Burbarry

$300 is just for the mids. I have a amp already. I was thinking about 2 sets of comps. The list above has links but here is the names with modle numbers: CL-S60A - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component CL-61A - CDT Audio Classic 6.5" 2-Way Component Speakers RE6.5 COMP - RE Audio 6.5" 2 Way 4 Ohm RE Series Component Set S60 - Boston Acoustics 6.5" 2 Way Component System DSG216 - MB Quart 6.5" 2 Way Component Speaker System

Here is a few options I have been looking at: http://www.woofersetc.com/p5207/CLS60A--CDT-Audio-Classic-65"-2Way-Component-Speakers.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p1090/CL61A--CDT-Audio-Classic-65"-2Way-Component-Speakers.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p4927/RE65-COMP--RE-Audio-65"-2-Way-4-Ohm-RE-Series-Component-Set.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p3377/S60--Boston-Acoustics-65"-2-Way-Component-System.htm http://www.woofersetc.com/p6766/DSG216--MB-Quart-65"-2-Way-Component-Speaker-System.htm Let me know which ones you guys think I should get. I can get a great deal on the RE ones from the dealer here in town. I am leaning towards them just want your input on what you guys think. The only reason I put the MB quarts in there is because I will be running these mids off of a MBQuart amp.

I run 12 gauge from amp to crossover and crossover to speakers. But 14 should be ok, I wouldn't use the factory stuff.

I just put a limit of $300 I would like it if they were cheaper. I just don't think there is going to be a big gain going from $300 up to $1000 set. Maybe even an active setup, but I have never done an active setup before. I might try it with the wifes car to see how it turns out. Has anyone ran the Mach5 mid?

Forget about the coaxial idea. Now I am deciding on a good set of comps. I am going to just get rid of the 4" dash speaker that she has. lets just get some options on here for what would get loud and clear for comps. I will be putting them in a baffel with soundeadner for the doors. I might even make a custom pannel for the door since there is not much room for a kick pannel. Let me know your opinions on comps that are in the $300 limit.

I knew you would get over 150, you should be able to get a 151 with ease.

There is a shop in town that me and my friend go into just to see the new product lines in person. But, we never buy from them since it is main stream and over priced. They know this and right when we walk in they say oh come to check out the new stuff. If we do buy anything that is mainstream it is off of ebay or direct. They found this out when the other day we were in the store and the Kicker rep was there and started talking to us asking us how our install was going. The store was like WTF, and now acts like there to busy to demo out the new stuff for us, and makes remarks like just call the dealer and ask them to demo it for you. Our new goal is to have them sponser us. I am not sure how easy it is going to be since we only buy odds and ends from them, but I will let you guys know what comes out of it.

If you never plan to upgrade you will be ok with the 4 gauge. But if you are a bass head like most of us you will be upgrading sometime soon.

Just spend the money and do the BIG 3 with 1/0 and run 1/0 back to your amps as well. I know it was already said before but I figured I would say it again, that way you might listen to us.

She has a Dodge Charger, and it has 6x9's in the door and 4" in the dash. So I figured I would replace them. I was looking at some CDT's, and maybe some morel, or even mach5's with a diamond tweeters that I have laying around. I was just looking at what is the down side to coaxials vs. comps? and what are some good brands of comps out there that are efficient as well as loud and clear.

Ok, this is going in the wifes car and I will need something that gets loud and is clear, that is why I said coaxials. I figured for the price coaxials would get louder.

Never heard of those before. But over all I am looking for a decent set to replace some 4" dash speakers, and 6x9 door speakers. All wiil be powered by an amplifier like the one in my signature. What is your thoughts on running set of 4" coaxial and set of 6" coaxial or 6x9 2 or 3 ways? Instead of running componet setup.

I had a BTL fully loaded and it had a smell that smell was the leads frying. I replaced them with some 8 gauge wire and never had a problem untill I decided to run 20K to it for a comp burned the coil and cone cracked. I was not to happy with the BTL's leads when I got mine. But, I had one of the first ones. I heard that problem is worked out now.

I want to know what is the best set of mids you have ever had. let me know I have doing a SQ setup in my wifes car and am stuck between a few. i want something that gets loud and clear. Only post if you have owned them.

Brand: Apline Model: CDA-9887 Rating: I would give it a 5 out of 5 Pros: Ok, so I just go my new head unit put in and it has 10 times better sound output then my last deck a Clarion VRX755 (which is a DVD/CD player). I think some of it might be going from 2 volt preouts to 4 volt preouts. But, I figured that wouldn't matter since I was running (and still am running) a line driver. Cons: The only thing I see being a con is if you are not sure how panoramic and graphic EQ’s work it could be a problem, along with setting the time delay by ear. But they take care of that if you have the mic for the sound imprint feature. Other then that I would say there is no problems with it. Overall Opinion: I have never ran Alpine CD players before, but I now see what all the hype is about. For the last 7-10 years I have always ran Clarion. I mean don't get me wrong there easy to use, and last forever. Before that I was running Pioneers they worked great but every time you hit the 2 year mark the sound outputs would go out. Now I did have a Eclipse back in the day It was awesome till someone stole it, But I got the last laugh on that one since you had to have a correct CD to start it up and like after 5 wrong times it locked you out. Now I just can’t wait to figure out what I am going to do with my mids to take advantage of the sound imprint feature. I am half tempted to go pay to get it done now until I get my mids figured out. It is basically a mic that you hook up to your laptop and it goes in with a program and makes it the best sound possible for the driver and front passenger; using the time delay and sound processer, and EQ. Anyhow I would recommend the Alpine CDA-9887 to anyone that wants better sound quality.

I was told you can get better sound out of running an active setup. It that not true?

Rainbow 3 way front mids (6.5" woofer CS 160R, 4" mid CS W 100DIN, and 1" tweeter) Diamond D661 Rear Mids (6.5" mid and 1" tweeter)

From what I see I will have to have 2-4 channels now can I run the mid bass and mid woofer off of one channel since I have a 3 way set up front. I am wanting to use a splitter since I will have 8 rca ins needed and only 4 coming out of the deck. Also, I have rainbow tweets and Diamond tweets does that matter?

Ok, so I decided to go with a Alpine 9887 with the time imprint. my next question is can this deck do a good job if I run my mids active? I have never tried to run an active setup before, and was hoping you guys could point me in a direction as to how it all works. I know you need to run each speaker on a seperate channel of an amp. So, I will have to buy another mid amp. Now would I just use RCA splitter on say the front right to get my mid and highs seperate? Now I also read that you have to run it in full range and control it all of of the deck EQ is that correct?

I have 2 12" sdc2.512's in my trunk on 1 US AMPS XT4000D putting out 1300 watts before rise. I do between a 146.1 and 146.6 on the TL mic. box is 4.3 cuft tuned to 33 HZ. I am going to be building a 4th order box soon and hope to get a 148+ out of it. With a bigger box and tuned higher you could get more out of these subs with that much power. But I would do the BIG 3, and put a big Battery up front and one in back for that amount of power. Now if you are running daily I would upgrade your alternator, other wise you will run into problems down the road.

You double THD when you go to a lower ohm load. So if you can run it at a higher ohm load.

go with the eclipse.

It is a ported box 4.3 Cuft tuned to 34 HZ.

Yes, it is 1 to each sub. Also, I was using a Earthquake PHD5000 for the 12" BTL fully loaded.

These are the sdc2.512's and I like them a lot better then the BTL. sounds better IMO.