Duke

Its also the most censored forum I've been a member of. Its stupid crap too... its like being in a different country. They really don't like freedom of speech over there.

Any other specs set in stone that you can reveal?

Not sure. Might not hurt the sub, but your receiver might not like it. How much power does the sub channel do?.. or is it just an output that is meant to go to the input of a dedicated sub amp?

You would want to hook it up to a dedicated subwoofer amplifier (running off an output from the receiver), not just on a random channel of a home receiver.

As said before, a TL (transmission line) might be fun to do. That is, if you don't mind experimenting. There are some good websites with 1/4 wave stuff on them and a standard straight (non chambered) TL is fairly easy to design. Alot of people get get results with them... at least they claim good results. Other than that... just follow what everyone is saying, and play around with the placement in the room.

Going to include headrest response graphs?

How tall is the port?

I use a Lenco type hammer/anvil type tool on 4/0 and I did a tug test and couldn't loosen the crimp at all. The tug test consisted of placing the flat end of the ring terminal in a 6" vice after I crimped the thing, then yanking and jerking the wire in different directions and pulling extremely hard. Didn't loosen it. Soldering it afterwards gives even better peace of mind. If your crimps are giving out in a normal car audio application, you are doing something wrong.

1/3 sd usually works quite well also. If you did 10 cubes (net)... 120 square inches of port area between 13 and 18 inches long would probably work quite well. Note. "Net" refers to the total volume of air in the enclosure after subs and port have been accounted for.

Forget about EBP. It will do fine ported.

Nice box. Figure it out guys... this is not a UPS problem... its a shipping industry problem. Things get broken because of so many variables... its not limited to one company. I see the same stuff happening now at UPS that I saw at FedEx for 6 years.

Probably people just doing their own custom work.

I just weighed one of my 18s, and it came it at 30 pounds. I think the scale is pretty accurate.

You just getting new subs, or re-doing the entire setup?

Hell yeah! I wonder how many people WITHOUT ROOM will buy it though, just because its huge. I know I've got room for 2 ported.

Yes!

You let him put them in his car in their current "scraping uncentered" condition? Maybe he goofed them up.

Kind of dirty, but yeah.

For people who have a pretty good knowledge of enclosures already, there is no reason to pay $ for a design. For people who don't know much about enclosures... $50 for plans, then building it yourself for 30=80$ in parts isn't bad considering how much local shops charge for custom building.

Thanks guys. This is the best work I've ever done and I'm very proud of it. Every seam is as smooth as flat can get. Putting a few coats of polyurethane on it, then painted it flat black. I'll post more pics soon.

Going in a 2008 Scion tC. Has taken about a week because I was only able to do about 15-30 minutes a day due to two jobs and no sleep. Now it has some minor fills drying which I will sand later, then cut holes for teh subs and one for a terminaln and finally begin the painting process.

SSA has a muscular squirrel... CA doesn't. The end.

Where did you find this information?

I just measured my Havoc 18s. Outer diameter with the gasket on is 18 15/32" (18.46875") Mounting hole cutout is 16 23/32" (16.71875") Mounting depth is between 9 11/16" (9.6875") and 9 12/16" (9.75")

Holy crap dude. That is awesome. How much power per sub?