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Mike P.

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Everything posted by Mike P.

  1. Mike P. replied to brynm's topic in Ascendant Audio
    I phoned Dale about a Havoc 18 a couple of days ago, super nice guy. For as much as a Havoc 18 weighs, shipping prices were great too!
  2. That amp has been tested and only puts out 580 watts. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....49#post13714349
  3. Click on the last pic at the bottom of the page, all the measuremets are there. http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?ma...products_id=186
  4. WinISD Pro. Free and excellent help files.
  5. Same width and depth, double the height for 2 subs.
  6. There is a design for that sub in the E.D. HT forum. Build this plan in double height and put both ports on the bottom. http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php...hlight=cheapest
  7. That shouldn't happen. That's false information leading people to believe products are going to be available when they're not. Just my opinion.
  8. RL-i 8 Dual 4ohm is showing in the SSA shop as "New Products For Septmenber". Hopefully soon.
  9. "New Products For Semptember" shows the RL-i 8 Dual 4ohm. So we'll be seeing them in the store soon, correct?
  10. I've been torturing mine in a home theater sub and that hasn't been a problem.
  11. They're not posted yet. Should be coming soon.
  12. It was a halloween costume. http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,406101,00.html
  13. http://incriminatoraudio.com/update/index....age=3&cat=2 Wow. I don't know how I missed that. Thanks though I'm pretty sure those recommendations are for car audio. Tuning a HT sub to 32-37 Hz makes no sense.
  14. Mike P. replied to splmark's topic in Home Audio
    If you really want the low end output for HT, take a look at what people are building. How well a sub will perform depends on its parameters. Lots of examples here to give you an idea: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy...r-database.html
  15. That is Josh's sub. 25 cubic feet, if I remeber correctly. Built by FunkyWaves. http://www.funkywaves.net/custom.cfm
  16. Mike P. replied to audiolife's topic in Ascendant Audio
    Description of wiring options for the Atlas 12 and 15. http://web.archive.org/web/20050307070748/...dard+wiring.htm
  17. Pro audio and home audio horns. http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/
  18. It would help for people to know what year and model you're looking for.
  19. The sonotube I used for this "retrofit" was from a Shiva build and the net volume of this tube (height) is not ideal for the IXL-12. The problem is with the vent airspeed being too high with only one 4 inch port. With a single 4 inch flared port with an input power of 360 watts, the port airspeed is way past the point of compression. A proper designed HT cabinet for this sub should be 4 cubic feet net volume tuned to 20 hz with two 4 inch flared ports 39 inches long, or a slot port the same length with an area of 25 square inches. With this porting airspeed would be 21 m/s at 20 hz with 500 watts of input power. If input power were to be increased to 800 watts, the Xmax would still be within limits and the airspeed would be 26 m/s, just below the point of compression. A subsonic filter would be needed at 18 hz with this design. A sonotube build is not out of the question, but incorporating two 4 inch flared ports 39 inches long would be a challenge. The use of elbows would probably be required. As for finishing the sonotube, I did it the easy way. Both endcaps were primed with a latex primer and then I applied two coats of latex semi gloss black paint. The tube was also primed and painted black, and then covered in grill cloth. The cloth is wrapped around the tube, overlapped an inch or so, and fastened with velcro.
  20. Ask him and find out. http://www.affordabledrivers.com.au/index....page=contact_us
  21. Canada is like your virgin sister, still clean and pure.
  22. With 600 watts input the air speed is 36 m/s with a single 6 inch port. With two 6 inch ports the air speed is 18 m/s. If you're going for SPL then go with the dual ports.
  23. Here's a few sonosub builds. http://www.io.com/~patman/sunosub.html http://dustin.bunnyhug.net/sonostart.php Notice the use of ready rod to join the endcaps in the above link. Not many doing that anymore as a double layer of MDF on each end is strong enough. Here is some free software to help with the design of a sonosub. http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sonosub.htm Also do a search on Google "Images" for sonosub to give you an idea on the different types of finishes.

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