Tirefryr

That's why I'll be paying close attention to your results... Since you've never used a machine before, I would not use your new black vehicle as your first attempt. You WILL fuck up and that's not the one to fuck up on. Don't you have a Saturn or something? Hell, go to a local junkyard and buy some panels for cheap to practice on.

Stupid Flex is $389. Otherwise I'd have one.The Griot is the budget winner. I just bought Menzerna compound...actually landed today. Excited to try it out on the Flex. Go to your local Napa. they have a Porter Cable for $159 with a trade-in on an old cordless tool.

15years ago, I'd agree. Now, I wouldn't be concerned. They cover everything up anyways.

Werd!

We are all adults here and act accordingly. Please do not bring the high school BS here.

Why would you clay glass? It's a waste of product. It's non-porous; there will only be surface contaminants. Save yourself a lot of time and some cash and buy some 0000 steel wool and some baby shampoo and distilled water in a sprayer. It's aquick, effective, abd removes everything without scratching.A long time ago i bought some aggressive glass clay. Been using it sincei also didnt know you could use steel wool on glass. I have 0000. Curious on the baby shampoo as well i normally just use sparkle You can use glass cleaner, but the baby shampoo is cheap. Get some from a dollar store and it will last you about 10 years. Add a couple drops to the spray bottle, fill with water, and voila. I used to do a lot of detailing as a side job and for the old man, so I like to use as little product and keep it cheap.

I use the cheap Meguiars gel. I buy one of those curved applicators to apply, then let it sit for a couple hours, then rub it into the tire which also removes the excess.That is what I was using too. I don't mind a "wet" look either however. I like low gloss. I so badly miss that low gloss Armor-All formula from about 15 years ago. Stuff was great!

The way I see it, the Mustang has become the new Mark. Big heavy powerful coupe, albeit without the luxury amenities. The Mustang should be a cheap lightweight toy to build in the aftermarket.

Why would you clay glass? It's a waste of product. It's non-porous; there will only be surface contaminants. Save yourself a lot of time and some cash and buy some 0000 steel wool and some baby shampoo and distilled water in a sprayer. It's aquick, effective, abd removes everything without scratching.

I use the cheap Meguiars gel. I buy one of those curved applicators to apply, then let it sit for a couple hours, then rub it into the tire which also removes the excess.

How did I miss this?! Happy Berfday homie! All late and shit.

My digestive system was fucked even without gluten, so I don't give a fuck anymore. I could do nothing to alleviate it, so why bother trying. .

I can't believe I'm drinking Coors Light.

2011 DIRT CHEAP.

Nope, I broke it the other day. Since you're looking at Escapes, I'll sell you one dirt cheap.

Because it probably has some other stupid output.No, it's the receiver side. You give it power, doesn't work. Give it ground, it doesn't work. Only otherthing I can think of is pulse. I even built a reversal rest at ground circuit and that didn't work. Is it anything like the Chevrolet's that need a special PAC adapter to get the correct signal? In that case I believe the correct signal was a pulse. I honestly have no idea. The manual just states to hook it up to the switched side of the ebrake switch. The switch on the Lincoln is just that, a switch. There's no electronics within it. You're open or closed. I'll have to do some research I guess.

Could be.

Because it probably has some other stupid output.No, it's the receiver side. You give it power, doesn't work. Give it ground, it doesn't work. Only otherthing I can think of is pulse. I even built a reversal rest at ground circuit and that didn't work.

I would assume 5 volts but WTF do I know? I am baffled by the ebrake trigger wire for my new HU. It's either switched to ground, or voltage, so why can't I get it to work?

You hit it on the head, but clay will indeed make the finish look better. You can use it to remove water spots, overspray, baked on bug guts, bird crap, tar, etc.

All transformers have a power supply going in whatever the case may be..."to step up or step down"..All will have a supply, but not a power supply. They have to have a current to achieve the magnetic field to feed the secondary source.. If It's alternating current that here is 60 cycles per second can achieve a great "step down or step up voltage" because of the magnetic field it creates through the winding's ..And a step down transformer for direct current has to have the appropriate resistors to create the magnetic field needed per ohm's law.. It does not cycle so it does not create the magnetic field like AC..Not even relative to what you posted. I'm done here.

All transformers have a power supply going in whatever the case may be..."to step up or step down".. All will have a supply, but not a power supply.

What I was getting at...I have done more of these then everybody combined in IHOP has had birthdays easy.http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/07427891 I knew what you meant. This is a simple multi-tap step-down transformer. For an AC to DC conversion, you need to rectify the waveform which would necessitate a power supply versus a transformer as you stated.

Single phase will read full line voltage between both lines, and half potential from line to ground/neutral. An AC to DC conversion will require a power supply, not just a transformer. All residential control voltages are AC. The only time you will see DC is if there are computerized controls, but the unit will have a power supply for this. Everything else will be AC with the step down transformer, or many just use 120 via the line to neutral.

No problem. I'll send ya a Yanks hat to wear to the game!