SS Teacher

Then I missed it because so many people actually drink the kool-aid there. True, but we have far fewer kool-aid drinkers here.

I think typing "SMD forum" is the cue for being sarcastic.

The only people who should try to use 10" or 12" midbass are seriously advanced pros with lots of processing equipment. My advice is for you to buy a pair of good component 6 1/2" speakers, the SSA store sells them, for the front and power them with 2 of the audiopipe's 4 channels. Use 2 more channels to power a set of coaxles in the rear (whichever sounds "best" to you). Stick with the Sundown sub in a box recommended by the manufacturer powered by one of the hifonics amps and get rid of the rest. Based on your questions, you are too new in the hobby to make all those speakers sound good together.

If you want your system to sound much better you need to focus your front stage and your sub stage. Front stage- most people go with either a good component set or an active set up with separate tweeters and mids, or separate tweeters, mids, and mid bass. Sub stage- big 'ol sub with a quality amp in the back. Having lots of speakers ie 6x9"s, coaxels, tweets, etc means lots of overlapping frequencies and it probably is loud, but not good. Keep asking questions, it's good to see you respond with more information.

You're new to the forum so I want to try and help you. If you ask a "what is best?" question, you will not get the answer. You need to be specific in what you want. What do you drive, what is your budget, what is skill level, what do you want your system to sound like, what equipment do you currently have? Please do a little searching on the forum, there are a few van builds here so you can make some comparisons, and read other posts and topics. Good luck to you.

I think age has a direct correlation on the number of uncontrolled bodily functions at once.

A 12" sub in a good box is better than a 15" in a crappy box. If you're planning on getting a new car in a few months you probably need to rethink your goals.

A newbie with 5 posts bumped it, probably by mistake.

If you're not satisfied with a single JL12w0 than you will get a lot more volume from 2 12"s on a lot more watts, but no one can tell you how much more. The enclosure will have a HUGE impact on output as well as vehicle characteristics. Is it the 2003 Solara in your signature, than know that trunk cars will not get as loud as hatchbacks. If you haven't purchased anything yet, than wait. Take your time, read some more, ask more questions. You'll save a lot of money in the long run and get much better results.

"The Big 3" is replacing the factory wires from the alt to battery, power, and ground wire with thicker wire, typically 0 gauge. There are plenty of write-ups and suggestions on wire choices. One of the vendors on this site is even running a sale, of course you have to do the labor. Try the search function, some people have luck with it, others not so much.

You're running a 12" and an 8" off the same mono amp? Read the forum rules, introduce yourself in the Newbie sign-in, and read, read, read. There is a wealth of information on this site and many people who will help you with great advice, but it does require some effort on your part.

Sadly, reviews on websites are almost always completely, totally worthless. Go back to Sonic Electronixs and check out the Boston Acoustics GT-2200, it's 900 watts at 2 ohms and under $200, only downside is its class AB and not class D which means it will be a little harder on your electrical and its going to be a a lot bigger. 1500 good watts at 2 ohms is going to cost more than $200.

I am brand spanking new to ported enclosures so I'm really asking...Is it safe to tune the box that low? The Fs of those 8"s is around 40htz. By the way, those subs look fantastic, some day I do some monster 8"s, but right now I'm sticking with 12"s or larger because I'm a chicken.

Welcome to the premier car audio forum on the net. There are people from all walks of life and age groups here, but you will find that the majority of people who can help you would rather you write in English and use proper punctuation and grammar. I'm not trying to put you down, but if you want to be taken seriously, please try harder.

I took "beast ass" to be a compliment, but than again I'm over 40 and don't know all the popular phrases.

How could anyone answer that question? We don't know how many lows you want hit. Please restate your question with measurable parameters. Sorry, not trying to be a jerk.

Parts express and madisound are the 2 big online suppliers of raw drivers, but picking the right drivers for you is going to take a lot of research and asking a lot of good questions. The good news is you're in the right place.

Welcome to the forum. Ask thoughtful questions, answer questions asked of you and you will find this to be the best car audio forum on the net.

Welcome to the forum!

Which will allow him to add a second 4 ohm DCON later when he wants more bass. Good thinking.

Why not get an amp rated at 300 watts rms? If your friend isn't knowledgeable about car audio and you're hooking him up with a 1000 watt amp, he's going to melt the coil. Also 300 watts is easier on a cars electrical. Sonic Electronix has a Boston Acoustics GT 275 which has a subsonic filter, high and low pass filters, bridges at 300 watts at 2 ohms, and cost $129 shipped.

Who would have ever guessed this guy was a Newbie, can we talk about Salmon again?

Don't tell me that! I have a single JL 12w0 on 250 watts RMS rear firing that is not nearly loud enough. Short term, I bought a Sundown E-15 and will do sub up, port rear on 400 watts. Would I and the OP be better off making the box at a 45 degree angle so the 15" can be rear firing, albeit at an angle?

I've reported you once already, stop Spamming, Spammer!

Welcome, a lot has changed in 20 years, you've come to the right place!