Fi Car Audio

Damon, thanks for sending those out Ill post it again for those that might not know. If you send a self addressed stamped envelope to : Fi Car Audio Attn: Stickers 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 We will send you back a couple of the 4" stickers. Thanks, Scott

Should make for a solid setup. With 1350 a sub I would at least do the PC... and the flatwind if you have a little extra $$$. Full loading the sub wont be necessary for the power, but it seems most do anyway. Thanks, Scott

Still sounding to your liking with more time on it?

Agreed with Tejcurrent. Ill add to that as well....on a budget, and having some space to use, I would go for the pair of 15s. The pricing between the a pair of SSDs and BTl is fairly similar yet you will have more output for the same amp size with the pair of SSDs vs single BTL (up to the point where the SSDs tap out and the BTL will take more). But, to really get the BTL louder, you would have to have a fair amount more power, do more electrical upgrades, and really have to spend some $$$ to do it right. I think that the above amp, or something similar, an upgraded battery and power wires along with a pair of SSDs (since you like things low, look to the copper coils on the SSD as well) in a solid low tuned box will get you what you are looking for. The upside of the single BTL is using half the space... the downside is the extra cost to really do the sub justics and your setup correctly. Thanks, Scott

Neither would I. Ntrain2k seemingly summed most peoples experiences with the older XXX up. The old XXX was an XBl sub and was much more sterile in the bass department. It did just about the same sound inf it had 1 W or 1600W going to it. While this sounds like it should be a good thing (and to me it is) many people didnt like the sound. It just didnt start to punch like most people like. With other non linear motors you start to get a Bl/spec shift and a warmer punchier sound when pushed harder. People are used to this and seem to like it more in general... Id say 4 out of 5 or more do. I have had a couple of people swap in the Q in place of the older XXXs and keep the Qs installed. I dont think it is a statement about the Q being better... just that it is about as capable overall and people like the sound a little better. Both love to drop deep, but the Q has less inductance and will play up higher as well. Thanks, Scott

Do you have an enclosure for them? Set the subsonic filter a 2-5 Hz below tuning depending on the filter rate (12dB rate should be set closer to tuning and a 24dB can be set up to 5 Hz below). I recommend an 80 Hz low pass setting for almost any system. Setting higher ruins the bottom end intigration and draws your attention to the "bass" in the rear of the car. Setting lower in most systems leaves a hole in the response as most people dont have enough midbass as it is. If you dont have an oscope then set gains lower to start with. A multimeter can help things along, but with some of the tutorials I have seen lately, they look to get more people into trouble than they are worth (truly you cant set up an amp with only a multimeter unless you have a current clamp and even then... its no where near as accurate as with an oscope). Even though the BTL should take that power with ease, starting on the safe side of settings and backing your way into higher ones is the safe way to go. If you have any specific questions, please let me know. Thanks, Scott

Ill get you taken care of on that one. But lease write it on the info sheet as well so it isnt overlooked by either me or an employee that might be doing the recone. We normally reuse what was on them. Thanks, Scott

Excellent. Glad you like them. You should have a VERY reliable system with the power you have on them. If you get a chance, please post an update in a few weeks after things have had a chance to break in and any of the "honeymoon factor" might be over. Thanks, Scott

I do have a single 4 coil for the Assassins that will work, but dealers seemed to want dual 4 at about a 4:1 ratio. If I get enough of a call for them, Ill probably make them as well. As for the power handling on the Arsenals... I would in no way figure that a pair (assuming you are running a pair of them as you have a 2500D and are using D4s) could take 1250W each. That is FAR beyond what the parts and design of the original drivers should handle. You must have things dialed in well as I have seen people give hell to other much more capable drivers with similar power. Id say you would be the exception more than the rule on that one. As usual I stick to what I feel are realiable ratings for products. With that you shouldnt have any issues. I do think we are at a point now that power is so inexpensive and we are seeing more and more massive "first" systems that taking a safer stance with power ratings is the only way to go. Like with the Fi products Ill let people push the envelope with power on their own. Knowing full well that if they are having issues with the products at the rated power, that they have something set up wrong. Havocs will run sealed, but they like lower qtc alignments for a solid f3. .6-1 cuft for ther 12 and 1.8-3 cuft for the 15.

It was not sent from Fi, but from UPS(Quantum View). It often gets caught in the spam filter or simply overlooked as it is not from Fi. As the above email address is the same that you entered for the order, an email was automatically generated via UPS when your shipping was processed. I sent an email with your tracker. Thanks, Scott

We did make a few of the XXXs in D1 and D4. While rather rare... I do have a few of the correct coils for them. It have slightly different specs than the original D2, but no different than any of the D1s that we made. Please send an email to [email protected] or [email protected] for pricing info. Thanks, Scott

I got plenty of "Are you going to have a presale" questions along the way... Ill keep my thoughts to myself on presales of products At the risk of sounding like a pompous a-hole, I dont see a need to do a presale or introductory price on the web. Some of you know me through Fi and other previous companies... and I feel I can safely say I have been there and done that for most things relating to audio and sales. I have seen what intro pricing, sales, and group buys do and its usually a quick fix for other issues. After group buys at a previous company, direct sales would lag for a few months... and when you spread out the large group buy sales plus the sales for the next 3-4 months you always come up short vs the same time period without the group buy. Then people come to expect a group buy and cheap pricing and simply wont buy unless there is one (which makes sense). AA isnt set up for that, and with SSA being the only net outlet, there simply wont be any reason to cut our own throats. I do understand that initial sales via the net will be slower without it, but at the same time there simply isnt that mentality to wait for the next sale or group buy that I dealt with before. Not too mention that AA is not based on net only sales, and the net factors into the equation as only one small part of the total sales strategy. I guess we will all sit back and see what happens in the next couple of months... I might be sitting on some dusty boxes in a few months steps off of soapbox... Thanks, Scott

Gotcha covered in an email Thanks, Scott

Yes, please go ahead and send the tweeter in to me at: Fi Car Audio Attn: Scott 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Please be sure to include a sheet of paper with your name, address, email, and phone number with the tweeter so we can get in touch with you. Thanks, Scott

Hmmm... well pricing for the the other two lines is less expensive than the original pricing. No, it is not less expensive than the intro or presale pricing, but I never thought that people would be basing things off of that "sale" price point. There is now significantly more overhead and dealer margins to contend with as well. So I honestly felt (feel) that the pricing is spot on for what the subs are. At $425 (plus shipping) for the original Havoc vs $339 shipped for the new one seems cheaper to me

To be honest, Im not sure what those other dims are. Ill measure a basket when I get into the shop today. Normally people are only concerned with the gasket on dimensions. Ill let you know. Thanks, Scott

Arsenals: 10" $165 12" $175 15" $195 I think I need mod powers over here...lol

From UPS your sub will be to you on Tuesday. We do not work on the weekend and you had placed an order while I was out of town. While the sub was built as far as it could be, they did not have the ability to machine anymore of the BP aluminum compression plugs. That portion of things had to wait until I returned and could do it on Monday. It looks as through your sub shipped the following Tuesday. Thanks, Scott

Youve got mail...

This is the reason why I ditched the D4 and went with the D1s in the proto process. Most amps today are 1 or 2 Ohm stable. A pair of D1s will do a 1 Ohm load or 4 Ohm load... a D4 will do a 4 Ohm or 16 Ohm load... so you can see how you get the same single 4 Ohm load and a more common 1 Ohm load for them D1 coils vs the D4. As mentioned above, the Re of 1.4 or .7 is only true at DC... not reactively. Your amp will never see the DCR load, but something much higher. Thanks, Scott

Sent an email to the above address. Cant find anything coming in to either Sales or Scott from it though. I deleted the spam folder yesterday and all that was in it as we have been getting flooded with cr@p lately... so if it was in there... Ill never know. Thanks, Scott

Fully loaded is 1" deeper than above with the extra magnet and I believe dispacement goes up to .24 cuft.

Havoc specs are: 12 D2 Re 3.7 (1.85 Ohm per coil) Fs 30.9 Hz Qms 6.07 Qes .43 Qts .40 Mms 238 g Vas 26.1 l Sd 480 cm^2 Spl 85.8 1W/1m Bl 19.8 Xmax 30mm Rms 1250 W 15D2 Re 3.7 (1.85 Ohm per coil) Fs 29.0 Qms 6.42 Qes .50 Qts .46 Mms 290 g Vas 95.3 l Sd 810 cm^2 Spl 88.5 1W/1m Bl 19.8 Xmax 30mm Rms 1250 W 18 D2 Re 3.7 (1.85 Ohm per coil) Fs 27.5 Hz Qms 6.75 Qes .61 Qts .56 Mms 375 g Sd 1210 cm^2 Vas 182.3 l Spl 89.8 1W/1m Bl 19.8 Xmax 30mm Rms 1250 W Motor is a triple stack with a medium gap long coil setup. Suspension is fairly tough with 3 softer spiders. All around solid sub for daily driving with a good combination of SQ and output ability. Thanks, Scott

Lol... yeah I figured as much considering I was going over everything with Shawn about an hour before that. Not too many people out there with an SRT8 asking the same question

Ill get Havoc specs up tonight here then... Will (8) 10" Arsenals work in the back of a Jeep SRT8? Yep. Not a ton of left over room with 8 cuft net for the subs and a decent port tuned to 30Hz, but... itll be the fastest pounding Jeep around for sure.