RAM_Designs

Thanks guys.

Gracias!

If you knew how many designs I've done on it you'd understand why.

This allowed me to get a little creative with the bracing(ok, maybe I was just getting bored). This is for a pair of Fi Audio BTL 18's in 10.25ft^3 tuned to 35hz with 180in^2 of port. I feel bad for the Explorer it's going in.

Thanks guys.

Fun box design right here for 502CEC at caraudio.com. Four Audiopipe TXX's in a dual chambered box, each 7ft^3 tuned to 34hz with 120in^2 worth of port. This will be going in the back of a Chevy Trailblazer...should be a fun build.

This will be going in the back seat area of an extended cab 2002 Ford Ranger. It's for two AudioQue HDC 12's in 4.5ft^3 tuned to 38hz with a 12.5"x5.25" port. Nothing too special, but should be loud as balls.

I would hope so with beastly subs like the TSNS.

A little dual 15" box for SoCalNoob at caraudio.com...this might tickle the nose hairs a little bit after it's crammed into an Eclipse.

Congrats to Stephan Colpaert. He's the winner of RAM Designs' Lucky Box Giveaway this time around(every 25th design is free). This is for dual 18" Fi Audio BTL N2's in 11.25ft^3 tuned to 34hz. Doubled up 3/4" material all around the box, and plenty of bracing to keep this thing rigid. This is going to be walled off in a 2005 Honda Accord...should be sick.

Holy crap, I didn't even notice that I left that out. Thanks for the heads up, it definitely needs to be there. Sending email now...

Dual 15" SEx's in 8ft^3 tuned to 33hz...going in a 1990 VW Corrado.

Four 12's would work better than trying to fit 2lbs of shit in a 1lb bag.

I like this motto.

The tuning frequency is where the port is going to be working the hardest, and where cone excursion should be the least. In an anechoic environment, the box is going to peak a few hz above the tuning frequency in most cases. Once you throw it into a vehicle all of that changes though...I peak at 57hz with a box tuned to 28hz because the cabin gain in my truck is a PITA. Box volume, port size/shape/length, sub placement, port placement, box placement in the vehicle, etc. all have an effect on how the sub will behave. Easy to understand explanations by the gif's. http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_5_2/cmilleressayporting.html

There is a threaded rod in the motor for supporting it when mounted horizontally. Indeed. I didn't include it in the design, but I gave him an idea of how to brace it in the email I sent...in case anyone was wondering why there wasn't anything back there to support it.

New box design for a 15" Ascendant Audio SMD going in the back of a Lexus RX300. This is for Jared Brewer, aka: rxdriver11 from the smd fourm.

Exactly what are you wanting to improve on?

I use the "square" tool and just drag from the end of the line over to the side of the box until in snaps into place for a perfect square. So really it's just pulling out two squares...but your way is still quicker, I'll try to train my mind to do that now.

That's odd that you're having that much of a problem with splitting the MDF. I predrill and use 1.625"(1 5/8") coarse thread drywall screws, and I've literally never split the MDF...even when screwing 2" from the corner.

Ah, good thinking. Thanks for the tip.

It's just the way I've always done it. Do you draw a 45° angle across the MDF on the inside port corner, then pull off of that? The way I do it really doesn't take hardly any time...maybe 30 seconds altogether.

Andrew at AMI Customs will be helping him with the build.

I use CamStudio...free and easy for me to use.