Tirefryr

Now you're ready for re-assembly. The new rectifier simply drops in place, but it will have a different means of connection to the stator leads. Instead of the stupid little tabs, it will have some drop down leads that actually surround the wire. You will want to crimp these down on the stator leads and solder them on. Then you can replace the rear frame, and re-install the 3 screws.

Next step is to remove the REAR end frame. This is the back of the alternator. To do this, simply take a hammer and solidly hit the 3 mounting ears you just removed the bolts from. Don't hit them too hard, but enough to remove the rear piece without damage. It may seem like it's not coming off, but it will. There is tension on it from the bearing slides. Once it is removed, you'll have access to the rectifier and stator. There are 6 stator leads soldered to the rectifier. YOu'll have to heat these up and remove the solder by means of a de-soldering wick, pump, or the easy way. Take an air gun and blow the solder off as you heat it up. Now to remove the rectifier, you have to bend the little tabs back that are making contact with the stator leads. Once that is done, you can simply put a flathead screwdriver between the rectifer and the drive end frame and work your way around gently prying it up.

Notice mine only has 3 screws in it. This is for demonstration purposes only, so I half-assed it. Mine is already in pieces.

Next is to remove the screws holding the regulator on. You'll have 4 outer screws, one screw that says, "ground here to test," and one screw which has a small plastic cover on it. You only need to remove the 4 outermost screws. A T-20 Torx bit or driver gets the job done. After the screws are out, simply lift the regulator out.

Okay, first thing to do is take a photo of the alt so you know the proper "clocking." This is not NECESSAry, but a good habbit. In Your case, you're not going to remove the stator, so you don't really have to worry about it. I like to take a simpl punch and make a mark on either end frame, that way when re-assembling, I simply have to line the dots up and my clocking is done. Here, you can see the dots.

Very nice!

Give me a few minutes and I'll take some photos and write something up.

You won't be able to get them without jumping through hoops and spending an arm and leg. I'll call my suppliers tomorrow and get you a quote, but when I ordered mine, it was something like $18. I know it was less than $20.

It's a simple process if you have tools. The most necessary would be a T20 Torx driver and at LEAST a 100 watt soldering iron. I can tell you everything you need to do right here.

that is surprising, my dad's truck just got a new battery for the first time in like 7 years, we were amazed the old one lasted that long Mine car didn't start last night, so I checked the numbering on my battery and low and behold it was the original--from 1991! I'd buy another one! Hell, I'd kill to have a batt last half as long.

ME? I rebuild alts for a living. ALong with starters, water pumps, drive axles, smaller AC and DC motors and Idlers.

The HD reg is going to give you a slight boost in voltage. About half a volt. The rectifier is going to do better with heat and sudden spikes due to the amperage and the fact that it uses avalanche diodes instead of normal diodes. I'm using both parts in my 3G 200 amp build. I'm also toying with the idea of external regulator and dual external recitifers, but I'm not sure exactly what to go with. IF I compete, I'm going to probably run 350 amps and switch to a Delco alt for ease of repair and they're cheaper.

Happy BERFDAY Jim!

Koo.

Ugliness rules.

I found out there are quite a few dbDrag and IASCA comps close to me. That is probably the route I'm going as I want to keep drive time to less than 2 hours and I'm really digging the BassRace.

Steve, just do a search on Ebay for Nitrile gloves. I'm not sure if the place I bought them from sells them all the time.

Let me know if you have any problems with that and how it does at idle. I notice they have a standard regulator on there and I'm guessing the recitifier is as well. I can upgrade those to the HD units for you for about $20. The rectifier uses higher amp avalanche diode and drop down leads and the regulator is set at 14.9 with special heat and vibration compounds hold the SS electronics.

What the hell is that?

NO PICS???????????????!!!!!!!!!!! You better post some soon, or you're banned!

Goodnight.

Goodnight.

Damn, the only sanctioning body that has any events near me is MECA and even the closest one is over 2 hours away.

dBDrag.

Ebay.