slidestarr

After 2 years of selling my BTL N2 it finally went up for sale and I bought it back from the guy I sold it to originally. He only used it for 3 months then it sat collecting dust in his garage. Not bad for $300 with a box.

Nevermind, I just looked at my order history from fi and its regular price.

Just checked the website and noticed all the subs are on sale!

Awesome thread, I give it a 7/10 would read again.

Sometimes company's quality deteriorates over time; is this an example with their amps? Or are their amps still really good? This amp is around a year old. i sold the amp to a friend of mine 3 years ago and its still wired to 0.5 ohm and getting abused daily on less than ideal electrical. you got PM

DD amps with LV technology are made to be efficient at 12volts and they come alive at .5 ohm. Couple years back I had a M3a on a single 55ah agm batt, 2 gauge wiring, stock alt wired to .5 ohm and it never went into protect or shut off. They love abuse

My first introduction to fi was a 15" BL then upgraded to a BTL n2 15" after 1 month of wanting.It was powered by a M3b at .5 ohm 6cubic ft box 8" aeroport 33hz port tune and it was a night and day difference. When playing white girl by jeezy it would slam the highs and rape the lows on that song and it made realise I had to step up my deadening game in my car. I also used a SP4 shortly after and output wise the BTL still wins, till this day I regret selling that sub and hope fi brings it back.

what is the specs on your box? I have a ssd on 800watts and its plenty loud.

VAS on your T/S is that litres or cubic ft.

Are your subs made in china or built in the USA?

I've had a fully loaded BL and it was no where near the BTL N2.

I loved my old btl's and wanted to know if you guys are planning to release a 2k RMS 12" sub in the future.

Digital Designs m3b should be good, they do rated power at 11.9 volts.

I have a XS Power as a starting battery, 2 runs of 0gauge to my rear batt which is a Deka. I'm wanting to add another deka in the rear and wanted to know if I need to do 2 runs of wire to connect the rear batts together or will 1 run suffice. Thanks

I had a Sa-15 then bought a BL 15, the BL hit the lows with authority and had way more motor force than the Sa15. The only downside with the BL is it required alot of port area, I had mine in a 4.4 cubes net with 89in2 of port.

Can't wait to try these subs out!

With 33W x 14.24H x 24.25D you can get 4.5 cubes net 34hz tune with a 8" x 20" flared aeroport, more than enough for 2 12's.

That is nowhere near enough port area. You can get away with less on a flared aeroport and plus the OP will be using it on low power.

Have you considered using a single 4" precision aeroport? they require less displacement than a standard slot port.

I've tried all orientation for my trunk car and the loudest so far is sub firing forward port firing passenger side wheel well.

You should also check out DJ slow and throw, www.djsnt.com nice remastered versions with slowed versions as well.

Because of the BTL N2 I never realized how inadequate my sound deadening was, so for this I thank the BTL series for making me blow a butt load of money on deadener. R.I.P.

It sucks the build time is over 20 days right now, I just sold my BTL N2 and looking to order a pair of Fi Q 12's but don't want to wait 3 months.

5 cubes net tuned to 32hz and ample amount of port area, BL's have alot of motor force.

what are you using as a basis for "motor force"? just curious BL*BL/re