dbsupra

Well that is roughly 7 cubes gross. For the sa8s you will need around 76 in3 of port area. That should be plenty of room considering the sa8 only needs around .75 ft3 per sub. Download torres box calculator and play with the numbers.

I found a pic of one of the wood blocks on the back side so you can see what I did. This one is on the large side due to being a large gap of sheet metal on the bottom side. I used it to sandwich it together against existing sheet metal on each end and along the bottom.

Been busy at work, but slowly making some progress. Some CLD action and rough cut Doesn't look like much but a lot of work went into this. There are a lot of stuff in the way and deep ridges I had to deal with. Not easy trying to put a driver where it doesn't go. I hand cut and formed pieces of wood to fit in the ridges to fill up the gaps between the baffle ring and the door. Then I cut blocks of wood to go on the back side. So it is ring, wood, sheet metal, wood. There was like 2 small spots that were actually flat that I didn't have to fill any voids. I know, maybe I could have used bondo and glass, but I'm a wood guy. After that I sealed the edges with butyl rope and metal hvac tape. It is very solid. I have the spacer ring made, just need to round over the edges. Next I will cut the door panel to match and recover the door with the vinyl I picked up. Hopefully this weekend I'll make some more progress.

Have you checked phase, LPF and SSF? How did you set the gains?

Looks great swift! Thanks for the tip about the vinyl, I went to hobby lobby today and bought some. I needed something for the bottom half of my doors and it will work great. It was even on sale

Welcome. I can tell you the SA series isn't that impressive in a sealed enclosure. If you for sure want to run sealed I'd look at a different line. The E series does better sealed, but no personal experience with that line.

Why not run a small amp with speaker level inputs? Often you can find one that has auto sense so you don't even need a remote turn on.

Port tuning frequency plays a part in port area. What frequency are you tuning and don't forget changing the volume will change tuning as well.

Does anyone type full words anymore? N E 1 dun ths b 4 drives me insane. Maybe I'm just getting old. Anyway, if you already have an Optima is one thing, but I wouldn't buy a new one. I haven't had good luck with those batteries in over 6 years. Deka batteries are pretty good. You can get some rebadges for the $150 range. I really like the Diehard Platinums. They aren't cheap by any means, but they have the thickest mat than anyone else.

Do all the other buttons work?

Never worked with those subs so I had to look it up. Especially since the cuft you listed seems small for a ported 12. I found the manual and it actually lists it as 1.2 cuft recommended. That means you need 2.4 cuft net for enclosure volume. It also suggests using 2 3" ports. Then you will need to cut to length to tune it to the frequency you want. Here is an enclosure building program, a free download. It's what I always use. Play around with the measurements and ports to get the size you need that will fit in the space you have. https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=1e28f7d3956a626f&uc=1&id=1E28F7D3956A626F%21102

Thanks guys! I lifted up her skirt and took a pic of what I'm working with. The window rolls all the way down into the door, so I will still have to build it out some. I believe I can move the wiring out of the way. I just have to mind the window actuator. Will have to make quite a bit of room since the motor is nearly the size of the driver itself. For the panel to snap back on correctly I may have to back mount the baffle unless I want to use some thin stuff. I believe I can access it enough thru the middle of the door opening to back mount it. It may be my best bet to get a flat mating surface.

I was hoping you would chime in. Can't make spacer rings, the dash is in the way. Some kicks would be nice, but I'm tall with big feet. Not a lot of room. Here is a pic of your location, that's about what I had in mind as well. I think it will allow enough foot and leg room there. Oh, you can also see my super cool remote gain haha. So if I cut the metal to make room then make a baffle plate. Cut the panel to match and away I go? Do you think that would be better using the door cavity or would a pod be better? I do have a box of cld and mlv to go on as well.

I got some new midbass speakers and ready to mount them in the door. Problem is, there is very little depth due to the window frame directly behind the speaker mount. I had planned on making some door pods, since my panel is really flat with the pocket removed. Here is what I have to work with. Buddy told me- Hey! You have a large opening in the middle of the door. You can make a baffle, bolt it to the door, and be done! Yeah, that would be pretty easy but I think soundstage would be terrible. Here is a pic relative to postion. Am I wrong? I tried hooking up the driver and moving it around. Kinda hard to tell holding it with one hand and moving it around the door and only having one of them hooked up. I had planned to make a pod and mount it up towards the front. Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks! Yes that's why I got the MLV to go with it I know it is supposed to work as a system and wanted to be sure I installed it correctly.

This is a dumb question I'm sure. I've searched here and on the web and still haven't found an answer. Even looked at the Mazda install pics. I'm happy to have a big box here in front of me from a Mr Don. I've seen pics of the cod tiles installed on the outer door skin and other pics of it on the inner. By inner I am refering to where the door panel mounts. Which is correct? My goal is to block road noise and help improve the sound quality of my mids. I do have MLV to mount on as well. And I didi figure out where that goes lol. Thanks!

I don't know what you did. I put in 1 12 22mm xmax 31.5hz and got 36.24. And yes that is port area. Not to be confused with port area per square foot. That is the port area in relation to the enclosue size.

^ this. Also you can cut the outside piece to the sub outer diameter and the inner piece to the sub inner diameter to flush mount. Or if you want to flush mount with a double baffle on the sub mount as well you will need 3 pieces. 2 cut to the inner diameter and the outer cut to the outside diameter

4 4" ports is ludicrous. I used a single 6" aero on mine and worked great. I built a second enclosure with a slot port with similar PA and works great as well.

Sedona is their entry level. Black ice is their mid level. Power class is their high end. Phantom is their mini. I do know the black ice is based off the soundstream Rubicon.

Yes the proper way is xmax and tune frequency. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31

I vote sundown 1500. Love mine. Plus you can get one from db-r for a hell of a deal. Or if you wanted to hold out the new version 1500 should be out soon. On the less expensive side there is crescendo and hifonics.

Looks great! Good thing you didnt make it out mdf or you would need a fork lift to move it.

4" would work but at the expense of output and possibly port noise. I'm also not crazy about the sub and port orientation. I built a box for a single 12 and had a little over 5 inches from port to sub and had some issues with unloading. I would prefer a slot port on the same baffle as the sub with more port area. Something more along the lines of twice what you have lol.

And... It's been a while since an update. How are things going?