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We put some of that suede on the door panels also, turned out pretty cool. Car sounds awsome and dead quiet. I am pretty impressed with the sound deadner from elemental designs. Factory materiel being held in place cause I forgot to take a before pic Redone with the suede Thanks for looking, Lee

Got it done today!!!!! Finished amp rack Turned out pretty cool but we are not getting the numbers we wanted. Not completely done yet, still need a high output alt. I will post his score after the show on Sunday. If anyone reading this is interested, the show is in Mandan ND. Thanks for looking, Lee

I have been building my brothers blazer for stereo competition. I have the build in the build log area under "walling an s-10 blazer". The system is Four MA Audio 802sx amps (about 2500 watts RMS) to four 15inch fully loaded BLs with the SPL option and they are dual one ohm. The amps are then running at 1/2 ohm mono. They are in a 23 cubic foot box with a port mouth of 32 x 9 inches and it is 2 1/4 inches deep. Our best test score today was a 153.7 at 51 hz. We tried longer ports but the one we started with is the loudest so far. We have not tried making the port mouth smaller and it can not be any bigger. We also have not tried putting stuff in the box to take up cubic feet. The amps are still dipping down to about 10 volts off of four Napa orbital blue top marine batteries. We have not upgraded the stock alt yet either. Any suggestions on how to get louder? We were shooting for 160s. Thanks, Lee

We kicked a little ass yesturday and got the amp rack half done and all the wiring done. This is what it will end up looking like except with carpet Another home made fuse panel, not quite as fancy as the other one, but still effective Here is all the wiring before it all gets hidden Half way there at midnight, finishing up today with a comp coming this sunday I will try and get the rest of the pics up tonight and some show results up Monday or Tuesday.

Finished out the trunk and it sounds awsome. With so much amp, we have a ton of head room and it is super clean and tight. Tuned the box to about 37hz, and covered the panels in suede.

Been really busy lately. With the weather and again nothing showing up on time still put the build farther and farther behind. We did get a little accomplished this weekend, till we ran out of carpet and wood. Got the wall finished and the almighty FIs mounted. Started on the battery/amp rack. Got two more batteries and three more amps to get in there.

I am waiting for a chance to get some clear plexi to make a top. Thanks for the looking out though. Lee

My little brother is putting a system together for this years competition season. He will be competing in USACI's street beat. Its a 2003 (I believe) Hyundai Accent. He is using a real basic pioneer deck for now with an update in the future. Two runs of 0 gauge running back to a single US-AMPS 6000 pushing a single Hyfonics Goliath 15. Here are a few pics of the progress so far. We are a little behind because of orders not coming in, but it should be done in a week or so. I used the RFL for comparison only, its the first sub to come close to its size but still just a little bigger. We are finishing the trunk in black suede and the amp will "float" behind the sub which will be mounted upside down. I guess thats it for right now. Lee

The subs are dual one ohm. So 1/2 ohm for burping but I would assume with a slightly higher than that resistance on the voice coils and box rise it will probably be around 1 ohm. We are putting in four group 31 optimas with the four runs of 0 gauge power and 0 gauge ground bolted to the frame. One more group 31 up front with a 250-300 amp alt in the near future. He ran three of them last year at one ohm off two red tops and one stinger 1700 with only one run of four gauge and a stock 60 amp alt. If it was on a charger the night before the comp, the amps would drop down to a little over 11 volts on a burp and around 9 volts playing music for drive by in MECA. They are really hungery amps but so far they are bullet proof and 100% reliable. Lee

Got a few things done in the last two days, but not as much as we would have liked... We got the four runs of 0 gauge ran, most of the box built (we ran out of MDF), and the headliner back in. Finished fuse holder Box from the inside, about 20 cubic feet after double walling the inside before sub and port displacement Box from the back, and you can see the four runs of power wire on the right. We are having a hard time planning the install of the four amps and four batteries in the back, but I think we got it. Hoping to get one of the three faces done tommorrow to give the box a total feel. I would like to get a good start on the back part but we will see.

To tell you the truth, I have never heard the RFL. I bought it without much research, now its only being used for size comparisons on other subs. I hope to power it up some day, or just sell it, which ever comes first. I will let you know how it compares to my brother's old install..... This was in a 79 RX-7 with a best of 153.2, if I remember right. We are shooting for 160 with the blazer. I hope we get it or he says I'm fired. LOL

I don't expect to win or anything but I started a build log called walling an s-10 blazer. I can't say to much about the subs because I haven't heard them yet but they look like a great build and they have the biggest tinsel leads I have ever seen. Thanks for the awsome product and will let you know what the blazer does in about two weeks at its first competition. Lee

Me and my brother have been working on a little project, thought you guys might like it... First off, the equipment. Four FI 15 inch BL subs, fully loaded. Powered by four Ma Audio HK802SX amps Fi BL on the left, MTX RFL in the middle and his MA 12s from last season This is where it all goes Little sound deadner, Dynamat and elemental mental design stuff Rebuilt the door panels to look a little better and hold two 6 1/2 distinct audios My favorite thing...custom ANL fuse holder Got a little more done today but didn't take any pics yet. I will keep ya all updated the best I can and we are open to any suggestions. Lee

Thanks for the help, I will make sure to get the full cooling then. I am waiting for my little brother to bring his car over so I can do some more exact measuring and see what we got to work with. I know the 6000 watts is a little overkill but I would rather have the headroom in his class then be underpowered. We have been running that amp to three older Crossfire BMF 12's and had no problems as of yet so I think the FI BTL will do all right. Anyway, thanks for the advise and I hope we will be ordering a sub soon enough. I will keep everyone up to date with the build also. Lee

ttt Could someone please at least tell me if I am right about the options to order on the BTL 15?

I'm not sure what that amp costs but my brother runs the MA Audio hk802sx amps and they are acually a really nice amp and they put out about 3000 watts RMS and they sell for right around $400 on ebay. They are a little current hungry though but you won't have to run it full tilt, and you will have a lot of headroom. Just an idea. Lee

How does this sound. One 15 inch BTL with the 3rd magnet, HiXm Coil, P Chamfer, and Daily options. From what I understand I don't need the cooling option for what the sub will be used for. The box will be a total of four cubic feet before subtracting sub displacement and port displacement. I see the suggestion of 12-16 square inches per cubic foot for the port. If I go with the 16 square inches per cubic foot how deep does it have to be to tune it around 38hz? Do you times 16 by 4 or by the amount left after sub and port displacement? Thanks, Lee

Here is the system: Basic Kenwood deck (for now) feeding a US AMPS 6000. US AMPS 6000 feeding one BTL 15. For now, two runs of 0 gauge running back off a 250-300 amp alt feeding three Stinger 1700s. We want to do street beat under USACI rules which is pound the crap out of it for 30 seconds. The amp will not be ran at full tilt just so you guys know. I was wondering what kinda box you guys might recommend and should we get the fully loaded BTL or are there a few things we don't need. This will make for one of two FI systems being built this season and I will keep you all updated as the builds progress. If your interested the other is four FI BL 15s running off four MA Audio 802s in a two door s-10 blazer that will be a burp box. Thanks, Lee

Those are priced pretty good in comparison to Optimas. Anyone else got an suggestions on batteries? Thanks, Lee

This will be in a daily driven SPL machine. I looked up the group 31 optimas and they say 1125 amps at 32 degrees. I don't know for sure if this is the same rating as Kinetik uses when they say 2600 amps. Lee

Would it be better to have four optima yellow top batteries or two Kinetik 2400s. I have read about optima group 31 batteries, is that just a yellow top or a specific optima? Thanks, Lee

I'm not all that computer intelligent, but I do draw a little so here is something I thought up....

He also got the universal feature, should be send them in and get them changed or will they work? Does anyone know what kinda spl difference there is in the SPL version and the Daily version? Thanks, Lee

My brother just ordered four fully loaded BL 15s. Let me start with saying they are SWEET!!!! He ordered them with the SPL option, but he will probably listen to them as he goes to and from work. I will assume not at full tilt, but fairly loud. Will the whole world come to an end or will they work for that? Thanks, Lee

Here is the planned system. 1995 s-10 blazer is the ride. High output alt (200-300 amp output). Yellow top optima up front. Two, for now, Kinetik khc2400 batteries in back. Four MA Audio hk802sx amplifiers. Two channel high current amps rated at 4400 watts RMS x1 @1ohm. We are guessing with full power behind them they will put out about 3500 watts each. Four FI Audio BL 15s. My question is this. Should a guy run two or four runs of 0 gauge wire to the back? Please explain why you say which one. I think two will work as the two of them can transfer around 600 amps through thier 13-14 foot lengths and that is about all that is available from the alt and battery on an average. My brother says we may need all four incase the system tries to pull all the amperage from the optima which I suppose could be around 900 amps on a hard short pull. What do you guys think? Thanks for the help, Lee