Viperoni

Just because it doesn't make noise, doesn't mean it's not compressing. We're gonna go with a pair of 4's.

Thanks! 1.4 does seem a bit on the small side, but it models well in ISD online and in LSPCad, so I think we're gonna go ahead with that. Not sure if we *really* need a pair of 4" ports, but they would look good

I find I actually have to cut 1db at 2-3khz to get rid of a bit of high volume sibilance/sharpness. Could be the tweeters and the relatively low 1.9-2.2khz XO point, could be the woofers, I dunno. Could even be the factory mounting location behind the factory doorpanel. All I know is that I need that cut at higher volumes. My definition of higher volumes is probably louder than most peoples though

I had mine in 3.25cf at 38hz, and it did add a bit more midbass while taking away some of the low end. I dont remember what the subs model like, but something big, like 4.5-6cf tuned to 32-35hz should work out pretty well.

I've got em in the doors of my saturn, with Morel MT-1 tweets low on the A-pillars facing the driver with brackets that mount about 1" away from the pillar. Crossing at 2.2k 18db/octave, they sound pretty decent. I've got tons of power going to them and they take it great. HP at ~60hz 18db/octave and you should be good to go

So my friend with an 04 Ion RL wants a sub, and he wants it to fit in a sonotube, and have a pair of PVC ports come out the back, and along the bottom. We'll router out end plates that will act as supports for the sonotube/port, giving it a nice, finished kinda look. As for box sizes, the max we can fit is about 24" depth, which gives me about 1.4cf net driver volume. 4" PVC ports of course. 400 watts RMS off a JL e1400 amp. I'm thinking about tuning it to 35hz, which gives me a good balance between low end extension, bump, and port length (my biggest enemy right now, at 35hz they need to be 33" long). Anybody else have experience with these subs ported? Thanks

I'm sure Mark won't approve of me posting this, but I've hit a MAW15 in a 2.4cf sealed box with ~1200 watts RMS clipped music for over an hour straight, not a single issue. Of course it really didn't get louder after ~500 watts RMS due to motor limited excursion, but hey... that wasn't the point They'll do 600 a piece just fine, especially in sealed boxes.

I've seen him at a couple shows in the Toronto area too, pretty cool guy.

Jeez I'd love to grab that six pack of MLI65's....

I'd probably tune it around 30hz in that size box.

According to this calculator: http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31 Tuning the box to 33hz, a 4" port should be 8" long a 5" port should be 14" long Go with the 5" if you can.

4" might just make it for you, just make sure if you use elbows, you use a pair of 45 degree elbows instead of a single 90 degree, to try to keep airflow smoother.

Hehe that 18" enclosure looks WAYYYY bigger than the 15incher

Sweet

Here's the only pic I got: It does a good job, no port noise, infact there's not even that much port velocity. On the other hand, a 14.5x1.5" port does have over 21sq" of area, which is equivalent to over a 5" diameter port. Overall, we're both happy with the results Just need to carpet the box, and we're done.

Crazy kids, eh?

So the box is built, and the MAW15 is going off nicely Due to a lack of proper wood size (was using left over cuts in the shed), the box ended up being 3cf with a 14.5x1.5 slot port. That should tune it to ~33hz. I actually decided to make it taper a bit; the slot port starts off at 1.5" from the end of the slot (back of the box), and then expands out to 1.75" at the baffle. 1/2" roundover on the front edge, and 45 degree bevels on the back corner with sanding. From what very little listening we did to it, there was very little port noise, and the bass is good. It's definetely hitting high 130's in his civic sedan, and I wouldn't be surprised if we cranked up some test tones, a 140 would be in the picture. Overall dimensions are 29" wide, 16" tall, and 15" deep. This is just a pinch too big to fit properly into his trunk with the factory spare tire board; I'll put bevels on the corners of the box and that should solve the problem. He's definetely happy with it

I agree, it's clean, and PLENTIFUL.

I like mine too I've got a lot of high pass filtering on them, but I also have up to 200 watts RMS on tap for each one, and they do take the power very well. I only have a front stage, and I can get it to dim my lights

It's for a friends car stereo, he's got an all eclipse system with an XA-1000 amp (~500w RMS @ 2ohms) that will be powering a MAw15 in a ~3cf box tuned to 33hz. 14.5x2.5" slot port 24" long. Overall box dims will be 29x16x16. Should do quite nicely in his 99 civic coupe I'm kinda sad it's not for me though lol. Pics when we actually start building

My MLI65's are sitting in my doors IB style, and with ~ 30db/octave of highpass starting @ 80hz, they can soak up the 120 watts RMS I have on tap very well. I gotta post my system up here, just way too damm busy lately

I'm throwing about 60 watts RMS a piece at mine, and with 2x 12db/octave HPF's, one at 80hz and another cut at 50hz, they need more power. They go loud enough, but I'm willing to be they could go a bit louder (and handle the extra power) with ease. IB in my doors.

They're already sold. Their new home is a 91 caprice wagon... I can see a 9cf box in that trunk pretty easily... imagine that thing tuned to 30hz, the low end would be insane

Kinda sad to see em go, but now I not only have a father who doesn't complain about them taking up space, but I also have the opportunity to get something else to replace em I think a pair of MAW15's in the wagon would do very nicely, and they'd be a LOT easier to hide

Just give the MJ18's 500 watts RMS a piece, anymore won't harm the subs, but it won't give you anymore bass either. I recommend AT LEAST 3cf sealed per sub as well.