KyleBrown

Get your soft clip on.

Looks relaxing.

I do like those butt connectors with solder in them. Very handy

I have went to almost 10 shows this year and not competed at any and World Finals is another one i'm going to and not competing either. Come with Me.. Hail armykyle. Not worth the money in gas to go if I can't even demo. I've got quite a few friends competing. I hope they do well.

good article.

Nasty!

No point in going without equipment.

I understand the situation just fine. Maybe you don't understand that. I've got my plan, thanks for your attempt at helping...

The mid bass doesn't have to keep up and at those levels, you won't notice it anyway. I just want music to be audible at the high levels, I know it will still get somewhat drowned out from the sub stage. I want midbass in there so I can have it at moderate listening levels and still have a nice clear sound "up front." I like to enjoy my music at high levels sometimes. I'm not going to to be blasting 160db every time I'm in my truck or whatever it ends up doing... I have leviathan and it has pretty nice nice xovers on it. I have a T800.2 which is a serious power house. Which I'm considering selling so I can fund another leviathan. This is my current HU http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/DVD-Receivers/AVH-X5500BHS It's not a bad unit and it has some nifty features but I don't like the lag. This thread is going in circles and leading nowhere.....

DD's like big boxes. If you can't do a min of 3.5 after displacement, I wouldn't bother. I'd say 4-4.5 personally. Also if it has the old style soft parts and basket, I'd pass more lol. They're really strong motors and even with the old parts I'd still call it a 2500rms sub. The newer parts are much better though, they allow for more excursion and in my opinion a better sounding sub.

There's a lot of variables to cover. If you're doing "round ports" you'll always want a minimum of have the diameter of the port between the port and whatever load surface it's hitting inside the cabin. I've always preferred the port to be reasonably close to a loading surface. Lets say you have a large SUV, you can fire the port up which is roughly 30" from the roof or load to the rear hatch which is 13". I'd prefer to fire the port to the to the rear hatch. There's way to discuss but I'm still on pain meds from surgery Wednesday.

Everything is important. I've got plenty of amps for highs and I'm thinking about trading my double din for a 80prs. I'm waiting to finalize my amp situation.

Love those cars

150 per side on the highs, 150 per side on the low mid bass, 600 total and the word trying was in there.

Trying to keep it in that price range. This thread is going nowhere.

Yes lol

That's going to keep up with 4 18s on 10k?

Most drivers can be "over powered" if done properly. I don't see why you can't use it on the skar1500 as long as you don't go crazy into the clipping. Motor size doesn't mean everything. The quality of steel and ferrite can change it all. Y35 vs Y40 or w/e.

What do you think about the full range 4" drivers? I've heard the 7" versions which are vastly different in response. I'm trying to keep it around 150$ per side on highs or less(300 total). Roughly the same for the low end per side. Going for something looks different yet still yields good clarity. Stereo separation is important but not so much on "proper" imaging. Also trying to keep up with a sub stage that will hopefully get to 160. Power wise, I'll have my leviathan for power when I get it fixed. I may use a different amp to power the midbass though.

I'm open to suggestions. Like the title says, "brainstorming"

The 100% vertical part is the killer. But there might be a way around it kind of. Though it wouldn't be a true line array. I'm going to keep digging in old articles.

Time to give up then.

Well in car audio...

That's kind of what I want to do. I've only seen them in builds online. I haven't demo'd one in person yet.

What needs to be redrawn? All the 3's, why not?