Fi Car Audio

Tom... so are you saying this ended up being an elaborate plot to make Shawn feel awful? If so, you are low. Ill have a check in the mail and some return slips for the subs. I simply couldnt see you getting so bent about the post... but then again... cards very well played. So are we on to make that thing louder or what?!?!? Scott

We do not include it as a standard item as many SPL competitors simply dont need or use it. For daily, we do recommend it, although it isnt an absolute necessity (depending on power and application). Send me an email about it to [email protected]... Thanks, Scott

Everything looks fine. As soon as it comes in Ill let you know. Thanks... Scott

Ah hell... I can come up with something solid for them. I do have a few 10" spiders, but Im not the biggest fan of them given the surround we use as standard (or the Ti surround for that matter) as the suspension moves WAY further than the surround will allow for. Not too mention I cant make the suspension too stiff with the 10" spiders I have. I can make a ring for the standard 8" spiders I use and Im sure I can come up with something thatll make for a very tough sub. A few things I can do, I wont mention, but I can increase the thermal capacity of the sub some too... Send me pics or post them here if you can... Thanks, Scott

JimJ... yes it is. But not as many people know that formula and use it to compare specs and drivers with. Most people simply look at the Bl number and use that as a guidline... in which case, the larger number for wiring things in series does look better. I do measure all subs in series as you have less margin for error in measuring DCR with the sginficant digits that the VOM has. If you are accurate to .1 Ohms, measuring a D1 coil in parallel yields .4 (in reality about .35) so you are off by about 14%... measuring 1.5 in series is spot on. I had assumed fosgaholic was talking about the Bl number only... as I have had this question a few different times about why such a performance hit on the Bl in going with the D1 vs D2 (in the case of the Bl its 12.8 vs 19) Thanks, Scott

Solid recommendation above, but Im getting about 22" of port after end correction for 32 Hz. With a 5" X 46.5" port and approx 6" of space between it and the back hatch (going from tejcurrent) it will load and most likely drop the tuning even lower (itll act as somewhat of a port extension). This is where some trial and error comes into play. Worst case with an extra 18" of port, youd be in the 26-27 range... which in most cases is too low of a tuning. But... like I said, some trial and error on port length might be in order since the port size and space between the back wall are so close (it will act like a 90 and a continuation of the port to a certain extent). Thanks... Scott

We will. Im hoping that you included your phone and email with the order as well. Makes it much easier if I dont have to search to see if I have seen your name or info elsewhere. Ill write your name and email down now and put a post it on the screen for this Thanks, Scott

Yes, there would be a BL difference between the two subs... even if they were using the same ID top plate (universal option). But... dont get hung up on Bl as there is quite a bit more to things than that and really only makes any sense at all when referenced to DCR. You can wire a D2 coil in series and have a much higher Bl than if you wired it in parallel. Does this mean series is better, more efficient, and somehow manages to gain motor strength? Nope. Same old thing... This is how many companies like to rate things... with their coils in series for a higher BL number, then with the coils in parallel for a lower DCR to reference efficiency from at 2.83 V. Ahhh... marketing

I like the SSDs sealed. Im running (2) standard 10s right now. The copper coils will drop a little deeper than the standard versions. I have about 800W to each and they can really get going when pushed. But I dont push them that much. I think they are a solid little sub that sounds great. As Ive said elsewhere... I do have my pick of Fi subs, or any sub I really feel like making/machining... and Im more than happy with the SSD 10s sealed. Sealed Id look from .5 - 1.25 cuft depending on coil choice and desired Qtc. The SSD12 sealed would have more output vs the Q10 in the upper region... and the Q10 from about 25 to 50 (given a standard 32 hz tuning).

Depends on the sub and enclosure if things will sound and measure different. I have notice considerable differences in some subs sealed when the suspension really breaks in (TEF measurement wise). Audibly it can make a good difference, and in the case of the Qs, it really does. Actually... most of our subs that use the stiffer spiders tend to take some break in time and you will notice a considerable suspension difference between fresh and broken in. I could use 3 soft spiders to net a similar suspension to 2 stiff ones, and the break in time would be a little less pronounced, but I like how the stiffer spiders bond to one another and the neck joints better than the softer ones. Devildriver... Finally someone that knows music... "You

Chris, Thanks for the glowing and through review. We will have something up shortly to help get the forum back to where it was and Ill use your post as the example of how to do it right (even if their review isnt 2 thumbs up like your seems to be) Thanks and have a good weekend, Scott

Actually it comes out about right with 6cuft and the port area and length. I didnt check all the cut sheet to see how they did it... but looks fine spec wise. 32-33 is a good all around tuning. Itll drop plenty deep, but still have kick to it as well. We normally recommend 12-16 sqin of port per cuft of enclosure so at 16 and 6cuft you are right at 96 which is approx what the program gave you... chalk one up for the online calc this time Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Thanks, Scott

Sent again... this time with my head out of my @ss and without the typo. Copied and pasted direct from UPS. Thanks, Scott

Oh, thats the sub on SMD then? No worries there... not much can be done about a magnet cracking in half and things shifting over. First time I have ever seen a magnet crack all the way around in a circle. Crazy. Let me know when you get this one in and that it arrives in good condition. Thanks, Scott Fi Car Audio

Ive got about 800 to mine... but they are sealed and babied more than most peoples. No too much abuse going on when about the only thing they see is kick drum. Im sure if you arent pushing them with max power all day and running them into clipping from lack of headroom... you wont have any issues at all. 2 cuft ported after displacment will work fine. Id tune them around 33 for a solid daily driver with a little kick to it. Thanks and have a good weekend, Scott

Sub will be delivered on Monday. A tracker was sent to the email you had used for the order via UPS (Quantum View). I have resent a tracker to that email from [email protected]. Often it gets overlooked or caught in the spam filter when it is sent from UPS (as everyone gets a tracker to the email provided). If there is anything else I can do, please let me know. Oh... and thanks for being smart and including a invoice number...lol Its amazing when you get "Hey can you send me my tracker" from someone named "Buttcheez" on the forum with no other info than that... sorry Thanks... Scott

lol... nope

Most people are pushing them with about 2500W. Seems to make a solid combination with a Kicker 2500 or Orion. Some are using more, but I cant condone it Thanks... Scott

Found 1 coil thatll work, but Im looking for something a little beefier as this one I kind of think is too puny to use. Im still looking Thanks, Scott

Thanks for signing back up! Sorry about the crash and deletion of accounts. Usually shipping to AK or HI is less through the Postal service... not too mention faster too. You are looking at an extra $67.50 for shipping of a standard 2 magnet BTL to your zip. Im not sure about whose sub had an issue on SMD, but the one that I know of ended up being abuse from playing the sub 15 hz below tuning without a subsonic filter(as he tolde veryone in posts on here and CA.com). As the BTLs are designed primarily for SPL, certain design considerations were made. If you are sitting the sub down into the spiders with high excursion and lots of power, eventually the leadwire will rub on the spiders. We have yet to have a failure because of this and the subs simply play on as normal. Im bummed that the forum went down as I could search here for the same info... but its gone now. Ill get others to post their system designs and thoughts on things so that people can easily search for recommendations and info again. That way you can see if others are having issues, or simply loving their products and base your decisions off of that as well. Thanks, Scott

Box looks fine and will work well. Its just that the program sets up your port area based off of the Xmax and SD of the sub (which gives you the max linear volumetric displacement). This is not to say that you cant use a smaller port as we normally recommend 12-16 sqin of port per cuft of enclosure. That program simply doesnt allow you to change things unless you go in and start to tweak with Xmax to try and get a different port area. Instead I would download WinISD for free and use both programs to work from. http://www.linearteam.dk/ Between the two programs (and I wouldnt use WinISDs recommendations either) you can really get a application specific design going. Thanks... Scott

Sorry, I know you had posted here before the crash... and Im sure it said what sub, but I cant remember what it was or your real name to check what you ordered. What are you getting? Thanks... Scott

Is this for a daily driver? Id use the loaded BL. You wouldnt be pushing the BTL much at all, and the BL would have a little flatter response and be more in its recommended power at that point. Thanks... Scott

Figuring in a Legend you will have a tough time to get the space to do an SSD18 properly. Id go with the Q15 at that point. Decently similar overall volumetric displacement between the two...

Money orders are fine. They can be sent to: Fi Car Audio Attn:Scott 5480 Cameron St #107 Las Vegas NV 89118 Please be sure to include your name, address, phone, and email. We will contact you to confirm receipt of payment and forward you a tracking number from UPS (Quantum View) SSDs and Qs are 3 business days build time. Shipping is 2-6 business days depending on how far you are from LV. Not the biggest fan of that enclosure program... it works but it assumes it knows something better than you do. Your box design looks fine and should make for a solid daily driver. D2 will work fine with the coils in series for a single 4 Ohm load with the amp you have. If there is anything else we can do to help... let us know. Thanks... Scott