Fi Car Audio

Where in AZ would be central? While Im 15 minutes from AZ, if its close enough and makes sense for everyone to meet somewhere, I might make the trip too.

Looking at the basics of what you gave... Id say the 2 Q12s ported. But at that point... if you have enough room for 2 Q12s ported, you have enough room for 3 sealed 12s.

Pics taken... need to find my cable and Ill get some up tonight. FAR from pretty, but this ZJ is much more about function than looks

What size sub and options? Also, whats your enclosure specs? Thanks, Scott

Knowing both the AVA and the BL farily well, I can safely say they are two VERY different subs. One is more about brute strength and the other finese. Pretty tough to compare the two in any sort of linear fashion as they are really intended for two rather different applications. The new Havoc seems to straddle the line a little better and has solid SQ and some balls behind it as well. Product is geared slightly different than the last couple iterations. AA is focusing on what dealers/distributors sell more than what the forum demands at any given time (which is subject to change and whim at the drop of a 0 awg terminal) AA has always been a more SQ focused company, and the newer products are no different. Still focused on solid designs and good sounding subs at a value, I think people will be happy with the new line up. We arent yet releasing info about the new lines, but we wanted to get a place to focus any current questions about products (past ones) and prepare for info releases on the new ones. Given my current relationship with SSA... I couldnt think of a better place for Ascendant. Thanks, Scott

I dont know... am I? If there is one in the LA area I might head out that way. The H2 wont be finished for a few more weeks... but Ill see if Chris would want to head out that way and just demo the bottom end (closest to being done)... its (6) BTL15s and 15k tuned to 30 Hz. Should hurt the Hummer Let me know what shows are coming up and Ill see if I can squeeze in a trip. Thanks... Scott

Flakko... yeah we are in Nevada still. I didnt feel the need to correct that one about CA since it looked mor elike wishful thinking to me:) I miss CA. Next run of shirts I have to do some 3X and 4X as I have had more than a few requests for them. Thanks... Scott

I went through all of my emails and even the spam folder... didnt seem to find one from you. Can you reforward it to me at [email protected]? Thanks, Scott

Not bad at all I really dont care too much if people individually decide to make their own shirts. But it would have to be for personal use only. 1 for you (and maybe a spare for when you get Liquid Nails smeared on the other) and not selling them to anyone else. Something about the copyrighted logo and name and all that legal mumbo jumbo. Might make for an entertaining contest though... Current shirts are plain and single color... new ones will have a little more pop to them. But like we said before, we build subs and arent a clothing company. Ill keep an eye on this one though. This topic might turn into something a little more fun. Thanks, Scott

Hmmm... Street C (or A and B for that matter) normally do not get along with BTLs. They tend to have too much motor strength to peak hard enough in the lower power/ lower pressure Street systems. Super Street and Extreme are completely different applications though. Id figure that your BL should take high powe Street burps just fine, and probably peak a decent amount more than the BTL would. Remember that a burp is unitl the meter registers (3 or less seconds) and not 30 No high power sweeps, and let it cool in between runs. This will greatly help in keeping the coils together for many many happy burps. Thanks, Scott

I think yours has already shipped out too... if not, I know it will go tomorrow morning as the sub was started and finished today (squeezed it into the machining loop this morning with some other parts). Youll have it by Thurs Im sure. Appleyard lives on the other side of a rather large pond Thanks, Scott

Not sure what was said there... Anyway, Nick about summed it up with what we use the 3rd magnet for. We could bump out the plates to do something similar, but often it is more expensive to use more steel than to simply use the third magnet. Not too mention you do get an ever so slight increase in motor strength with the 3rd magnet vs simply bumping things out. Thanks... Scott

Glad it is working out well for you. Please keep us posted on how it works long term... and if you are interested in a free shirt, check out the "free stuff" promo we are doing... Thanks, Scott

True... most people with stock ZJs could do fine with a donut. I wouldnt get another 2 feet on a donut and routinely carry the spare on the box/storage space in the back as well as another on the roof if we are venturing too far out in BFE. Plugs only get me so far with side wall gashes Didnt get a chance to take a picture but I will. Yes there are several companies that make nice crawling bumpers with swingout tire carriers. But youd look rather silly on stocks with a meaty bumper on the back. Not too mention they do weigh a little bit and with 94 coils... youd sag a little more too. Ill take a pic tomorrow. Now I have it written in the "to do" list.

Hmmm... I removed the stock spare (pretty much useless for me with larger tires) and made a shallow floor mount storage/enclosure that I simply stick the full size spare on top of and strap down. Im sure you could build a full size enclosure, and run a larger bolt through the top of the box with big washers and tighten it down with a nut so it doesnt spin... then use the stock "wing nut" through the stud to secure the spare in place on top of it. Ill see if I can take a pic of what Ive got and measure today. Same model as yours... Im sure we can figure a way to get (2)15s in there with the spare. What size spare is it as well? Thanks, Scott

Far be it from me to talk crap... but I seem to recall me making a 6.5" driver that had over 4" of peak to peak excursion. If we want to see a piece of crap that can flop around... that was it http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Res...ring/xmx6.1.wmv

As mentioned above... no worries on fitting a pair of 15s in that space. You will actually be able to shrink it down quite a bit. But... I am assuming that that is max space, and not actually a realistic box that will fit through the trunk opening nor allow for any space around the sub to load or for pressure to travel. What vehicle is this? Thanks... Scott

Not too difficult. Go ahead and send me an email to [email protected] and Ill get your shipping info and phone number. Thanks, Scott

Welcome to SSA and the Fi forum! With that much power I would definitely recommend the full cooling regardless of your choice for High Xmax and 3rd magnet or not. While the High Xmax coil option will allow for things to play deeper, it will also allow you to run the sub into mechanical limits due to the increased linearity of the sub. Flinging a coil out of the gap (standard coil and XMax) with a lot of power isnt as tough on things as actually powering it all the way out to its limits (High Xmax coil and 3rd magnet). Thanks, Scott

Im not morally opposed to WinISD. It works fine for getting ports correct, but you have to know what you want in a response curve before hand. I often use lspCAD for design work. Its a little more complicated than WinISD, but it allows me to import FR graphs and really get a solid design going. But... your cars basic transfer function mucks up the nice response curves you see in the programs anyway (I can correct for this in lspCad, as Im sure you can in BB Pro). Our recommendations are based off of what we feel works and years of knowing what most customers like. My own personal tastes in systems seem to stray off the norm... WinISD is free, and feel free to use it for port work. That online box calc program works too... although it makes its own port suggestions based off of the entered Xmax and doesnt allow you to change it since we know better than it. Unless you are trying to get a very specific response curve in a car... simply do what you feel is best and what we/others recommend or have done and work with that. Over time you will learn what response curve you are looking for in a given application... and it is far from what many programs recommend. The programs work fine for many things, but higher power and pressure applications, things start to change. The ever increasing complexity/order of an enclosure all of this gets even worse. Its hard to model things in a static situation when all parts involved are very dynamic (but some programs are getting better at non linear modeling too).

Welcome to the forum. Youll find SSA a nice place to stay... infinetely more flame free than most of the other forums. Does the 1201.1 have a subsonic filter? I wont recommend an amp without one for a ported application. I remember all the issues I had at RE with the older JBL1200.1 without the SSF and its nasty clipping habits. I had thought I read something in a post about subs giving out power too... well odd terminology given how most car audio people talk of speakers and amps... it still wouldnt be wrong. Subs simply change Watts electrical to Watts acoustic. Power none the less. Now if we could only get them to be better at convering the power and not being curling irons kicking of waste heat Wes... I told you not too mention that monster Q sub to anyone I havent quite perfected the 15' Q cone yet, although I have done a 24" recently Thanks, Scott

Should do fine. Id only put the 45 in the port corner and the run a radius on the inner outer edges of the slot port (thats if I was to even go that far). Should sound fine. Thanks, Scott

Aeroports are a different story. You can run less sqin per cuft with aeroports than you can with standard round or slot ports (given that the edges are squared off). Now if you have a Square-o-port (trademark pending and acknowledgements to Mr Meade ) you can use less port area as well. Round ports have less surface area and drag per sqin vs slots ports. High ratio slot ports become the worst offenders... while you have 50sqin with a 2" X 25" port, you would get better flow through a single 8" round port (which is 50 sqin as well) You are a little beyond the limits on the application you have. While it will work, it seems that near tuning with 500 per sub you will be running into port compression issues. Changing to (2)3" ports wont help much, and a pair of 4" will eat up too much space. If this is what you have to work with, Id just use it. Like I mentioned... you will be running the ragged edge, but you are far better off with 13 sqin of aeroport vs 13sqin of slot port. Thanks, Scott

I second the Q12 ported. It should work well in that space, and doesnt look like it will rob you of all of it. Thanks, Scott

OK.... in looking at the pic and reading through the whole post, I think Nicks assesment is right on. High current becomes the problem in more and more applications. As previously stated, when you are running things below 1 Ohm, you are running more current than voltage, which for a given lead wire size, becomes a problem. We really first ran into this issue with the JBL Crown amps and peoples tendency to run them in high current mode vs high voltage. You get the same power out of these, but with the philosophy that the lower the Ohm load the better... people were popping coils and leadwires like fuses. Trying to get 8000W out of a Crown in high current simply became a nightmare... but pulling 8000W in high voltage was simple and the coils and wires didnt care. Watts is watts... and most of your Watts electrical being applied to your sub simply gets scrubbed off as waste heat. So there isnt a change in the Watts electrical to Watts acoustic equation... but there is between current and voltage to achieve the same results. 1900W at .5 Ohms comes down to about 62 amps and 31 Volts... thats a far cry from 43.6 Amps and 43.6 volts at 1 Ohm or 31 Amps and 62 Volts at 2 Ohms. Given the same wire, it is much happier with the higher voltage and lower current. Now if people could build cheap high power amps that made max power into 8 Ohms... we would all be happier. Thinner lighter coils, tighter gaps, smaller motors, all to do the same job and make speakers cost less. 15.4 Amps and 123 V... really easy current load but 8 Ohms simply doesnt sound as cool as .5 In my honest opinion the sub was run with too much current, and may or may not have been clipped... I wont argue that one. I really never thought Id see the day when I would have to rate my products in terms of current handling capability. Many years ago I did run hi-pot tests on different types of coils to see what issues I would have. Most would take over 1000V without issue. At that much voltage and 1900W, you would only be running 1.4 amps... but that could give you one heck of a shock if you were inclined to touch the terminals or lick them I know none of this solves your problems... if you are up to it, I can send you out a tinsel lead and new dustcap to replace things with. By far the easiest and least expensive swap to do (vs shipping it back). Thanks, Scott