nearly all are the same, but some do vary.

Why the bandpass? It poses no need. It was simply an application as a mechanical crossover. You can accomplish your goals with the common vented enclosure.

Star Wars, Transformers, Cheech and Chong, Super Troopers, anything with Jason Statham, Predator, Cars 1, Wall E, Big Hero 6, etc. . .

My feelings are 100% the other way.

That's the problem I was having with the Ryobis.

Go test out the Ryobi's chuck and compare it to others. I guarantee you won't buy it simply for that reason alone.

I used to be a Hilti and Bosch snob myself. I purchased a Ridgid set because I was sick of replacing batteries and Ridgid has a lifetime warranty on theirs. My $200 drill and impact kit gets constant abuse, and never misses a lick. I am still on the original batteries 2 years later. My other tools would eat batteries every 5-6 months, so I will be buying Ridgid from here on out. The owner of my company recently invested in a new Ridgid table say and compound miter saw as well, and I am duly impressed with their power tools as well.