Tirefryr

Totally different animal, built in small numbers. Your sales experience should make this easy to understand. If you were an automobile manufacturer and you couldn't make an engine that was efficient, and reliable (think warranty work here and inevitably reputation), would you do it?

The 4 stroke hasn't even been nearly perfected yet. The Mercedes F1 team just last year reached 50% thermal efficiency from their engines. This is unheard of and never been done before. Their nearest competitors are in the low 40% range. Compare this to commercial vehicles which are a little less than half and you see how far off we are. Hell, I'm seeing some very ingenious designs coming around lately. I saw an engine not to look ago that was actually pre-igniting the mixture. This is just blasphemous to the normal train of thought in regards to the internal combustion engine. Since the dawn of the engine, the goal has been to eliminate pre-ignition. It's destructive in nature, but somehow, engineers are now using it advantageously.

It just won't work to scale. Smaller engines and scales are fine, such as powersports and small engine applications. If someone could make the two stroke work properly as a 4 stroke does, then it would be in production. Just from a mechanical standpoint, they should in theory be cheaper to produce, but this is in a hypothetical perfect world.

In terms of the 2 vs. 4 stroke it simply comes down to longevity equaling cost. The 2 stroke wears out quickly. There's no dedicated oiling system. It would never survive an application like an automobile. Some have actually tried, albeit on a small scale, limited production basis. It failed miserably. Some examples are still present, but attrition leads to scrap. Throw in the simple fact that the mechanicals are different and are difficult to scale up and keep performance and it leads to futility. No reliability, no feasibility, no sales.

It actually has a small exhaust leak at the turbo flange so it's not even building all the boost it should be. I've almost got all the bugs worked out of it though.

If they're uncoated polished aluminum, just pick a good wheel polish and have at it. That's the easiest way. When I had my Budniks, I would polish them every time I washed the car which was almost daily. you REALLY have to keep up on aluminum or just bite the bullet and get it clear coated. I suggest reading up on some of the detailing forums. There have been many advancements in coatings over the past 10 years, but some are very hard and take many many years to wear so if you don't get the exact finish you want on your wheels, then you seal them, you're kinda screwed until it wears or you have to chemically (which is sometimes not possible) or mechanically strip it which could cause even more damage. What I've always done is Mother's or Eagle one wheel polish followed by a good quality wax. That would last about a week, but I was a clean freak and wore the wax down quite quickly with wash after wash, and etching wheel cleaners. If you have any type of coating on the wheel, treat it like you would paint.

Cam cover gasket and plug seals. It puked oil EVERYWHERE.

Fucking Audi...

I'll never forget that thing. Saw it at the Cavalcade of Wheels show at Notre Dame way back when. It had the massive red surfboard Terminator amps and Wayne was there doing PR. I swear that guy can see sound waves.

They stopped evolving the sold out to Pyramid. Actually, Pyramid was mid quality stuff back then too. They had some shitty lines, but some good quality stuff as well.

I gotta get up there when it gets warmer and see your toys! Hope the fam is well!

Believe it or not, but Pyle was an upper echelon brand.

Hell, I remember when Hart came out with the first 1KW rated subs. They had to run 4 amps per driver to get the thing to move. Power was difficult to make and expensive back then too. A lot of great drivers were nearly 3% efficient though, so low power worked well.

That's their original logo and the red surround drivers lasted into the early 90s right before the Optidrives came out, so late 80s to early 90s. They did a Cadillac hearse like the Ghosbuster car as a demo vehicle and it was loaded with those drivers. That was the first manufacturer's car I ever heard and it was incredibly loud way back then. Shortly after that MTX had a crazy Astro Van when the Road Thunder Pros came out and it used the same red surrounds. I miss those cars with just a massive sealed wall of subwoofers. They were all unbearably loud, but SO musical. Nothing today compares to them. Nothing.

I have to work in NW Chicago tomorrow. Fuck that.

Those generate their own heat.

Most likely the time delay for the fan. Definitely NOT 24V, you would not have felt anything really.

You need a larger battery. HO alts are great, but they cannot provide instantaneous current like a battery or capacitor, and virtually no 12V capacitor will work properly anyways, so yeah. You NEED to be able to measure voltage. That's the only way you will be able to get this sorted out properly.

I did my taxes today and for the first time ever I owe Federal. I don't know what has changed and I don't have time to go over the tax codes, but something is suspect. What makes it even worse is my company is so small, I cannot E-file. I don't have a clue what the company size has to do with it, but it's absurd to me.

I was actually beginning to tolerate the winter. It started snowing on Christmas eve and didn't stop until 2 weeks ago. Up until 2 Mondays ago, we had 40+ inches of snow, and the temps were steady. Cold as fuck, but steady. In 4 days, all that shit melted and it was 50 degrees out. The very next day it was single digits and whiteout conditions. The snow continued for another week exactly with the cold temps, and suddenly Friday afternoon, it jumped up 30 degrees, the sun came out, and now today, we have no more snow, and it's supposed to be up into the 50s tomorrow. THIS is the shit I hate. I get my body prepped for winter and winter turns to spring, then to winter, then to spring, then to winter, then early summer. FUCK!

Well that's going to be disappointing later this evening.

Your can run them separate and run the gains separate easily. People get too caught up in some things. Use your ear, or if you are intent on using a volt meter to "gain match," simply use a test tone and match them that way. BTW, have you contacted Jacob? I know he's blown up in recent years, but you used to be able to get him on the phone and he'd answer your question(s) right then and there.

All my shit came in for my little project today. The cheap Chinese stuff I bought is definitively Chinese, but damn, I can't complain on the price. The only thing I have beef with is the in-wall speakers I bought from MCM. I figured I could unscrew the speakers from the in-wall mount and just mount them to the enclosure, but no, they use the entire mount as the actual speaker frame.

I want to build one!