Fi Car Audio

You will gain if you have a larger enclosure if you are still within the limits of the sub. Looks like going from 5.5 up to 8 cuft per sub will net you 1.2-2 dB in the 35-50 range. If that is a worthwhile difference, then cool. Not night and day. But have you noticed the subs softening up much from new? There is a decent amount of suspension to break in. Most people seem to think that they get louder as they soften up...

OK... found it. The order says Daily, build list says daily, UPS label says "FL" which is fully loaded and would therefor exclude the "SPL" tolerences. I am 99.9% sure that it is a daily sub. I know for a fact I havent machined any SPL cooled poles in a LONG time. Simply so few people need them (2 people I can ever remember doing them for and that was 10+ months ago). Ill check with those that would have been involved with its build (for what thats worth I doubt they will remember it specifically as we do quite a few of them).... but Id rest assured that it is a daily version. Sorry for the confusion...

What are the basic dimensions he has to work with for an enclosure? Im sure its rather shallow... Id rather see a couple of 12s with that amp versus a single 1. Pair of BLs would work if you have the space...

Yes we tweak Qs for IB home use all the time, and for some of the SQ car guys (like the Buwalda/Hybrid team). We can tailor things for the application... but as someone else mentioned it might not be a true IB setup... depends on the space. Simply might end up being a really large sealed enclosure. Either way, if you can give me some rough dims for space I can come up with something. As with all IB setups, displacement is king and Id go the largest driver size you can fit. Thanks, Scott

What Nick said ^^^^ There are so many subs out there and different versions of the same thing made over the years. I often dont know what I can recone until I get things in and measure. Often a Chinese made driver I cant. They use weird sized coils. At the same time, if you bought the sub for $49 from a local dealer, it definitely isnt worth reconing either. 9/10 US made subs we can recone. US made SPL subs I cant think of too many we cant. Only two I can think of I cant... Crossfire XT and one version of the Treo SSX (I think thats the model as it has an ultra tight odd sized coil... unless they only run less than .010" on it and then I wouldnt want to recone it as thats too tight anyway)

A pair of Qs in the proper sized enclosure will be louder under daily driving situations than a single BTL12 with similar power. Most liekly subs and ports back. Seems to work best in most trunk cars. Thanks, Scott

2.25" is a no go. Not a common size at all. Sorry...

Yes you can send it in for repair, but 9/10 a tinsel on a BTL is not too much power, but not having the subsonic set correct for the tuning of the system. Overexcursion is what will get those leads... not the power you have. We have people running quite a bit more than that (not that this is a stamp of approval to do so) and never have issues at all. I cant stress setting subsonic filters enough for high powered setups. You can send it in to: Fi Car Audio Attn: Warranty 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Id say itll be a shipping only deal. We can simply replace the lead at no charge if you cover shipping. Be sure to include a sheet of paper with your name, address, phone, and email to expedite the process. Thanks. Scott

Looks good, well built box. Lot of suspension on them fresh out of the box. 1 more spider than an MT has...

Yep, right at about 30 lbs when packed.

$95 each plus shipping for the flatwind setup (which I believe yours are). As for reconing from a D1 to a D2, it depends on if you have the universal setup. There isnt much of a difference on the BLs either way and I do have a D2 that would fit in the D1 gap regardless. Shipping would be $13 for the pair to either zip. Thanks, Scott

Got an email to you... thanks

With the 2006D it makes max power into 1 Ohm. You would need to order the dual 2 Ohm sub, then wire both coils in parallel. This will net you a 1 Ohm load for the amp. Parallel is simply running positive of one coil to the positive of the other, and negative of one coil to the negative of the other. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

Done and shipped. I believe it went via USPS 2 day, but Ill have to look when I get into the office in the morning.

Both have a fair amount of crossover between them. Do you have an amp selected already? IS this going to be ported or sealed?

BTLs seem to do alright given what you are going for... not sure about the others as I have no experience with them (and Id probably be a little biased as it is...lol) Im sure others will pop in with experience soon enough.

Hmmm... not sure what is going on there. We will not make a high Xmax 3 magnet BTL with the SPL motor tolerences. The coil is simply too long to work properly with that. I know I didnt machine one, nor would I. I am sure that someone simply marked that by mistake on the label. As for the coils, that is indeed the high Xmax coil. They are aluminum round wire and not copper, although they are copper colored (this is the color of the enamel on the wire and not the wire itself). Ill check all the email and spam filters to see if I can find one from you. Im not sure your real name and we move quite a few BTLs so not sure where to begin there... give me a little bit and Ill see if I can find your order or who you are. Thanks, Scott

As it is a 24dB/Oct filter I would set it 28 Hz or so. This should give you good coverage below tuning. Without an scope it is difficult to tell exactly where on the dial that is though... You simply want to keep the sub from moving too far mechanically under tuning. So if you feel or hear issues, turn it up a little higher, if not... good Please keep us posted on how it sounds. Thanks, Scott

Sounds like an amp issue. If a sub cuts off, it wont come back on again... cant say I have seen intermitant things happen with a sub that wasnt electrical related. Although the amp doesnt go into protect, it might be pushed beyond its limits. The fact that the volume goes to 80 and you are only at 55 doesnt mean that you arent pushing the amp beyond its capabilities. This is where proper gain settings come into play. I have seen many amps clip, cut out, and act very weird without ever going into protect. Does this happen at a specific freqeuncy as well, or just when pushed beyond "55" on the volume? Thanks, Scott

8 cuft would work well. For a low tuned daily setup Id look to about 33Hz. We normally recommend 12-16 sqin of port per cuft as well. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

Didnt have one of those protos at home. Ill have to measure tomorrow when I get to work.

MX isnt an SQ sub either... just a solid daily driver that is somewhat of a do-it-all. While the BTL has proven itself for SPL, most everyone running them daily as blown away by how good they sound as well. BTL is a solid dual (daily/SPL) sub. Thanks, Scott

Glad to hear they are doing well. Death match makes me cringe Poor subs

We do not have a D4 coil but we do have a D1 coil we could use... still yielding a 2 Ohm load for the amp. 6.0 is 1200W and the Havoc is 1250 RMS. Should be a good match for most applications. Thanks, Scott

Arsenal: 10" -6.000" 12" -6.500" 15" -8.000" Assassin: 10" -5.250" 12" -5.750" Thanks, Scott