brent338

"whomever said the rl-p won't get any louder at 1250 wrms vs 500 wrms is silly." I e-mailed the company.... I do believe they can handle much more than 500 watts, Imo a close, if not better comparison to the Havoc, just look at the #'s. Don't get me wrong, the Icons are great subs for the $... but I'm looking for a little more.... cost is no option, I'd pay 2x the icon to get what im looking for... top choices at the moment are the; Inc. Death Penalty & Havoc. the Havoc being the best cost option, as well as best looking... while just running 1; 2500d amp.... with the death penalty being just a couple B@d A$$ drivers, that might even give a BTL a run for their money at full tilt, yet sound good off lower power as well. All while having the option of adding another 2500d down the road, if I feel the need.... which I probably will... I don't know why, but I'm just really liking the DP subs at the moment! with the havocs a close 2nd, that is if I can get them in dual 1's or 4's.

the Q with BP option, gets another 200-400 watts depending on application. so that would put it up there with the 1250 for the Havoc. but, both subs can handle a bit more power if set up right.

nice looking sub! so they can be had in dual 1's.... hmmmmmm.

yes no easy task... not too hard though. bumping at 150, obviously wont be on a regular basis, just to show off and and comps of course.... and most anything below that level; the two sets of MB Quart QSD 216's running on a orion 8004, are plenty loud...their killing/out-staging the subs that I'm running now. I'll make it happen, one way or another...

well i meant two 18"...of the 2500. IF I went 6" over my back seat I could net 11 cubes(if tuned low for 2-18"s), or 10 cubes if tuned higher for say maybe 3-15"s....just and idea. at level with my seat I get about 7.25 cubes, depending on tunning....which would be perfect for 2-15"s. and I'm kinda leaning to that route, 2-15"s I think that should be plenty loud... I guess my main goal is to get over 150 DB's on a TL., but still sound good for daily driving. an SS member said their RL-P drivers are not gonna get any louder after 500 rms, so that is out of the picture... as I'm working with 2500+ So, that leaves Fi; Q's, or BL's... A.A. Havocs, or possibly Incriminator DP's I'm pretty impressed with the DP's, very stout looking, great build quality, and puts up some great #'s off of minimal power, but can also take a beating but, being as new as they are not too many people who run them, so not a lot of feedback...but thats kinda what I'm looking for too....the "who makes that sub?" look... The havocs only come in dual 2's, so the amp would be seeing a .5 or 2 ohm load... I don't want to run it at 2 for loss of power reasons, and I might be able run it at .5, well after big three, 240A alt, and a optima next to the amp... but I'm not sure how the amp would take it. Which leaves Fi best reviews, best support, most wiring options.... ect. but everybody seems to be running them...maybe thats what I should do as well... IDK? tax return will be on the way shortly, so that will get things moving... still cant decide.... should just flip a coin I guess.

I'm running two of these "older models", and yeah the can get a little loud, but not too musical...imo. If you have two dual 4's then I'd opt for the 2500.1, as they can be wired to 1 ohm.... see the12volt.com for wiring diagrams. I think you have the airspace about right, offhand.... just fyi, I hit 146db...with those older models, on old meter and an MTX 2300 old school! maybe 750rms max.... as far as the "local shows" thing...imo you could a done better with any of the sub manf. featured on this forum.

SO, after too much measurements, calculations...ect. I could do a vented enclosure, 1.5" thick mdf all the way around, port it...and after sub disp., still net 5 cubes per sub. My question now is, what would be best in this "small box 4 sub" type of enclosure... RL-P, Fi Q, BL,.... would like to get loud but sound good, and these subs fit in that requirement 4 sure... "also need to see 1 ohm at amp(orion 2500D)" side note. or, maybe 2 DP's? more spl oriented of course. I was searching threw the SS forum, and someone said 5 cubes would be choking them...? is this true?, should I go Fi Q/BL w/options...? or should I stick with a couple 15"s...? as 2-15" properly boxed would probably be better then 2-18"s improperly boxed. thanks again guys for all the help!!!! also... why would a dual 4 sub have a higher BL then the same sub in dual 2's? BL is a measurement of motor force right so higher would be better...? so to say, two dual 4's wired to 1 ohm is > two dual 1's @ 1 ohm..........?

^ follow above guide lines, and go to REaudio.com box calculator, and plug/play with the measurements you have to work with, until it fits good and is tuned right! I would recommend 1.5" walls...

very beefy looking subs.... look and awful lot like.... FI?

thats what I figured....just wanted to check. thanks.

So have any SSA members played with this new sub? From the reviews I have read so far, its on par with a W7 output wise... but with great SQ. how would it compare with say a 15" Fi Q/bl or SS RL-P? If its comparing to the W7, then my first guess would be not at all(SQ, or SPL)...right? I have not heard any of these subs in person so its hard to make a decision....for the new build. leaning towards rlp's at the moment...

ok cool, didn't know they had a free box calc. out there... I played with the #'s a little, 44w X 25"d X 25" high, as thats about as big as I wan to go, and got 9.5 cubes, after sub disp. that leaves 9 cubes...need 10 min to do the 18". so I take a few more carefull measurements and see if I can squeeze another cube in there. if not then 15's i guess... thanks man!

I'd say 31hz would be about ideal for 18's... no/yes?

newb box help So I think I might be able to fit two 18" BL's @ the min. cubes of 5 per sub. just curious if I'm calculating the port disp. right... 12-16" per foot, so I shot down the middle with 14", which gives me about 1/2 a cube per port, but somehow this doesn't seem big enough... so how many cubes per sub for port? thanks...

dude ebay... seen RF 4000.1bd go for 1-1.2K RF power amps are very nice, but a Sundown 3000 could be had for less, and IMO a great amp as well... here is an RF 4000 for $1400... #300138544194 I'm plannig on a new build, with a Orion 2500d and two 18"s Q's or BL's/Havocs, but only have about 11 cubes to work with... might do some tweaking to get a couple more cubes to fit... cause; 18'>15's.

Stinger makes 3/0... check ebay 7.80 per foot.

music, but I want to be loud... I will be going to "local/small" comps I'm also debating a couple 2500, running a couple 15" btl's... but dont know if I wan to go that far... and what that would need to be powered properly...

OK. so I am just about decided on the new sub project. I have a jeep cherokee, with (2)mb quart qsd 6" sets, running of off an orion 8004. I have a optima yellow top under the hood, but stock alt, and wires from alt to bat. I want.... to run two 15" havocs off of a Orion 2500D. I'm going to run 1/0 under the hood, and to amp. and get ho alt. my questions are... #1. How big of an alt. do i really need, as anything over 240-250A gets spendy. #2. How many/what kind of battery's should I put next to the 2500d? optima? kinetic? #3. Are batcap's worth a damn(once again, mixed reviews)...? I have heard mixed reviews about the optima's, but Ive had mine for almost a year now without any problems whatsoever. I'm concerned about cheap/lesser bat. giving off fumes...is this true? #4. should run bigger/more wire to amps? I just want to do this right, the first time...thanks.

O.k. so after much researching.... an orion 2500D draws 300A of current at full tilt. Obviously there are not many 300A alternators out there, have seen a few 240-250 for my jeep, but that does not take into account the mid amp (Orion 8004), drawing probably another 100A, or the cars required 30-40amp draw to run smoothly. So kinetik says, a HC1400 up front and twp HC2400'sby the amp... for one 2500d and a 8004, sounds about right to me. I already have a yellow top...up front. I'm thinking a 240-50A alt. , 1/0 runs, and two batt. per 2500, should cover it.... just can't decide to go with 2-15"havocs+1-2500, or 2-15"BL/BTL's and 2-2500's...tuff one. probably would never fully use the BL/BTL's unless at comps, but sure would be fun... hmmmmm....

O.k. So I guess I only have 8.76 cubes to work with, so its 15"s for sure. now here is where I am lost.... How big of an alternator would be needed to run a 2500D? or two...? any H.O. Alt. manf. recommendations...? there is a calculator to figure this out I bet. one 2500d and a couple havocs would probably beat plenty hard, just need to know what I need to power them....

So I found an Orion 2500D, and its getting shipped out tomorrow... hopefully I can't really decide what to go with for the build, getting the most DB's outa what space I have... So ask the expert time.... Its a jeep cherokee, this is the space I have to work with... 43.5" in between the wheel well, 25" deep to tailgate, and 20" to top of back seat... that nets almost 13 cubes, before sub disp., port, 2x the walls...ect. if I go to 24" high, it gets to 15.5 cubes.... but would like to stay as low as possible. I would like to do 2, 18"s if possible, but feel this might be choking them... of course, Fi audio of some kind, or even the Havocs...which is fi anyway right? the 2500d wouldn't be too much for the q's or havocs? but I'm kinda debating adding another 2500 later anyway if I'm gonna do it right... I mean for putting this much $ into a system, 2x your amps is an easy automatic 3 db's... So I'm thinking maybe the loaded BTL's, and not worry about beating them up, how would they run off a single 2500 for a little while? should be fine right? what size sub...? thanks, guys!

Well the RF sold so I'll just go with the orion, already have a 8004 running the MB quarts anyway...and it rocks!!! So... now to my next question... sorry, as I have soo many.... SO I really like Fi, my fist idea was to go with the Q 18's, but... Those AA Havocs look so damn good, and basically the same sub manf., just a little beefier. Recommended RMS is 1250, so two would be an ideal match for the Orion 2500D...right? My problem is Box size, and If I can fit 18's, if I can I might as well...right? I have 43.5" width to work with, inside the wheel well. And 26" deep, from back seat to tailgate. and 20" tall to the top of back seat, could go higher if needed. Anyway that gives me 12.94 cubes externally...is that enough after port/ect....? If I go 24" high, that nets; 15.5 cubes... what do you think... 18's?

Well, I was planning on running two 15 or 18 Fi audio Q/Bl/Btl. On on a orion 2500D. but found a RF T30001 BD for like $750, seems like a good upgrade for not much more...right? opinions..?

A MOAB is Pierce Audio Products flagship subwoofer...

well, imo a bxi 1606 probably is about 1/2 of what a btl could handle... w/o big 3... your probably lookin @ about 1000rms max., and a btl is rated @ a conservative 2,000 rms. Do big 3; 1/0 wire, HO Alt.., Batt., and a bigger amp... then you wil see deffinate improvements! remember, meade is running like 4,000 rms to his btl's...