Fi Car Audio

Sent an email to you as well. Subs were sent out on Wednesday and Id figure that youd get them today or tomorrow. I will contact for payment details as well. Thanks, Scott

Sounds like a solid plan. Id have the port exit towards the front of things if you are firing it down as well. Having them load in the same area too far back as the subs will cause odd cancellations.

Ive always enjoyed the Dynacos. They got me started on a few different kt88 based amps after that. Simply dont have time to roll tubes or chase hum anymore

Like I say with all the subs I build... we stick to the RMS ratings

Figuring these are working a wee bit better Keep us posted on how they sound. Thanks, Scott

Yeah, that was a "fun" error there. When we had made the production run on the 8s we had 2 pallets... one magnetized and tested, and the other just off the line. Apparently one of our new guys packing had been pulling from both pallets. We had to go through 112 8s that were boxed and check them all. Found 14 that were not magnetized. The 8" is the only speaker that we currently manufacture without magnetizing it first. The benefit to the is is that any dust or cr@p will not get into the gap and stick, the disadvantage is that we cant test at several points along the build like we do with all other drivers. So, for all future runs of these, we will magnetize first so that we can check before the final top glue, then after it is dustcapped for full sweeps. For us if we send out an unmagnetized sub, it would mean that it had not seen any QC and wasnt tested at all... simply doesnt happen for any other driver size since every motor is magnetized before the build with the first QC/build list sticker applied then (our normal magnetizer coil is 10" ID so anything larger than an 8" wont fit) Glad no one else got them...

Emails to you

Got back with you via email... should be there tomorrow. Thanks, Scott

Chad is rolling along full steam with production for Epik. I cant wait until reviews start rolling out for them... they are amazing subs for the money. Nothing on the market comes close at that. Not too mention the Conquest absolutey murdering everything curently available (and costing several times as much)... I think he will sell more than a few of those As for the site, we have gone through 2 different companies making it. It has been more than a nightmare getting things going. And each time it becomes a ground up process with the new company as they find nothing salvageable from the last. While loosing a little $$$ on things so far, I have lost more than enough sleep and patience with it all. Current company is rolling along fine and is actually producing things on the stated schedule. Sorry for the delays with it all

A pair of the carbons? Ill see what I can come up with if thats the case. Candou2... any pics of the line arrays? How do you like the carbons as well? Fairly similar overall to the polys, but with a little more break up to deal with on the top end... although not as ridiculous as some composites I have measured. Thanks, Scott

We recommend 12-16 sqin of port per cuft for most slot port applications. As they are Assassins and do not have as much overall linearity as the Havoc, you can go towards the lower side of the recommendations and be fine. Thanks, Scott

Looking at about 1 cuft for either application. The 10s would be louder near tuning, but the 12s would be louder below tuning as well as from about 20 Hz above. 750 is more than I recommend to the two subs, but it seems that most people usually put more than recommended with fine results. Just ease into things to find limits before really beating them full tilt (although most with DLS products are a little more SQ oriented and less likely to kill products). Thanks, Scott

DC resistance should be about .7 Ohms per coil and about 1.4-1.5 Ohms for both coils wired in series. Did you get a chance to "pop" test the coils like Nick had suggested? As for sending it back, it can be sent to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Warranty 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 I also got to your PM as well... we will get this figured out. Thanks, Scott

Not TC I used to own RE Audio/DeStijl Engineering. As for the VR4000D, Id get the dual 1 Ohm version and run them at 2 Ohms. With the 4000D being a 2Ohm stable amp, that would be your best bet. If you dont need or want the power, simply set the gains or volume knob accordingly. Makes more sense to do it that way so you "could" have the power if you wanted it as opposed to only having 2kW out of 4kW no matter what. The amps wont run any hotter if they arent making the power. But it gives you more control. The next issue of enclosure volume vs bottom octave performance... the larger the enclosure, the more efficient it will be and the better it will produce the bottom end (if tuned for it). The flipside to this is the fact that it will reduce the mechanical power handling of the sub as well. Having a smaller airspiring behind the sub aids in controlling things under higher power applications. While they do work in 5 cuft and under (Steve Meade is proof of that), running 6 cuft or a little more for your application will net a little more efficiency and bottom end. I like tuning the fully loaded versions lower for daily... 33 Hz is a good tuning. Drops plenty deep and still hits hard. But, ported is the only way to go with the BTLs. Sealed would be awful... they simply arent designed for it and would be a monster midbass at that point with no bottom end at all. Thanks, Scott

Not a worry. Im not sure why but they simply must have marked on the wrong spot for that one. Was it with a blue marker over the SPL spot?

Got your email. Ill give you a call tomorrow. Just to check here too... Cookeville is Central time correct? I know there is two time zones in TN.

Both sound like interesting propositions. I personally would like to see you do an ABC with them. I have always enjoyed what they can do (if I was in the mood for a ported setup). 402 should be plenty of power for all 4 of them... Space isnt much of an issue then?

.25 cuft for the Havoc 18. Ill work up a sticky for this info over the weekend.

From the old AA site, Chad recommended 2 cuft sealed for the original Arsenal 15s. (Found it with the help of the internet "way back machine")

Got some info on the other post you had... but basically with 4 cuft before displacement I would look to using 2 3" aeroports side firing to the drivers side with 4"-6" of clearance to the side of the cab... tune 35 or so and youll be good for a clean deep setup. I noticed that you mentioned tuning to 45 Hz with your 8s. You can do that with these as well if you dont mind the peaky response (it will gain you in the 45-70 range over the lower tuning). You could use a pair of 4" aero ports of the same length as the 35 Hz versions too...

I have done a few standard cab setups with 8s 10s and 12s... seems that most of them like the port exiting the drivers side with 4-6" of space between the side firing port and the side wall of the cab. Given that you are at 4 cuft before displacement, Id look to a pair of 3" Aeorports. Theyll maximize airflow and minimize the space requirements. New subs will play with higher tunings as well (all subs will) but givent the space and setup, Id probably tune to 35 hz or so for some depth to things... that is unless you really enjoy a higher tuned peakier setup... just be sure to set the subsonic filters accordingly. Thanks, Scott

Wow... not sure what is going on either... nor will I simply chalk it up to the dealers install being poor (dont know if thats the case or not). I know what the subs can do in the proper setup, and they are rather capable for 8s. Please send an email to [email protected] and I can get your phone and contact info. Let me know when would be a good time to call and I can go over a few things with you. Thanks, Scott

No copper coils on the BTLs. All coils for the BTLs are aluminum. Copper would have too much weight with the coil size we use, and still wouldnt yield the specs I would want. The "Fully Loaded" version which is what many consider the best... consists of the 3rd magnet, full cooling (which includes the pole chamfer), and the high Xmax coil. The SPL option is only for full on SPL only applications. We do not do it for fully loaded versions. And dont let the name fool you. The SPL option isnt always louder either. We have found that most daily and lower powered SPL applications benefit from the slight decrease in motor strength... and some ultra higher power SPL applications benefit from the increase tolerences when coils swell and want to lock up. Please let me know if I can help/confuse anything else Thanks, Scott

What they said...lol I definitely see it being in the realm of reality with those numbers. Depends on how you go about doing it as well. My feeling on bassrace is that it should be tuned low (sub 40 Hz) and produces some real "bass". But more and more people are tuning up to the highest peak they have and running there. This is why we are starting to see more and more super street and now extreme vehicles stepping up to Bass race. Something wrong to me about that. End rant...lol If you tune low, it will be harder to turn a higher number, but it will "pound" hard and be more impressive in general. A 145 at 30Hz is MUCH more violent than a 145 at 60 Hz. But a 150 at a higher peak (say 55-60) will be easier to do. Thanks, Scott

Well... while it would be a problem, I wouldnt say that it is this problem. That would lead to the coil rubbing through due to the tight toplate/coil OD tolerences than normal. But when that becomes the problem, the outer coil will open and it wont work... it wont be a "sometimes" problem. It still sounds like an amp issue to me. It could simply be that the impedance rise for this setup isnt enough for the amp and something goes awry. If youd like to send the sub in we can check it out, but Id rather exaust all other outlets before that. It is far from cheap to send one to us... and Id hate for everything to be OK on it and find the issue elsewhere. Can you repeatably make it do this? If so, hook a multimeter to it and see if the amp is still making power when it has the issue. If there is still the same AC voltage coming out of the amp when the sub shuts off... well then we know its the sub. But I have yet to see anything like that occur. Thanks, Scott