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haha ya i was gonna ask if you could help but you live kinda far away so i dont know how that would work where around KC do you live? i live in a small town about an hour east of KC... knob noster.

And rude too, pretty damn disrespectful to not follow the rules you agreed to when you joined the site. And of course, in those rules all of the information needed is defined. *if you are lazy, turn on sigs, there are links in mine lol i bet most of the people that joined this site didnt read the rules... like really grow up LOL if you needed/wanted info just ask for it... dont have to be a dick about it...

haha ya i was gonna ask if you could help but you live kinda far away so i dont know how that would work

lol ya i saw that a while ago... no way i could fit 2 21s though... so im happy with the 18s lol

lol thanks... actually the car stills moves pretty good after putting the subs in.... i can already do a hairtrick... i just think with a bigger box/bigger ports... it will do a even better hairtrick lol Yea i can imagine even with the extra weight that the car can still fly, bet the brakes were a pain the first time after the subs went in!! I know they were in my car, had an Integra with H22, with 2 12" SI Mags and Hifonics amp, all fiberglassed in hatch area, first time i installed everything and went cruising around, the brakes felt like they went out on me!!! Well any ways back to original topic!! As for measuring the space, if you are planning on going around all the nooks and crannies, you are going to need to dissect each section into its own portion. Well take alot of time and some pretty good math, but it is one of the best methods(that i am aware of) to measure everything. If you were to just stay inside the struts though you should be able to make a good rectangle area out of that and probably have enough space. But there will be no set in stone solution for your problem, it may require a rebuild or 2 if the first ones dont pan out to exactly what you want. So just be aware of that. My opinion would be the try and keep the box inside the struts and just put a sealing wall at the front baffle to reduce the cabin space and reduce the need for all the extra measuring, but that is just me, and what i would most likely do. Best of luck man, would love to see if once finished!! Keep me updated, please. haha ya the brakes felt the same with me... took me a lil while to get used to... definetly can tell the car has more weight to... takes more gas to get up a hill now... and with having 8:1 compression its soooo slow til the turbo kicks in lol...nice on having a h22 in a intergra... i was thinking about putting a h22 in my hatch... but after all the money and time it would of taken i just decided to rebuild my motor and turbo it... way more hp in the end lol... and ya that does sound like the best solution to keep it in between the struts... ill measure and see what how much room i have to play with... ill definetly keep you updated thanks for the help i was thinking if i cant build a good wall with 2 18s i wanna switch to 4 12s or 4 15s... but i just love saying i have 18s in my car lol...

well honestly its probably gonna sound the same if the port is on the bottom or the top... and i dont care how knowledgeable he is... i know their is other people on this site that is just as or smarter than him so i really dont need him... and how do i measure the width when its gonna be different all through out the car ??

lol thanks... actually the car stills moves pretty good after putting the subs in.... i can already do a hairtrick... i just think with a bigger box/bigger ports... it will do a even better hairtrick lol

funny how immature people can be... and i need to know what kind of detials you need... you act like i should know everything about car audio... sorry im not a guru like most of the people on here... thats why im asking questions... to learn...

Now I see why you are opposed to "bashing" in threads as you are too lazy to bother to make a good one or search yourself. Geometry hasn't changed for years. Of course curves can mean many things so its pretty hard to respond. Tons of tricks, but some specifics would help. Try it both ways. Best way to really determine. If you want to know more of why, perhaps explain what you want to achieve, what you have for space, where it goes, etc. etc etc. As for its own chamber. Pros and cons. Again, don't know which would apply to you, but if I have to make an assumption on what you've given us its that you can't do geometry very well so with what you've given us I'd say put them in the same chamber. if your gonna be a douche just dont post on my threads...k...thx... and try it both ways ?? what do you mean by both ways....port on bottom and then try it on top ?? im not gonna build a box... then rebuild it just to find out it sounds the same.... i want to hit atleast 150db.....how do i measure the space i have ?? as you can tell the top of the car is wider than the bottom cause of the struts...

mainly for demo's/hairtricks...its going in my daily driver so i just want something loud and low... plan to tune to 28-30hz... not my car... but im talking about going around the rear struts...

if you like the LOWS go with 30hz

so im planning on building a wall in my civic soon just want some tips... how do i calculate the box when theirs curves i have to go around... also should i have the port on the top or the bottom of the wall ?? also does each sub need its own chamber ?? i have 2 18s so does the wall need a piece in the middle to seperate the subs ?

i cant lower the front as i said a few posts back. bad shocks dont let your front or rear squat... the springs do. shocks just keep the tires planted on the road when hitting a bump and absorbing shock. gotcha... maybe get a set of coilovers for the back and raise it ?? or do you like it the way it is.

ya actually when i got my mechman alternator it had 2 studs... one for a line from the alt to the pos. terminal.... and one for a line from the alt to the neg. terminal on the battery....

ya anything over 1500w i would use 1/0 gauge wire...

i would lower the front to match the rear... looks kinda funny sitting like that... like the rear shocks are bad lol

i agree... i got banned on smd's forum for "bashing" some guy cause his system was pathetic... i was stating my opinion and there butts got hurt... o well

Its only bashing when you read it with emotions ok well look at this whole topic... everyones post has emotion in it... thats why people are getting offended..

no reason to bash on accord just for stating his expierence though... you can try to correct him nicely... but no reason to be a bitch (no offense)... i thought this forum was for helping people... not bashing people...

8 gauge ftw ... lol 12 gauge will work just fine though..

how much room you got to work with ?? ?" x ?" x ?"

for the amp i would get a hifonics brz2400.1 off ebay... i bought mine for 320 bucks each bnib...they work great for the BTL for the battery... get 1 good battery... XS Power D3100... and just wire it to your starting battery... you shouldnt need to upgrade your alternator... but i would put in a volt meter so you know how much volts your running...at full tilt you should try to be above 12v...you could upgrade just to be safe... mechman has the best alternators make sure to do the "big 3" for your sub... get a Dual 2 ohm sub and wire it to 1 ohm on the amp...

haha very funny...

Two things suck here. 1) Your idea that this is a new thread 2) Your buddies capabilities in designing/building/buying a box dont be a douche lol... hes just stating his experience that Fi is better than the type r's..