filtor1

I am looking for the mids right now. Here a few of the drivers I am looking at. Dayton RS150S-8 6" Reference Shielded Woofer 8 Ohm ($30.61ea.) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=295-362 Specifications: *Power handling: 40 watts RMS/65 watts max *VCdia: 1" *Le: .70 mH *Znom: 8 ohms *Re: 6.2 ohms *Frequency range: 45-3,500 Hz *Fs: 48 Hz *SPL: 88.0 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: .50 cu. ft. *Qms: 2.10 *Qes: .50 *Qts: .40 *Xmax: 4 mm *Dimensions: A: 5-15/16", B: 4-3/4", C: 3-1/4". Long-excursion motor and suspension for strong bass performance Subtle yet high-tech look makes a bold cosmetic statement Ultra-low stray magnetic field allows extremely close proximity to CRT's Designed and engineered in the U.S.A. Vifa P17WJ-00 6-1/2" Woofer ($45.20ea) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=297-305 Specifications:* Power handling: 70 watts RMS/100 watts max * Voice coil diameter: 1-1/4" * Voice coil inductance: .55 mH * Nominal impedance: 8 ohms * DC resistance: 5.8 ohms * Frequency response: 37-5,000 Hz * Fs: 37 Hz * SPL: 88 dB 1W/1m * Vas: 1.23 cu. ft. * Qms: 1.55 * Qes: .45 * Qts: .35 * Xmax: 4.0mm * Net weight: 2-3/4 lbs. * Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 6-5/8", Cutout Diameter: 5-3/4", Mounting Depth: 3", Magnet Diameter: 3-9/16", Magnet Height: 1-1/8". The Freq. Response for all of these is well within the range I am looking for, they actually go well under where they would be crossed at. I am also considering the Acsendant Audio mids. Although the impedance will be different with these it might work out in my favor as all of the amps I selected put out more power at 4ohms. I will need to sit down and look at my options for wiring. I have never had to figure it out for more than 4 speakers. Any help in this area would be appeciated. Any other driver combinations you would recommend? Edit: I just saw that PE has on closeout a 6.5" mid. I know it is of lower quality than the others I posted but man, $15 each. Here they are. I don't actually plan on these being the drivers. Just posting them as the lowest price point. Alesis 6-1/2" Shielded Carbon Fiber Cone Woofer ($15.00ea) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=299-164 Specifications: *Power handling: 75 watts RMS/150 watts max *VCdia: 1-1/2" *Le: .69 mH *Impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 5.9 ohms *Frequency range: 47-4,500 Hz *Fs: 47 Hz *SPL: 88 dB 1W/1m *Vas: .60 cu. ft. *Qms: 5.79 *Qes: .49 *Qts: .45 *Xmax: 5 mm *Dimensions: A: 6-1/2", B: 5-1/2", C: 4-1/4". Ultra stiff carbon fiber cone 1-1/2" voice coil Bucking magnet to provide shielding Aluminum former High power handling Out of these I would narrow them down to the AA mids, Vifa mids and the Dayton mids. It is going to be difficult to choose. Edit: I have eliminated the Vifa option and settled on either the Dayton or AA mid. It will come down to the final cost total of all 16 drivers. Both have the ability to fit this application as far as relative power handling and frequency responses.

I have had both very bad and very good experiences with Ebay. I haven't honestly decided if used is a good route. I know I can save myself a ton of money, but product support in the event of a problem would end up pissing me off. It would have to be exactly what I need and a rediculous price difference really. I will definitely cruise over there and check out what they have to offer. Thanks for the direction.

www.crownaudio.com Looks like Crown has a ton of possible solutions as well. I will list a few. 4- Crown CDi 1000's; (No Prices yet) 2 ohm Dual (per channel) 700*watts 4 ohm Dual (per channel) 500watts 8 ohm Dual (per channel) 275watts 4 ohm Bridge-Mono 1400*watts 70V Dual (per channel) 500watts 140V Bridge-Mono 1000watts With 0.5% THD *With 1% THD 2- Crown CTs 600's and 2- Crown CTs 1200's (No Prices yet) CTs 600: 2 ohm Dual (per channel) 150watts 4 ohm Dual (per channel) 300watts 8 ohm Dual (per channel) 300watts 4 ohm Bridge-Mono 300watts 8 ohm Bridge-Mono 600watts CTs 1200: (No Prices yet) 2 ohm Dual (per channel) 250watts 4 ohm Dual (per channel) 600watts 8 ohm Dual (per channel) 600watts 4 ohm Bridge-Mono 500watts 8 ohm Bridge-Mono 1200watts 4-DSi 1000's (No Prices yet) Stereo, 2 ohms (per ch.) 700*watts Stereo, 4 ohms (per ch.) 475watts Stereo, 8 ohms (per ch.) 275watts Bridge-Mono, 4 ohms 1400*watts Bridge-Mono, 8 ohms 950watts 2- XLS 202's and 2- XLS 602's (No Prices yet) XLS 202: 1 kHz with 0.5% THD Stereo, 4 ohms (per ch.) 300watts Stereo, 8 ohms (per ch.) 200watts Bridge-Mono, 8 ohms 600watts XLS 602: (No Prices yet) 1 kHz with 0.5% THD Stereo, 4 ohms (per ch.) 600watts Stereo, 8 ohms (per ch.) 380watts Bridge-Mono, 8 ohms 1200watts Man they have a seemingly endless suply of options. There were a ton more but were either way too much power for my application or pecifically designed for PA applications. I can already tell this project is going to take some involved desicion making. It appears that Rotel and Crown are the two I would narrow it down too. Mainly due to options and performance specific to my project. I will be putting up some options for drivers soon. As always, suggestions are very welcome.

No real resutls for the Acurus brand. I will keep trying. http://us.marantz.com/default.asp Marantz didn't seem to have anything that fit either. They had some smaller power amplifiers and lots of 7channel A/V receivers. Very sexy equipment. Adcom, http://www.adcom.com I found a possibility for the mids and highs: Adcom GFA-5400 (No Pricing yet) 125watts per channel, 8 ohms 200watts per channel, 4 ohms MOSFET output circuitry Tremendous 1.7dB headroom Unfortunately nothing substantial for the subs.

As do I my friend. I am sure you will be very high on the list to get pics. I am going to post all of my research as it may be a guide to others thinking about a similar project.

Next up is Parasound. http://www.parasound.com I didn't really find anything I thought to be perfect for this project there. The best I could come up with is this: 2- Parasound A21's (No Pricing yet) - 250 watts RMS x 2 @ 8 Ω - 400 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 Ω - 750 watts RMS x 1 @ 8 Ω(bridged mono) - Circuitry designed by legendary John Curl - THX Ultra 2 certified or 2- Parasound A23's (No Pricing yet) - 125 watts RMS x 2 @ 8 Ω - 200 watts RMS x 2 @ 4 Ω - 400 watts RMS x 1 @ 8 Ω(bridged mono) - Circuitry designed by legendary John Curl - THX Ultra 2 certified looks like this thread might get long. I hope you don't mind me taking some bandwidth up.

I am going to add to this post as I find some possibilities. Rotel: RMB-1076 (No pricing yet)

Better build quality, in my opinion as well as others Fair enough. I will rely on your experience. I am not confident about either of my receivers having a full range output. This may be time for me to invest in one that does. I will have to check the manual and do some investigation.

I totally agree. I have had some difficulty tracking down good array projects. Most people do full theaters where they chose different types of designs or they do big subwoofer projects. Both are great fun to examine, but lack of a dedicated room limits my projects for now. If you guys have some projects you think I would benefit from, please post the links. Back to some more general issues... Another thing I am very curious about is how the enclosure effects the Fs of a driver. In the link he mentioned the enclosure changing the FS of the drivers. I really would like to have a grasp of these concepts before the build. I am also not limited on the width of the enclosure as the builder in this case was. will the width of the baffle effect the dispersion? The reasoning behind the increased size of the woofers was a possible lack of bass due to the sheer volume of other drivers. If you don't think this will be an issue with the design, I will stick with the 4-10's. I am definitely interested in staying with the sealed alignment though. I have had great success with the sealed projects I have been involved with that weren't output related, personal preference I suppose.

I know you know the answer so I will just ask. What advantages do the Rane or DBX products offer. I am definitely not set on equipment selection, so this could definitely add some much needed demension to the project. I will do some additional research on the brands you provided as well as some price comparisons and post up what I find. It will be basic internet research but sometimes that is very helpful. Man I wish the house we are in had an appropriate spot for IB. Open floor plan with compound angles on the roof and limited space above would make that rather difficult to approach. My next house, I hope, will be built and designed with a listening room and HT room so I can pursue cool projects like these. As always, Thank you for your input. I think this project would never get off the ground without help from people like yourself. Chris

I just wanted to have some general conversation concerning a project I have wanted to do. This will not happen till the wife graduates this summer, so it is just for conversation sake now. She is supportive as long as it can be funded. I have this fetish for music. Music of all kinds. It can change my mood in an instant. I have always wanted to do something over the top. Something that is way more than I need. With that though I give you a solution. I found this searching though PE's DIY projects. I have always wanted to do a nice line array. I have also thought about adding subs to them to fill the bottom end. This is a possible sollution. The Collosi; http://www.partsexpress.com/projectshowcas...project=Colossi I don't have to stick to this exact design nor the selected drivers. If the selected drivers are the way to go, then so be it. this is their part list; Part # Description Qty 245-868 ART Cleanbox unbalance/balanced converter 1 2248-657 Behringer FBQ2496 Feedback Destroyer Pro 1 248-668 Behringer CX3400 3-way stereo crossover 1 264-702 Bohlender Graebener RD50 transducer 2 295-362 Dayton RS150S-8 6" woofer 16 295-462 Dayton RSS265HO-4 10" subwoofer 4 The text on that page says they chose these drivers due to their overlap in frequency extension to all for greater range of equalization and I assume blending. The overall construction doesn't seem to difficult. I have access to a table saw and other general tools. I can borrow a router if it is required. Oh, and I have help. Here is a list of what I currently own; HT duty: Yamaha RXV 2400 Yamaha DV-C6480 5- Boston CR-85's (fronts, center, rears) The receiver is capable of 7channels but the room prohibits this. 1- Dayton Titanic 15" subwoofer with PE 1000 watt plate amp Office: Sony GS57ES this was given to me and still has issues, it works so I use it in the office for stereo duty Kenwood 5-disk 1-bit CD player. This was bought in the early 90's. It also sucks, it works so... 2- Cerwin Vega VS-120's I am very suprised how well these have held up. They were perchased new in 1992. My goal here is to use the new speakers, from this project, to use as a stereo platform in the living room. I want something that is visually and audibly impressive and sound good enough to use as full time stereo speakers. My HT isn't bad at all, just lacks in real output when I want to jam. What do you think about the design? Do the drivers actually make sense? I would like this to be an open ended discussion. Feel free to contribute. Chris Updates will be posted in this thread as I make decisions about equipment: Amplification: I am going to go with the 2- Rotel RB 1072's and 2- Rotel RB 1092's. These seem to be a great match for this project and have excelent reviews from other users. Pictures and specifications are in post #8. Mids: I have chosen the new AA Carbon mids. I have been told they will outperform the Dayton's without question and will only be a few more $'s per driver. There are pictures of the older poly mids in post #16. I will get the pics of the new carbon mids as soon as they are available Subs: I have done away with the additional effort in construction and wiring options and chosen 2- single 15" AA Havoc's. I think this will mimic the output with "hopefully" better range. I know this will be enclosure/driver/and room dependent though. I have high expectations for this choice as well. I realize now that I am in no way limited to this design. I liked the approach and execution, but have decided to take some advice given here and from other freinds to vary things up a bit. Unfortunately the prices have all been raised as well. I am not 100% sure I want to spend $3K+ on a set of speakers before the build. Depends on the finances I suppose.

Looking good Jon. I look forward to your van causing further damage to my ears.

Looks awesome! Keep up the updates!

No room to port b/c he wanted to keep the amps as they were. The entire system was installed by a B&M to his specifications. The only thing I did was swap and wire the subs and replace his old HU and run new RCA's. These are temporary. So no real need to redo the install. He is going to look at a Nissan Armada tomorrow. If he gets that, we will most likely be doing 4-Q 15"s, or if he lets us wall it, 4-BTL 18"s. I am pushing for him to wall it.

It is. The mark was from the solos. Not sure what the white powder looking stuff is. I didn't even notice it until I looked at the pic. He is a pretty big guy so he used to keep the seat back with the old subs. Most likely resulting in its death. Before I took the pics, I made sure he wasn't too far back, he listened.

Here is a little background. The X's were purchased to replace a blown sub in the old treo of Kicker Solo-baric 12"s. These were a temporary solution so the owner wouldn't be without sound between now and the purchase of his new vehicle. Here are the box specs; 1.1cf after displacement, sealed with individual chambers for each sub. 14 ga speaker wire and wired to .67ohms. They are powered by a MMATS D300hc. Everything is controlled by an Eclipse CD7000. My initial impression was, wow, these actually sound a lot better than the solos. They played deeper without question, they just weren't as loud. I talked to Shawn later that day and he said to allow the suspension to break in and report back. I let the owner have the truck back and told him to beat the hell out of them. One week went by and I got the phone call, I had to have a listen. After bringing the truck by I noticed a marked improvement. They were indeed louder and sounded a ton better than the others. He just got here, we are going to go have a listen to a few different things he and I both like. Back in a few. OK, filled our bellies and listened to a ton of music. First up was Diesel Boy-Project Human. We picked this due to its quick punchy drums and wide range of low tones. I will say that you won't win any spl contests with these, but man they sound good. Very very tight. Handled the quarter beats and d&b without issue. One thing he and I both noted was how linear these were. I would say every bit as linear as my Q's. I have them crossed at 80Hz and 12db/octave slope. We messed around with different settings and both thought this was ideal point. We played a ton of different techno cd's after this. From Tiesto to DJ Baby Ann and they handled them all in stride. Next we played some rock. Chevelle, GodSmack, and some Pink Floyd. I feel like they had no issue keeping up with the drums in any of the tracks. So far they have shown no signs of fatigue. Lastly we played Gorilla Zoe. Hood N*gga was pretty impressive. This was the first time the subs let us know we were pushing them too hard. In that song the drums are very heavy and well above the level the bass line was recorded at. I backed the non-fader level down one and they no longer sounded stressed. I would rate this as a great daily sub. Very linear in output from 28-80Hz. I wouldn't give them more than 400 watts. That is about where we are and with a good recording at above normal listening levels they will tell you about it. I would say this is a great sub for the person who doesn't mind not being able to set off car alarm and enjoys a nice linear response. For the price, you really can't beat it if the sub meets your requirement. Hope this helps. If I left anything out, just post and I will answer. Chris

I promised a review of the Fi X series for those of you who are thinking about ordering some of the remaining stock. First here are a few pics:

It's your choice on which amp you buy. Either will work. I would opt for the 400 to give yourself some wiggle room though. In the end it is dependent on your budget.

think I know what it is, but just to clarify, wtf is it? lol Enable Avatars and check that puppy out for yourself. My description would do it no justice.

Feel free, your avatar is a nice addition to the thread.

I wouldn't do more than 400. They are definitely geared toward efficiency and sq than spl. We have 1200 going to a trio of X12"s and they are doing just fine. They will let you know when you are pushing them too far, so set your gains correctly and pay attention until you find the performance threshold. I should add that they are sealed too. I have no recommendations for ported, but I would venture to say less than 400 in that scenario.

True story. Most people would be amazed if they knew.

fbi for avatar of the month. Very nice.

Yeah, ATL is a bit far. I figured I would offer though. GL with the install. Feel free to ask questions, there are a ton of knowledgeable people that frequent this forum and are happy to help you out.

SEC, where do you live, town wise. Just seeing if I could be of any help to you if you are close to Gainesville, FL. As for the BL's I am sure you have read enough to know what they are capable of. The PCA2000d is a strong amp. I have been using one since February of this year on my pair of Q's and it has been strong. I am sure it isn't doing 2000 watts @1ohm as stated due to Voltage drop and impedance rise, but that is a whole separate issue. Overall, everything should work well together considering all the good advice that has been givin in the thread so far.