Fi Car Audio

Yes I did. But I didnt get them out until a couple days later as I saw your email stating that you wanted the extra heavy leads as well (so I sent both). You should have them Tues or Weds. Thanks and have a good weekend, Scott

Im on the fence with this one. A second sub sealed will help a fair amount... but two of them ported If you arent pressed for time, and $25 isnt going to break the bank, Id try it ported first and see if you like the sound and output of it. If you do... well then $25 was cheaper than a new sub. If not, and sealed was your thing, then at least you know without a doubt. Thanks, Scott

The standard polys will be a little more (its one of those things I hate to do... but itll be offset by solid price drops on other lines). Im changing the inductance rings from the last version (only changes inductance characteristics and not specs) and pricing for steel and parts has gone up since the initial order of polys was made close to 2 years ago. But, the price difference will be minimal... Yes they will still drop the same. There really wont be any changes made to them at all. I love the current ones and the only real changes to the car version will be cosmetic (more car oriented in size) and not performance. Is your HPF digital or just a marked knob? I have seen plenty of pots far from the marked values on the amp. Im running my polys at 80Hz with 125W to each one and they seem to be fine. I am digital with a 36 dB/oct filter though. Thanks, Scott

I had some PHY 21s and piezos for about 3 months (they were on loan). I had them in an open baffle set up and found them to be quite enjoyable. My first experience with them was about 7 years ago from Ocellias Tillia speakers. They were an incredible setup with rather interesting cabinets. The engineer had told me a lengthy story about violin makers and his passion for them and how he took that into his speaker/cabinet designs. I had expected them to be sonically inert like most high end cabinets... but they were about as thin and flimsy as you could possibly make them. But... this was the key to the sound and the resonances of the cabinet were tuned for the overall system.... hearing was believing. I take the 5th on 2 Ohm Poly drivers

I had some PHY 21s and piezos for about 3 months (they were on loan). I had them in an open baffle set up and found them to be quite enjoyable. My first experience with them was about 7 years ago from Ocellias Tillia speakers. They were an incredible setup with rather interesting cabinets. The engineer had told me a lengthy story about violin makers and his passion for them and how he took that into his speaker/cabinet designs. I had expected them to be sonically inert like most high end cabinets... but they were about as thin and flimsy as you could possibly make them. But... this was the key to the sound and the resonances of the cabinet were tuned for the overall system.... hearing was believing. I am FAR from a beleiver in audio BS and snake oil.

double post

Send it on in... I know a thing or two about those and I can fix it. We can recenter the motor and recone the sub for you. Thanks, Scott

I dont recommend running an amp at .5 daily. Keeping things above 1 Ohm is a good thing. Running so much current through a sub to yield the same power only serves to heat stuff up and make leads and coils mad. If you can get equivalent power at 1 Ohm or more, I say go that route. And I am all for extra headroom too. Thanks... Scott

What is your name and Ill send you out some. You should get a sticker with every box. If one of my guys isnt putting them in, Ill have to have a little talk with them. 28 hz really drops low and depending on the overall enclsoure size is a bottom end monster. 32-33 is a good standard all around tuning that gives you a little bump in the 35-55 range and seems to be what many people like. I prefer sealed or lower tuned enclosures Thanks... Scott

I have used the Jordans (many many years ago) as well as the Bandors and a bunch of others. I have designed full range drivers that are currently being used in home applications. I truly love full range drivers, but Im not sure that AA would be the proper outlet for them. I have several designs of smaller drivers done... just no where or real reason to market them. I do have a full range driver goal and I am well on my way to achieving it. But its much more of a personal design than a marketable one. Who knows. Maybe when I get some free time (which is about as funny of a sentence as I could think of writing) I will push the ideas along again. But at the same time, I have much more marketable designs and 4 other patents to finish up... so I really cant see when I would find the time to devote to finishing them. Its not like a sub that I can whip up in a couple of hours... from the work I have done so far I can see a few months of work to really get things going. Thanks... Scott

lol... complete with whizzer cone Sorry. While I am all for full range drivers (heck ive got a pair of 3" fullranges in horn loaded enclosures playing music through 3 Watt tube amps as Im typing this), Im figuring a high efficiency full range unit has very little value within the car audio market. Thanks... Scott

If Im not mistaken that amp is rated at 6000W at 2 Ohms... which is a trmendous amount of power. Seeing as this is not a burp class, I would definitely get the full cooling if there is any hope of keeping the coils and sub together with 6kW on it. OI know you mentioned that it wont be run full tilt... but with 2500W + to it for daily/music I would recommend the full cooling. 3.5 to 4 cuft after port and driver will work well. Port is calculated as mentioned above by multiplying the net cuft by 12 to 16 to find a workable value in sqin. Let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

We will have more polys a little while after the subs are rolling again... Then we are adding a slightly modified version of the poly to the lineup as well. This one uses a 6.5" basket and will have provisions for a car audio grill. I would rather switch over to this new driver only (same basic driver but with a different basket)... but the HT crowd has grown to love (and I feel rightfully so) the current driver and its HT styled/sized basket... not to mention that I want more of them for personal products More small speakers in the works, but no date or info for a while. We are working on a full line up of products that dealers want/need. Thanks... Scott

10-4 PST same bat time same bat channel. Thank... Scott

I sent out 10 yesterday and another 8 today. I dont have the full list in front of me so Im not sure of all the Mikes... but I have Allcock and Millen as 'Mikes' for todays... These take 2 to 3 days via USPS... so if you dont get yours by Monday... please feel free to yell then. thanks... Scotts phone

All of our subs that are D2s can be swapped to D1s. There are varying degrees of coil size difference between the subs, but the D2s are the larger OD of the coils per sub series. Normally you cant swap a D1 to a D2 without the Universal option. You will not have the exact same motor strength if you order a D1 sub as standard for the next one if the current one is reconed to a D1. You would have to order the Universal option with the D1 coil to have them match. Thanks... Scott

BL15 would definitely be louder. You would need to add the flatwind and the cooling in order for it to take the full power... Thanks... Scott

lol... do you really need to do that to get a sticker? Howd those "Fi" thongs fit?

Yes... but be sure to include all of your contact nfo on a sheet of paper too... Fi Car Audio is fine for the MO.

With the Explorers I normally do sub up and port back. Seems to work well. Enclosure dimensions will vary in them per year/model. Measure the width between the wheel wells and the height to the back of the seat. I can design a box from there. Thanks... scotts phone

Well... he is right about the thermal loss not being half. It can depend on if it is the inner our outer coil winds being used a little too and how the cooling is setup. But... Im not sure if I would agree with things being current limited. I am seeing more and more current problems with people running amps at ultra low impedances. And well... running a sub with only one coil does drastically change TS params as well. Yes, you can design for this as I did with the extra half coil in the AA Atlas subs, but it can make a huge difference (usually for the worse). In general I dont recommend it. Normally you just order the proper coil for the amp and setup you have and are good to go. Where I have recommended it is with lower powered HT applications for IB, Q changing with a shorted coil, or as a feedback loop for servo setups. In car... nope Thanks... Scott

Thank you for the order. We packed your subs up a little more than usual to ensure that there arent any US Postal Service or local postal service issues. Please let me know when they arrive and definitely keep us posted when you get them! Thanks, Scott

Is this at any specific excursion level at higher volumes? Or just all the time?!??! Definitely want to figure that one out. Thanks... Scott

Send your name and address as well as your shirt size to [email protected] along with a couple of the links to your posts/topics and if you meet the free shirt requirements, we will send you one out in the mail along with a larger 12" sticker and a couple of smaller ones. Thanks... Scott

You have 5.35 cuft to start with (assuming 3/4" MDF). 3.5 cuft after displacement tuned to 33Hz with a 3" X 15.5" X 20" long port. Enclosure ends up being 40" X 17" X 14". Thanks... Scott