Jason Witt

I put it at full tilt with my voltage meter on it....multiple times, 2 different meters....read the same thing.......Im not a dumbass who thinks he can put that much power on a stock system......im just stating what ive personally seen and wittnessed with my car.... I wasn't insinuating that you are a dumbass. I'm just stating that your amp is wore out man. Hope you get it resolved. Good luck.

Is it a bootleg wheels on the bus CD? I bought it from a bum at a Taco Bell. It was a very strange night, the bus driver was pissed.

Dust usually occupies my CD slot unless I am playing wheels on the bus for the kids.

I smell a trollolol.. Quite musty.

I like CA glue, but I don't mind not having any for a recone because this works really well.

Welding cable is fine with the elements. Mobile welding trucks have to endure just about every element thrown at them, and the cables last for years.

The screws will be the biggest pain to get out. I use an impact screwdriver to do the job, otherwise it's a simple recone process.

Looks like that box has a raised Sundown Audio logo. The port does look a bit awkward.

Two XS 3400's would be plenty for that amp with your alternator. One run of power wire would be sufficient as well.

Amplifier not fused running at .5 ohm daily? Full tilt on a stock alternator? I am going to assume your voltage dipped well below 13.5 full tilt and did cause permanent damage to your amp. If it doesn't make sense, it's not true. What your amplifier has went through would be like you running in a hot sauna without a break. You would die too.

Test your load with the subs DISCONNECTED from the amplifier and double check your wiring if it reads over 1 ohm.

It is shorting somewhere or is simply overloaded.

That would be plenty for them since they are 600 watts rms each.

Salt, pepper, butter, and a hot flame is all you need for a perfect steak.

You could use one alternator for the vehicles stock electrical, and the other to power the amps from the rear battery. It is okay to use the XS in the back and a regular for starting, as long as they aren't wired in parallel. If you used just a single alternator, you would need both under hood battery, and rear battery to be the same type. I would recommend another D3400 and stick with a single larger alternator and see how you like that before you buy a bracket.

It takes power to make power, and lots of people just don't understand this fact.

So left-right and front-back should be good enough? Usually I will brace where I think the most stress will be applied. Sometimes it's side to side, up and down, or just front to back. Hard to say until you have your design and more times than none, a little goes a long way.

Nuts and washers inside and out. Just a few examples of double baffles and threaded rod.

I use threaded rod as well. It never fails.

That's how I did it. I just measured out and followed a stud down the wall. It isn't always an easy task though.

Try to run a jumper between the remote wire input and the power input, See what happens then. EDIT: Do this with your HU off on the amplifier.

Have you inspected your wiring completely looking for pinches or shorts? Are the signaling cables good?

How do you have it wired? Have you checked your fuses?