Briggiboy33

there is my design. after port and sub displacement i have about 3.9cuft. would any one do anything differently than this and why? im thinking about getting a threaded rod to go from the back to the front where the sub will be. and from the bottom to the top where the ports are parallel to. im looking for some advice here.

hey guys i have a 2006 toyota tundra access cab. currently my sub is in a 2.5cuft box tuned around 32hz. its much too small. it is being powered by a percision power black ice bk1300.1d. and i have been fiddling around on sketch up trying to make a box to fit nice and tight up against my seat in the back passenger side. the box will be roughly 4 cuft with 2 4" pvc ports. will this be enough port area for my sub? the box i have it in now has much too small of a port. i am planning to tune to around 30hz this time. sub will be roughly in the center of the two front seats firing foward, with the ports facing the drivers side. there will be one seat still usable in the rear behind the drivers seat. what do you guys think of this plan? any suggestions? im pretty crafty with the tools, so i was thinking about putting a mdf ring on the end of the ports and flaring them with a router. double baffle flush mounted, and i think im going to need to brace the box a bit this time.

i believe they are set to 90. the 60 was too low. i have messed with these a little bit since ive had it. i have scrolled through the settings, and i couldnt tell the difference with the bass setting, or the mid or high setting. but i can try it again next time im in there. thank you for the input.

yeah i didnt think about the rain and stuff. good looks on that. but yeah ill try to seal the doors up and get some CLD on there.

alright that sounds good. i mean if i stuck some of that matress topper in the door pannels after i tried to seal the doors with like 1/4" wood with the CLD tiles would that help also? my plan seems to be to get the CLD first correct? and the 1/4" wood to seal the holes seems like it would help alot also. i have the matress topper that i dont use.. lol it might be pointless. but just until i can afford the actual thing. right now i just want the speakers to not distort when i play songs like "in for the kill" or "PA nights". pretty soon im planning to make a much larger box for my 15" ssd and get much more out of my sub. as it is, the vocals barely can keep up. but i am more just looking for better quality from them.

it does have a high pass and a low pass on it that i do use.

i have the clarion cx501. i honestly dont know what a few of the features do... there are settings for different letters.

this is amazing. you do great work!

wow that was great info there. i really appreciate it. so if i bought 13sqft of damplifier pro and used like a thin wood. not sure what type but like 1/4" or so and siliconed it to the door to seal the holes then place the bamplifier pro to the 25% on each door, would i get much better response from the mids? sorry i havent researched much about deadening anything, im 19 and just been all about the bass. just recently added the components and amp. so ive never had the rattles from the doors. but im thinking using like 1/4" wood to fill the holes. then cdl on the sheet metal. deadener is quite expensive and seems to be the last thing i thought about. but i really appreciate the pictures.

so i should seal the doors? okay step one needs to be completed. i had that feeling. time to do my research on that. thanks guys

i currently have a pair of polk db 6.5 components. the 6.5s dont go low enough, they are running on a power bass XAX2160FD 100rmsx2 @ 4ohms. i have been thinking about using the tweeters and the xover and installing a pair of peerless 830946 woofers. im not sure where the xover is actually set. but would this work? or what would you guys reccomend? i have a 15" ssd on 1300rms in the back on my tundra access cab. these would go in the doors btw.

WHAT ARE YOU USING TO CUT THAT MDF?!?!?! those are some perfect cuts if you ask me

i am currently running a power bass XAX-2160FD 2ch x 100rms at 4 ohms and a percision power BK1300.1D that is 1300rms at 1 ohm. i have just the stock alternator which i believe is 70a. and also the stock battery. if i was going to buy a single battery or possibly 2 batterys what size should i get and what brand?

impious i appreciate the info. i have modeled my ssd15 in the winisd with the 2.5cuft box and also the 4cuft box and i am excited to see what it really sounds like with the new box because it shows huge improvements

alright thank you for the help.

i just downloaded winisd so i can model my ssd15 in a new enclosure to see the difference between the current 2.5cuft and the new 4cuft bow im planning on building. where do i find the Pe,Le,Z,dia? i have the other numbers off of the fi website but i believe i need these for it to work correctly... i would greatly appreciate any help.

what would an acceptable level be?

its a 2009 and the installer will make it fit if its possible.

my friend is looking to build a box and install a sub under the back seat. we don't have the dimensions of our space but we were wondering what a good sub would be that is 5" or less deep. were thinking one 10" or two 8" subs in a sealed box. or one 8" in a ported box. any recommendations would be very appreciated. we will be able to fit a 1cuft box according to the stealth box that is sold on crutchfield.

i have the ppi bk1300 on a ssd15. i mean i really like it alot. and i would reccomend it. i got it on ebay for like 170 or something like that too.

why'd the chicken cross the road?! because north koreas Nukes couldnt reach that far.

alright well i have the maximum dimensions for a box all drawn up on sketch up. im just looking to make the sub louder, and im thinking 30hz tuning would be ideal to play everything in any song. i currently have a 2.5cuft box which is probably tuned more like 35-38hz. i currently am giving the sub roughly 1300rms, probably a little lower. but im looking for more efficiency so i dont heat up the sub so much anymore. i have always been told the larger ports hit the lows louder... idk but if someone could help me a bit with this box id very much appreciate it.

so what did i do wrong to get absolutly no feed back? was it that stupid of a question? or did i post in the wrong section? atleast tell me that much...

currently i have a 2.5cuft box tuned around 33hz with a 1300.1 percision power amp running at 1 ohm. i have just installed a pair of polk components in the front with a powerbass 2ch giving each side about 100rms. so now the sub isnt the main part of my system like it was before when i only had 30rms to the front doors that would get un audible when the sub hit. the idea for the new box is about 4cuft tuned around 28hz or so. my biggest question is how big should my port be? what are the advantages of 12" vs 16" per cube? would 12" be more snappy vs a 16" which would move more air? currently the box is directly behind the drivers seat with the sub and port facing the driver. the new box would have to take up the rear passengers side and the rear middle seat. should i face the sub and port up, keep it facing foward, sub foward port to drivers side? idk, just looking for some small details/tips for my new box before i try to draw something up on sketchup. ohhh and i have a 15''x30" piece of 1/2" plexi glass i was planning to put on the box to see inside and put my huge fi sticker on. but any thoughts, comments, tips, concerns are very appreciated. thank you

Thankyou everyone for your input. My last set up i tuned by ear and that was easy to hear distortion. But this new sub is alot louder and its a lot harder to hear the distortion.. if its distorting.... and also my electrical isnt up to par so i cant sit and listen to it like focusing hard... lol but i guess ill just adjust as i go. Like one click down or up depending how the songs i listend to sounded.