accordwithbass

I have a DD M3a and when I see set ups on youtube or forums they have 3k or 2.5k or 4500Ds I want to know if my amp is around the same as the ones they use. So my question is what is the DD M3a similar too in output, their site says 2200 at 1 ohm, but everyone says they are underrated and get to 5k at .5. And lets assume my electrical is good enough for a .5 load. What amps would be very similar? SAZ-3500D? DC 3.5k?

Hahaha, I hate that. I sold my buddy this brand new but very crappy 15" sub, and I told him id give him my sealed box with it once I get the money from him. And I gave him the sub like 2 days before he gave me the money and he calls me saying it sounds like crap. I go to his house 2 days later and see he has it in the crappiest 1/2" particle board box with a crappy little 2"x3"x1"port and leaks like a gallon of milk with a shotgun blast through it. I just laughed, then he put the sub in the sealed box and was like oh wow that made a HUGE difference!! Then I stood on top of my sealed box and said "look how strong this is, go stand on yours" he stood on it and BOOM it collapsed. lol. And he also had a 10" with the random circle hole in the back of the box for a "port"

Wonder if my sealed enclosure sounds soooo good cuz of the size... Slightly over the recommended SSA cubes... hmmm To bigjon: Ive seen some kids at my school cut out a dual 10" sealed box hole to mount 12s, then take a big round drill bit and cut about a 2" circle in the sides and throw it in their car and think its the s**t To Shogen: When I had my Fi Q 15 sealed, I had lower power so I had a 3.5 cube sealed box. And man did it sound good. I had 2 10s sealed before the 15 off the same amp, and the 15 just killed the 10s in how low it could go, sound quality, and output.

Yeah, if im feeling like I need to try and bid on something and try and get it cheap, ill go to the local flea market/swap meet/community garage sale and barter with those people and get some random stuff thats fun until it breaks, or it blows up

I just searched honda civic and they don't even auction those. Haha

lol, I know I just went to the site and im watching some tv being sold and its like 5...4...3...2...10.. NO!!! Then you have to wait until someone falls asleep like you said, or their finger cramps up and they can't click. I think the only thing good about that quibids thing is the girl in the commercial, and she wasn't even the best looking, lol.

I think its stupid. Its designed for you to waist your money bidding. "I got a Honda civic for like $100!!! YEAH!!" I say

I had 1 Fi Q 15 sealed once, it sounded great and got loud in my trunk, off only 600 watts. I liked sealed enclosures in trunks, not in the cabin...(Ive always had horrible results from sealed boxes in cabins)

I think your car is a hatchback, port it. It will make a hell of a difference. My 15 sealed had so little output it was terrible, when I was testing a 12" Memphis sub in a ported box in my cabin it was wayyy louder than the sealed 15.

Heres your problem, well from my experience. I had a Fi Q 15" in a 3.5 cube sealed box off 500 watts also. I had it in my trunk facing the rear of my car and it slammed. I then started building my wall and I had my false floor in, I put my sub and box in my cabin (on the false floor facing forward. so like 2.5 feet more towards the front than your sub.) and without changing any settings I cranked it up and it SUCKED!!! It was still flexing like hell but there like NO bass output. So I faced the sub up, nothing, sideway, nothing, There was no bass what so ever. But as soon as I put it back in the trunk, it slammed once again. You need to build a box to fit in your trunk with the sub facing the rear of the car. After hearing the sealed box in my cabin, I will never run sealed unless its in a trunk. I don't think its your head unit or amp, just make sure all the settings are correct, make it face the rear of the trunk, and I guarantee it will get way louder. Idk why sealed boxes in cabins suck, but they do most of the time. My dad got an 8" sealed sub in his truck and it sucked, I told him to get one ported, so he got an 8" in a ported box and it was wayyyy louder. So no start giving me crap, im stating this all from experience.

I have this car, since it has the antenna in the back window there is none for the antenna, and I know on my buddys older accord the antenna would only come on when you hit radio. But like stefanhinote said, just tap into the wire he stated, or just run a switch, and also, wiring to ignition is really EASY on our cars. I have my LED halos wired to ignition.

double post

A bolt is typically what alot of people ground too, it should be fine. I like to find a open area and sand the paint and screw it to the bare metal.

I have 2 15" FI Qs, I had 1 in sealed box in my trunk off of 600 watts, it slammed and the quality was reallllly good. Then I got a second sub and put them in a 8 cube box walled tuned to 33hz running off a DD M3a. They hit the 38-45 hz super loud. I wish I would of tuned the box to 28hz. But they are great subs, I would get the BLs, if I had the knowledge I had now id have the BLs.

Nice, I cant wait to see these subs, sucks about the car tho, some new lines and a little modification to your alt post and your good.

Nobody? No one owns a icon 15 that can give me some input about how much watts it can take daily or anything??

Bump, my goal with this system is to have a SPL cone area over power build. Since Ill have a removable port ill have 1 for comps 1 for daily and 1 tuned way low (just to test for fun) which out these two subs would be a better sub for the SPL side of things, Fi Q, or SSA Icon. Im guessing the Fi q would be best in SPL??

So Im going to rebuild my wall, and im going to do 4 15s this time. I have 2 Fi Q 15s right now. But I can sell them and get SSA subs. The amp I will be running is a DD m3a clamped. So my question is should I stick with Fi and get 2 more Qs or should I sell them off and get 4 SSA Icons? just post your thoughts and opinions, the box will have a removeable port and be about 16 cubes before port and im guessing 14-15 after the port is in. Here is my system now,

What would be better, 4 Qs with high QTS ported? or 4 SSDs with low QTS

But why is low QTS better for ported?

So im upgrading my system again, I first had 1 Q 15 sealed with the High qts option, then I wanted to go ported, so I bought another Q 15 with high QTS to be the exact same as the first sub. Im now going to rebuild my wall and run 4 FI Q 15s (later ill probably SP4s) the next 2 subs I get will have all the same options as the other 2 but should they still have High QTS since im running ported? I know high QTS is not optimum for vented enclosures, but should they all be the same when it comes to QTS?

Thats what I was looking for thank you.

hahahahaha thats awsome.

Exactly

Cool, I did search and also I didn't ask how to pronounce it. But what I did get from your post is that a few pages in one of those threads was how Fi names their subs after things in their lives. Like the BL means buzz lightyear. I would of never known, but in this thread im asking why did they choose Fi, out of the inFinitely? And is inFinitely what Fi stands for?