Tirefryr

Koo! Let us know how you feel.

3XL t-shirts and 1 Large button up. I take it these are the bowling type shirts?

Thanks man. I think I'm gonna stick with the Nextels and Neo3s.

I found it funny.

Figured I'd post some stuff up seeing as how it has been a hot topic as of late. The biggest problem with rewinding a stock alternator is the fact that most winders do nothing more than rewind the stator for additional output. This does nothing but increase upper RPM output and decreases the cut-in RPM. This is the RPM in which the alternator begins charging. This can be controlled with a lower cut-in regulator, but that is just a band-aid. The alternator will still produce nothing more than stock output at a low RPM. When looking for a GOOD unit, make sure to ask the manufacturer how the alternator was built. You want to look for one that has had a rewound rotor as well. This will increase the voltage in the AC wave during low RPM in conjunction with the rewound stator. It allows for a lower cut-in and greater output in the lower RPM levels. It also allows you to rotate the alternator at proper speeds alleviating the need for a smaller pulley (another band-aid to assist with a lower cut-in). The rectifier and regulator: Another shortcut used by some manufacturers is using a stock or replacement equivalent rectifier and regulator. The aftermarket for replacement parts for alternators is just as vast as the car audio market and there is NO shortage of high quality parts and supplies for these units which are specifically designed to handle high output and demanding loads. Your main focus here should be a rectifier that will cool efficiently and has higher amperage diodes. Some rectifiers will have an Avalanche type diode. This is far superior to a normal diode in terms of voltage spikes. When the alternator is under a full or heavy load and suddenly the load is decreased, this will cause a voltage spike as the alternator is still trying to supply that high voltage and current demand, even though it has been suddenly removed. Avalanche diodes handle these spikes better than conventional diodes. As for the regulator, you want something to keep your voltage stable and quite high. Voltage loss will occur no matter what. Try to find something that will regulate to 14.9 and no higher. As the engine warms up and the alternator does more work, more heat is generated. A high quality, purpose-built regulator will handle this with no problem. One drawback is many cars are now being switched to a computer controlled regulating system. It's becoming more and more common and the only way to change it is through tuning. The plus side to this, is you take the heat away from the internal regulator and the computer is more efficient at regulation versus the standard solid-state internal regulator. Now, obviously, the best alternatives would be external rectifiers and regulators, but these are expensive, hard to implement, and can take up space that is already in short supply. IF you're looking into external regulation and rectification, do your homework and make sure you can implement the components before buying, and make sure they will interface with your ignition and electrical system. Regulators may look the same, but electronically, they don't all function the same. Bearings, IMO are the weakest point of the alternator. MAny builders are using cheap bearings. AVOID THIS!!! A good quality bearing will hold up to heat, vibration and harmonics. The alternator is spinning at a very high RPM, sometimes three times the engine speed and a good quality bearing is a necessity. The enemy in the whole situation is HEAT. YOu want to remove, or keep out as much as possible. MAny newer units have internal fans which are part of the rotor assembly. Aftermarket units may have a different fan style which will aid in cooling. This is a good feature to look for. With an external fan, your choices are pretty much limited to a stock fan as there are not many alternatives on the market. IF you have the time, skill and resources, I suggest a forced cooling system for the alternator. This is very common on Bosch and VAleo units on BMW and is quite effective. Simply supply some fresh air from a fenderwell, or somewhere outside of the engine compartment can decrease temps dramatically and help prolong the alternator. The main thing is, to not buy cheap! IT may be a deal, but it won't last. You may spend $3-400 on a decent unit and have to replace it in 3-5 years, where if you spend a couple hundred more, you'll be able to double the lifespan of your alternator and increase durability.

Those are the only 2 companies that I have not heard one bad comment on.

Electrician again. Only temporary. When/if I hear about this apprenticeship, then I'm either going to go with that which means big $$$$$ and benefts, or if I don't get that, I'm going to go to Mobile Dynamics and then open up my own shop.

I start work on Monday.

Crazy foo! You still running the Xs or something else?

It says she's 15 years old!!!!!!!!!!!!!

There is a reason it costs $1400. That's an extreme duty alt, and for one to survive in the environment it's subjected to and last for 10+ years, you have to pay to have it built right. Keep in mind, that is cost and retail is probably another $1400. I've actually rebuilt a few that were upwards of $8000, but it's nothing you'll see. They came off a tank, but you get the idea. Now, I cannot speak for all, but I have had 2 alts from the companies most prevalent on the forums, and both were nothing more than a rewound stator. This will do nothing but increase the cut-in RPM and only provide for increased output at a higher RPM. THe more expensive and name brand alts are built properly with a higher output stator, custom wound rotor, high quality bearings, and high amperage diodes (avalanche being the best) and regulators. In the case of alts, it's what you don't see that makes it worth the money.

Gotta represent man, no matter what. Hell, I'd wear it even if it was pink. I don't care about shipping either, but the USPS flat rate boxes are great. You can stuff probably 5 shirts in a box.

That's actually an Ecoair unit. VERY expensive. I'll show you what COST is on it,so you can imagine what retail would be.

Damn, you fuckers were busy!

I hope you're joking. . . The rest of the car carries the clean European lines so well, that just messes it up IMO. It's like seeing a perfect 10, hot ass chick with a nasty beer-bellied drunken fool that weighs 3 times as much as her and has his ass crack hanging out. Might look better in person, but to me, it looks like your hatch needs a haircut.

Goodnight HoPPers!

Hey, hey, hey, Tom's back.

Rasheed is getting his ass handed to him. Shouldn't talk shit if you can't back it up. I thought they would pretty much walk all over everyone on their way to the finals. Not so huh?

I can guarantee they are.

HA! I just fucked the woman. . . In THE ASS! She's such a freak!

Is there going to be anyone there who can bench an amp? I'd like to see what this JBL can REALLY do.

Paulie, I'm in SB BTW. Little too far North to be making a trek to the Haute.

those look sweet they piqued my intrest as well I had a set of Pioneer components bask in H.S and they were top of the line back then. Have no idea what they were, but I remembered being awed by them. May be the fact that they were my very first component set, but I was doing some Pioneer research and came across these, so I figured if I could get someone to confirm they sound at least half-way decent, I'll pick them up. Damn thing is, only place I can find them online is Ike.

If you are looking for a cheap alt, that's exactly what you'll get. People don't want to pay the money to have one built PROPERLY. Eldo's on to something there with the Stinger.

Still raining here. Was nice as hell the entire time I was being interviewed and at the clinic. As soon as I got home to work on some stuff, thunderstorms. . . .