allConfused

wow i just multiplied 1.3CF by 20 and 30 percent( this is the increase most say you get with an effective polyfil job) and after displacement my box would be like 1.6-1.7CF will polyfill really do that or am i smokin crack?

well i got it up to 1.3CF after displacement without redesigning the whole box so thats as big as it gets hehe. should be a bit of a step up from 1.25

what differences would i notice with a 12 inch with these differnt box sizes, 1.0CF, 1.3CF, 1.5CF would i loose any sound quality or puchiness as i went bigger? i ask becuase i found a way to make a bit more space in my truck and as you all saw my box design in another post it ended up around 1.25CF after displacement. if you think it will make a "good" difference i can crank it up to about 1.3-1.4CF after displacement.

time for more reviews!

i know i posted this befor but no one replied to it. anyone know of any nice looking "STRONG" grills for the magnum subs i could buy. 12 inch version of course. i wanna make sure at full excursion the sub wont touch the grill. i wanna make sure dumb @$$'s cant ruin my subs by dropping a backpack or something on them.

uh i just came across a person saying this in a thread i was reading in sound domain. its in regards to fiberglass insulation. "I used it once, BIG MISTAKE!! The fibers got into my VC and the motor strucure of my 12W1 and f*cked it up, now it pops and sounds bad with anymore than 50wts. Don't do it, use pillow stuffing."

since fiberglass insulation is a denser material than polyfill will it take up any internal volume?

what benifits do staples have over screws?

man maybe the wood glue i used last time sucked then. is there different strengths of wood glue?

are you serious? i thought the top grade liquid nails was about as good as you could get. but wood glue is better?

yes but i asked about polyfil wasnt sure if the fiberglass insulation could touch. i guess ill go for screws if i must though. how many should i have per side

yeah i wanted to go all out and get it perfect the first time. why do you think i should bump it to 1.5 cubes? and i was thinking of skipping srews all together and using the strongest grade liquid nails for wood. for mounting the sub to the box i was gunna use bolts with locking nuts on the other und so i dont ever strip the wood or anything and i was gunna use rubber 0-rings around the back and front of the box on the bolts to ensure that airtight mount. by the way if i got an airtight fit technically i shouldnt be able to push in my cone at all right? and he nick you told me to put a layer of fiberlass insulation around the walls. its ok for that to touch the sub right? becuase as you can see in he picture at the top of the bright teal line the magnet is only 1.7 inches away from the wall and it possible the insulation might stick out that far and touch it. if its bad to touch ill just cut a small part out of the insulation.

Key Box Width( not shown in pic) is 18.5in external, and 17in inside box Blue line at top of box: aprox 5.83 in. Red line at top of box: 6 in. Blue line at bottom of box: aprox 10.16 in. Red line at bottom of box: 10 in. Blue line on inner left wall: 18 in. Bright Green on slanted face: 12 in ( aprox sub mounting space) Connected slanted red lines on slanted face: 6in per 2 lines Top slanted blue line from floor to slanted face (Brace) 8 in. Bottom slanted blue line from base to slanted face(brace) 5 10/16 in. Those 2 slanted blue lines i just mentioned are 1 piece of wood. its just the measurement of the top of it and bottom of it. Red line connected to top and bottom slanted blue lines: 2 inch. dimensions for thickness of that brace is 2inx1.5in The Black line from top to bottom inside box is 18in. this is a sqaure brace touching all 4 sides of the box. its 1.5 in think as stated on paper by 2 inches thick. Bright teal line on the box inside sub box: 8 inches( represents where the sub maget should end) Light teal lines going into box in sub box: 6.75 inches( The end of this line is where the sub would end if the sub where a box) The height of the box outside is 19.5 in. The depth of the bottom box wall outside is 11.5 in. the depth of top outside box wall is aprox 6.83 in. The slanted front wall outside box is aprox 19.97 in. total CF after all bracing, drivers, and slanted wall, except the braces from bottom of box to slanted wall is aprox 1.286CF ill have the slanted wall bracing figured out soon. i expect it wont be greater than .03CF with this design i figure after polyfill i will be around 1.3-1.32CF? ? post all comments and sugjestions please thanks! if you got any questions lemme know

ok last question and i should be done. i was gunna buy edead v3.0 to coat my fiberglass kickpannels in. i was highly recomended to do this so i figured i might as well do it to my sub box? to seal it nice and airtight. putting the liquid edead 3.0 would help sq right? and buy the way what is the diameter of the magnet on the 12 inch sub. and how many inches into the depth of the sub does the basket end. or at least i think thats what its called. the big metal "basket looking thing" that cases the cone.

how thick should i line it on the walls. 1 inch? 2 inch? and then i just dump the polyfill in the middle? its not bad for the polyfill or anything to touch the sub is it? or should i like use that metal wire stuff to make it to where the polyfill cant touh it?

why would you line the walls with insulation?

is there any way to estimate how many CF bigger your box thinks it is with certain amounts of polyfil. so i can try and guess how big my box thinks it is while im testing out different amounts of polyfil?

it appears i have found my mistake in subtracting the angular part of the box. these new confirmed by multiple people internal vulume after displacement is 1.196CF approximently. this now leaves me some room to add that polyfill/fiberglass insulation. what i changed was how i figured out volume of peice of box being cut off by angle. becuase i was wrong befor also instead of 2 seperate braces i am now using the same shape brace but im using my 3/4 inch mdf instead of 1 inch. and i will glue 2 of the together so its like 1 brace thats 1.5 inches thick. this way i can use all the same wod for boxes and braces. and it makes it eaier to fit. fitting 2 of them braces would of been a pain and i was told for this small of a box i only need 1. the orignal wood piece is 17x18x.75. then im cutting out a 15x16 inch box from the 17x18 sheet so it will have 2 inches all the way around left over.. ..that sound good? i also heard using a round shape in the wood had better effects than a sqaure shape? is this true. now this just hit me to and i really am not understanding how this works. can anyon help me out. this message came from another forum. by the way the inches hes refering to for internal dimensions are for the depth of the box. since its a wedge the top and bottom pieces of wood are different legths . "Hate to tell you this but: Something is still not right. The thing here is when you have a wedge box the internal dimension cannot be 5.5" and 9.5" when the external dimensions are 7" and 11". It's not possible because of the angles that are needed when the MDF is cut. To get completely accurate dimensions takes some time and thinking. It isn't a big deal and will not make an audible difference, but I just want you to be aware that it is there- for when cutting the MDF. It is best to draw up the box and fill in #s. Imagine just the top board for the box. Think of how it looks when the angle is cut into it to for the front of the box. You have 2 different lenghts for the board- a top and bottom part(side view of MDF- looking at .75" thickness). Now going further, since that angle is in the MDF think of that angled part. It is not .75" anymore- it's bigger on the angle. You need to get to this # in order to go back and complete the rest of the internal dimensions. "

what is resonance? and can i add just a small amount of polyfill stuff to help with resonance but not add to much to volume. i spent hours geting everything just right to make it 1.31 cubic feet becuase thats what i was told to get to by a knowlegdable person who owns a magnum.

ok so with this new 3/4inch wood design i just posted ill wind up with approximently 1.31 cubic feet of air space once the displacement of all the braces, driver, and 80 degree angle is subtracted from the original airspace of the box. that sound good? im going for all out sq( hopefully not loosing much low end) pushed by a hifonics brutus bx1000d( that seems to be a popular amp for midrange cost)... if this box seems good(or very good hehe) to you, would you recomend recomend adding polyfil or fiberglass insulation or whatever. why or why not. thanks for aLL THIS HELP GUYS!

cool thx for the reply. i had a few peopl tell me that these D2's didnt drop very well but its not like ive heard many instals and cars that do. hell my brother infinity intal is a chity one. and its plenty low for me. im not after low end but more for accuracy. if get lower than his sub t will be more than enough. i belive his is like 1.5 cubic feet. by they way my dads a contractor and he told me mdf sucks. i toldhim about the project and as soon as h heard about bracing the box he was like ok, you need to use better would than mdf. he told my that if i was to use plywood, i tink he said plywood, that it would be much stronger. so why do people use mdf if this is the case. does it sound better?

by the way the d2 would be in this box i designed.( sealed) internal dimensions are 17x18x9 inches. front of box slanted at a 80 degree angle. one square brace, 3-5 inches into the box depth. the walls painted with ED liquid exterminator. with this i calculated approximently 1.2895058 sqaure feet befor subtracting how much space the driver takes. up. in fact itw uld be nice if someone coul tell me how many sqaur feet thi driver takes up. so in essence it should wind up around the 1.2-1.4 cubix feet category after i add the polyfill and whatnot.

one thing stands in my way of a 12 inch d2. low low end. i wanted to know how this subs low end compares to a infinity kappa perfect 12.1d my bro has that sub and as long as i can runble as low and be as loud whil being low as that sub, im content cuase his sub low end lvl is fine for my ears. stuff to give examples for you to compare on is like the intro to evanesecne song wake me up in side. that a low rumble or say the huge bassline right befor the drums come in on angels song from sevendust. i dunno if this would qualify as really low but i know metallicas song the sand mans intro bass drums are the most low hardcore bassdrums ive ever heard. hows a d2 on something like that. by the way i can not fit a 15.