Tirefryr

That's what we're here for.

It's koo. Been there before. Okay, stereo means 2 channels, left and right. When you bridge an amp, you are basically summing the left and right channels to make one channel (mono). This is common practice when using a 2 channel amp to drive a subwoofer. Now, the drivers voice coils have a nominal impedance which is just like a measurement of resistance. In your case, the subwoofer has dual voice coils, each rated at 4 ohms. Now, you could either run each coil to each channel (left and right), or bridge the amp and use it as one channel, yet wire up the two coils on your sub to act as one. With this you can do one of two things; wire them up in series, or parallel. The series wiring scheme is your only option here as it will give you a safe load to use your amp in mono. Series will double the impedance, meaning that both your 4 ohm voicecoils will present an 8ohm nominal load to the amplifier. Running them in parallel will halve that and present the amp a 2 ohm load. A series wiring will have the positive of one coil connect to the negative of the other coil and the speaker wires from the amp will go from the positive to the open positive terminal on one voicecoil, and the negative from the amp to the negative of the other voicecoil. When wiring in parallel, they are all wired commonly to the same point, meaning the positives from either coil will both go to the positive on the amp and the negatives from either coil will go to the negative on the amp.

Nope. New, not used. I have a bungh of Potter&Brumfield 24V relays, but they're over 3" tall once plugged into the socket.

I had a buddy call me up a couple weeks ago saying his stuff only sounded half as loud after he transferred everything into his new car. So I get there and he's got the left RCA plugged into the amps left input, and the right RCA plugged into the amps output. Tool.

Yes, you can go to places that have "cheap" tools and get really good sets of C-clamps on the cheap. For a straight edge, I use a piece of 3/8" flat stock steel 50" in length, 2" wide. Gives you a good surface to clamp onto, and is thick enough that you don't have to worry too much about it bending easily or warping. Measure accordingly for your blade curf (blade thickness), and the distance away from your saw's base and place the straightedge there, clamp into place and you're ready to cut.

We're all nOObS!!! Forever learning my friend.

WTF?! I am very friendly. I explained it well.

Does your wiring of the subwoofer match the allowable impedance load of your amplifier. In other words, do you have the amp running bridged mono, stereo, etc, and how is it wired?

Brad, is that a dual 8 ohm driver?

The CVs a no go? It's for a friend. I was gonna try those Clarion 8s from Madisound, but they're sold out, and I can't find any anywhere else. I need something small that can fit in 1 cube or less and handle 300@4ohms.

Hey, my mind changes so much, it's really never worth letting the cat out of the bag.

It's not cheap. I haven't been able to find a good quality one for less than $6. Personally, I think that's a little on the high side, then add into the fact that they are rather bulky in comparison. Trying to keep this as cheap as possible.

What is this type R you speak of?? On a serious note, are you sure your amp you have now is not having an impedance problem with your current driver(s)?

A good tablesaw is a must for any good woodworker. The Skillsaw(I'm assuming you mean circular saw) will get you by as long as you get yourself a straightedge and some clamps for a guaranteed straight cut. My myself will rip everything first with the circular saw (only because I don't feel like fixing my table saw), then finish everything with the trusty router.

I need a sub or subs on the cheap, like $50 or less.

At my last job, we had this stuff that would eat pretty much anything, soap scum, calcium, lime, rust, etc, by simply spraying it on and letting it sit for 30 seconds, then washing it down the drain. Was 100% environmentally friendly too.

So ready to blow my car up today.

Shoot. What about IB? Any idea on new ride and system plans? Or is it a secret?

Hard pressed to find an alt without one anymore. Even the Bosch has the internal. Well, not exactly internal to the alt, but it's still attached to it. Just as with the Ford. The Valeos, actually, we never really have many problems with them.

No, it wasn't on a forum. I'd come across an article somewhere. Can you go into detail for me, or is it even feasible? Cheapest I'm finding any SPDT relays for is $2.99 and that's for cheap ones. I don't like cheap relays. Bad luck with them.

I am just now getting my Gateway notebook back from repair. The motherboard went out on it. Not even Gateway will service them. They don't even build them. Contracted out to someone else and put their name on it. I assume many companies do the same, but it took my buddy 4 months just to get a source for the motherboard. His company does work for Gateway and even at his price the damn thing was $400. So all in all, I spent $1100 on this damn computer and I must say, never again.

I remember reading about this somewhere, but I can no longer find the information. I'm wondering if any of the EEs we have can give me some insight as to the benefits other than cost and how to implement them into my system. This will mainly be used for control of alarm accessory channels. Thanks!

Hey, can you send me a photo of your alt? I'm curious as to if Ford is using their own alts over there or Bosch or Valeo.

what's the rest of the setup consist of? Any EQ in the headunit you have? Personally, it would be best to install everything and tune as much as you can before surrendering to the EQ. Don't use it unless you need it. As for good ones, pretty much flip a coin. There's a myriad available and as long as you stick with a quality brand, you should be fine.