JohnHinerman

Thats crazy... So what are some amps that may have this problem???

According to PowerBass 3XL product info, a Class D amplifier heats a subwoofer voice coil 2 to 3 times hotter and faster than a class a/b amplifier. Is there any truth to this? I'm not an electrical engineer, nor a amp design expert, but I've never heard this before. http://www.powerbassusa.com/3xl-series

What is a Fi X 12? Older driver?

It is a 2010 model. Doesn't get a lot of use, only in the summers. I rarely have played any CD's in it at all. Anytime I switch to the CD source, it plays that DD-1 disc fine.. Reset does nothing... Not happy! lol

I inserted my DD-1 disc into the KDC-X494 in my boat to set levels, and the CD won't eject. I press the eject button but it acts like I'm not pressing anything. Doesn't display eject or make any attempt to when I press it. It just ignores my pushing of the button. I tried pressing the reset button under the face, but no help. Any ideas? Is is a common Kenwood issue? How do I get my disc back!?

I agree. Also less labor if the customer is on a budget.

Thanks! I don't know if that is exact, it was hard to measure inside with a tape I appreciate it again!

My brain is fried from this long week. I can't even think enough to try to figure this out. If someone can tell me I'd owe them one of the beers I'm about to drink. Here is a picture. These are internal measurements. I just need to know the volume of this thing. Thanks in advance!

Hey guys, I need two 10" woofers for my boat. Replacing the old ones. Here are my requirements - Dual 2ohm or Single 4 ohm coils - Amp is providing 300w RMS per woofer. - Best bang for the buck I'm low on funds for this one. I can get Comp VR 10's for about $65 each. Are there any bargain's out there that I could look for? Can I do better than the Comp VR's?? I'm open for any brand, doesnt matter. I'd like to not spend much more than say $75-80 each. Suggestions please!

Stefanhinote, my measurements are internal measurements, (inside the box, the port walls act as the internal walls. I calculated about 2.12 ct foot for the enclosure, and port volume of .64 cu foot Am I doing something wrong?? So not including the woofer (not sure how much volume it takes up) I'm coming up with ~38hz tuning. There is also about 2lbs of poly fill in it. I'm not sure what the woofer displacement is, but

If I did it right, it should be about 40.5hz??

Anyone be able to give me an idea of what this enclosure may be tuned to?? I have a picture and a sketch with the measurements I took. The bottom right drawing is the port. It is shaped like an L, and above that I was trying to show that it is 16" in height. Any help would be great. Just trying to get a rough idea of what this enclosure is all about. It a "Turbo Vent" enclosure, could not find anything on the internet about them.

OFC.

lol omg I am retarded. I measured the leads, then saw that there was some metal debris on them. Cleaned the connections, checked again. 0.000 ohms. Now I'm getting 1.0ohm parallel, and 1.9 per coil. So disregard this whole thing lol

I have an Alpine SWR-1022D and a SWR-1023D Dual 2ohm woofers. I just checked each woofer. If I wire the two coils in series, I get about 5.6 - 5.8ohm. Parallel is 1.7ohm. Both speakers are very close to being the same coil resistance. I'm just wondering how my Dual 2 ohm coils are so far off from the resistance that they should be. Why such a higher resistance?

lol Here is a 10" RF P1 (magnetic plastic-make-my-motor-look-huge-cover removed) and a 10" Pioneer Premier something

He is very excited, I guess it will be a learning experience. However, just ran into a snag which I'm not sure if it will get corrected by the 5th.... The car is a ZX2, and the woofer setup consists of (1) 15" Power Bass in a vented enclosure, and (2) 12" Kenwood's in sealed enclosures. The way everything is setup, the PB 15" is getting 750w and each 12" is getting 375w. The car is pretty damn loud..(I should say was). Just melted the voice coil on the 15" sub, which really hurts the bass output lol Trying to replace it with a Kicker Comp VX by the weekend, but not sure if it is going to make it. One other thing I didn't really think about is the actual SPL. I have no idea how loud this thing is, nor do I even know if it would produce 120-129.9 db. One thing I never paid attention to was MAX SPL, and there for I have no real reference to how loud it is, other than the fact that in my opinion it is loud. Anyone have any guess as to what this setup could possibly produce? Is 120db out of range for something like this?

I thought I was reading Bass Race?? Here is the link... http://www.termpro.com/dbdrag/rules/2012/rules.asp?Org_ID=1&Format_ID=2&Season=2012&Section=7&ClassFilter=0

A good friend of mine wants to enter his vehicle in an up coming event. He has never done this before, and neither have I. Reading through the rules and trying to figure this all out without ever being there is a little difficult. From what I can see, the Bass Race looks like it is less complicated than db drag racing. Am I correct? From what I can see, you play whatever you want (except test tones) for 30sec and the meter will average your SPL for that 30sec. And whomever you are paired up against does the same thing. Just like bracket racing. The Db drag racing looks like it is much more involved. Can someone explain what to expect when doing this for the first time? Does the owner sit in the vehicle ? Can any musical track be played? What are some tips that someone might want to know. Thanks!

Id prefer a USA built driver. From what I've read the SA woofers are imported. It looks like the SSD may actually be more efficient than the Gcon? the spec is negligible, but would it be safe to say they would provide about the same output at the same 750 watts??

That is pretty crazy if 15.4v is putting it into protection. It sounded like a speaker wire may have been shorting to the basket or another wire or something, but with everything unplugged, I guess that can't be a reason. I would think most amplifiers would not have any problem if the alternator voltage jumps to 15.4. My PCM controlled truck all the time while playing my system loud and have never once had either amp go into protect. Interested to see what CA says if he sends it back....

Wow, Sorry for the blow up on my last post lol I was trying to find out a little more about the SSA woofers. I read great things about them on these forums, and what Fi has to do with manufacturing couldn't matter less to me. I joined this site after I placed my order for my SSD 10s. I was really not familiar with either companies, but I just happen to stumble across both brands while looking for drivers for my new vehicle. Now, all that aside, not looking for another locked topic. My original questions was how the new G-Cons would compare to the SSD drivers. I know they are new, and there prob isn't much for customer reviews. My main question I was looking for was where do they fit in compared to other drivers out there? I am getting ready for another build, and was going to use SSD's once again, but then I received an email about the new G-Cons which are similarly priced. The price is right for what I am doing, but was looking for some suggestions or ideas for drivers in that price range and thought I'd take first look at the new G-Con. Since I've never seen or heard any other SSA woofers, the only thing I have to compare to are my two daily drivers. one of which is SSD10's in a vented enclosure, and the other that is an Alpine Type R 10 driver. That being said I guess, what are some of the targeted competition for the G-Con, and in that price range is there one that may be considered "better" than another? I am very happy with my SSD woofers, but wouldn't be against trying something new. Thanks

I understand. In general, how do the two brand names match up?

Similarly priced, and somewhat similar specs. How do these two woofers compare?

Wires burning up with 1/0 Cable and that amp are not from too much current being drawn through them. *I don't think* wires burning like that sound more like a short to groud, on something grounding through that circuit. Check engine and body ground resistance. I would also check your ground resistance at your amp and see what it looks like on a DMM. Other than that, I think you need to just start eliminating parts untill you can trace it down? I don't think a lower output alternator would cause this issue.