dopey

Throwing around the idea of 'glassing an 8" midbass, and some 5.25CDT's in a door pod. Is the rli a good option?

The shape of the cone causes it to rub on the spider. Fi wont sell you one for DD, and you'd probably be better off with something else. Maybe BL's or a BTL 12"? Perhaps a Q or two.

fill up the area you want to measure with peanuts, then take them out and put them in a shipping box. You can get boxes and peanuts at Office Depot or the UPS store.

The felt didn't "wrap around" the tinsel. The tinsel beat the felt to fluff. You are running your subs too hard.

Yep. I prefer to mount to the SIDE of the box. Mounting to speaker baffle isn't ideal, but should be fine. Your box shouldn't viberate, and it shouldn't slide around either. If it viberates, you need bracing. If it slides you need velcro.

15"BTL 12" SSD

A few weeks ago I put an SSD (copper coil) in the trunk of my wifes BMW. The sub is probably fully broken in, and is signifacantly louder and lower than it was initially, but it's not loud enough. And could be lower! It's seeing approx 1000w in a 2cuft sealed enclosure. I prefer sealed for small size and lowend extension. I have approx 1400w available at 2ohm. Should I give the SSD away and get a Q (or BL), or should I add another SSD? Before I make this decision, I will build another enclosure (ported) before I act, I am just looking for input. Thanks.

what? what? what? what?

Basket/motor shots!!! please?

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Orion_XTR900/ Id GUESS that it would be similar to this.

That was one of the best posts I have ever read. Thank you VERY MUCH for taking the time to post that. This is the reason I want a HU with time correction (phase adjustability). I'm not too aweful concerned with PERFECT sq, just lsq. actually Lsq. And btw, this jizzlobber has followed me around, posting chit in my threads, getting off topic, making fun of me, my system, and all kinds of chit. I don't know if he's jealous or what...but he's acting like a total jack ass. I have NEVER posted crap in his threads, and I generally try to stay away from people with that bad vibe. But he won't stay away from me. The mods have had to modify his posts on numerous occasions, because he has been such a complete waste of bandwidth. It should be cool now. He's on /ignore. Again, devildriver thank you very much!

Search isn't turning up anything on URAL...well nothing I can read. Getting some neat cryllic crap. If the front stage gets mushy...the rear is too loud. I'm talking JUST above inaudible. If youre in the back seat...you can't hear it. I can hear it because I know it's there. hey jizzboy, see your way out. youre not welcome in my threads.

I tried to rotozip my way thru a double baffled .75" mdf wall once. ONCE! Its great for drywall....mdf...not so much. Use a jigsaw...or a router. jigsaw.

Just calmly explain that the resin is no good for making crank. You NEED the MEKP. Then act like you steal something when they escort you out.

Thanks. If the car wasn't a four door, I wouldn't even worry about it. I usually keep the rear gains just above inaudible. It helps submersion in the sound. Just to tie everything all together.

Yup. I just don't see the infatuation with wanting to modify production drivers. Some ideas may sound great in your head. I think the design engineer knows best though. . nG Yeah, you're right. I'm glad Fi doesn't offer any "options". dick. Do you also go by ibanender on splbassx? You guys would probably LOVE to get together and circle jerk. (he's ALMOST as big an ass as you.)

First, a little about my setup. I want to run a 4 channel amp on my front stage, a two channel on rear fill, and 2 sub amps. This means I need 4 sets of preamp outs right? One set for front tweets, one set for front mids, one set for rear full range, and one set for sub amps. I want to be able to cross over the front mids and tweets at different points, in case I change components. I feel it sounds better if this is done at the HU so the amplifier can concentrate power only on desired frequencys. I will only use the preamps, so internal amp isn't necessary, infact I'd prefer NO internal amplifier. Only need CD capability, no MP3, no DVD. Some sort of time alignment. Thanks.

BTL 10's are burp only. Why no 15" or 18"?

39" wide 18" deep 22" tall 1.5" walls 4.5 box volume 76sq" of port 32" long port tuned to 34hz With available space, I'm tuned a little high (it's a big interior, peaks around 40hz)...and I'm lacking port area. Should I go longer on the port to get lower or should I go longer and wider and keep the tuning freq (or possibly let it raise)?

NVM IM DUMB... Can you make a deeper rear plate? top plate?

Can it be done to extend the gap limits?

And the Voice Coil

dude said 1db.

Yeah, and this doesn't take an advanced engineering degree to design.

Only flaring one wide would still be 50% better than not flaring either. You can alse bend the inside wall, so there would be much less turbulance at the inside corner (of an "L" port) than there would be otherwise. Add something to the opposite corner and it's a completely bent (radiused) port.