CHRIS 323

well 43 inches is my max from SIDE to SIDE anything longer than 43 inches wont fit i love the side port cause i could put my batteries without blocking the port can you do one with the port in the middle i had in mind a triangle port or maybe a circle port lol thanks alot i owe you one big time

thanks alot that box looks better than what i have in mind

have you tried checking the PPI website

i wanted to put 2 batteries there and plus if we use your idea there batteries are going to block the port

birch is almost twice the price of MDF right??? not but usually 10 bucks more or so a sheet damn i hope so i dont mind 10 or 15 more but for what it does well worth it can i dont have money to upgrade the brake pads & rotors or even add a k&n cold air intake for the extra horse power i still need my dc power ALT 270xp thats $629 then the 2 xs power d3100 and the box thats like $1300 or more lol

birch is almost twice the price of MDF right???

my bad im confusing you i meant to say can it be 3/4 MDF all around and 1 inch MDF instead of the double baffle where the subs cut out ????? or all 1 inch MDF would be better

does it have to be double baffle ??? or can i do 3/4 MDF all around and 1 inch instead of double baffle ??? and can it be 3/4 MDF ????? or it has to be 1 inch MDF since i drive a V6 weight is a little issue but dont wanna risk taking too much off the box either im still new to the box thing ill leave it to you and thanks i really appreciated alot

from TOP to BOTTOM 21 inches and from SIDE to SIDE 43 inches and from FRONT to BACK 30 inches how many CUBIC FEET is that ??? 13 cu ft. wow thats perfect for 2 sp4 18s im thinking ported center port or middle port not the 1 in the bottom and subs facing UP

from TOP to BOTTOM 21 inches and from SIDE to SIDE 43 inches and from FRONT to BACK 30 inches how many CUBIC FEET is that ???

what are the specs of the box ported or sealed and nice score

im thinking subs facing UP and the PORT pointed to the rear / facing back

yea i need a box design im getting 2 sp4 18s for my 2005 jeep grand cherokee i want a ported box tuned at 32Hz 12 cubic feet

i see in u sig u have a icon 15 ?¿??

can you do a sketch for me ?

EBC Yellowstuff was my first idea, however, seeing that I will more than likely need new rotors I thought about going up in size. Bigger rotors are 7.5 lbs extra per wheel. Probably an extra 2-3.5 lbs for bigger calipers and it adds up to 10 lbs extra unsprung weight per wheel. Seems like EBC Yellow is only $25 more than the Greens in the UK. I'll be going there in April and I can get them in my luggage, so no shipping cost. But it's still up for discussion if the slightly smaller surface 2-piston caliper + bigger rotor = better performance than the stock single piston and rotor. Keep in mind again that I'm not buying a kit, I'm making a kit, so cost will be smaller for sure, just a lot of extra work. i have stock brakes and ill be adding more weight i wanna upgrade my brakes any advice or knowledge you can share

not really but i called audiocontrol they said send it in and they paid for everything the shipping and they said we will replace it at no charge

i need some stopping power since i have more weight it laggs to stop any recommendations

i dont know about whats the best but the two top ones are second skin and dynamat

just if you dont know what speaker size your cas has heres a link too http://www.crutchfield.com/S-MVT2P5fP1Vs/app/car/carselector.aspx

and WELCOME

here a link to a good website with good deals http://www.sonicelectronix.com/

edited to remove links

You need more experience because i have heard 1750wrms subs on 500wrms and they will get loud. depends on the amp only if they true to power some amps say 500 watts and you lucky to get 300 Taking in voltage drop, volume, and music being so dynamic, i I guess you could say no amp does rated either. Which amps are you talking about that do not do rated? usually everything except high end brands

While I do agree that planning ahead is a must, I completely disagree with starting at the amps and subs and working your way forward. Consider this, the subs play a few frequencies from around 25hz to less than 100hz. Your highs play everything from that about 80-100hz range all the way up the scale. Unless you're building a competition rig trying to break class records, wouldn't it make more sense to start with the HU, any processing you're planning on using, sound deadening, the highs and then work your way back? Just some food for thought. well actually i bought my bass amps first cause i know what subs go perfect with them and then i bought my mids and highs amp then after all that i knew i was gonna need a high output ALT then of course big 3 and again of course multi batteries and couple runs of 0 gauge and alot of dynamat lol