Duke

The crap particle board was used because the entire box was made from scrap wood. I've actually got sheets of some better particle board which has alot higher density so the edges wouldn't look as "chippy"... maybe you have a better suggestion for what wood I should use? I hear birch ply is good... but nobody appears to carry it around here. As for the crossover, there is not one yet. I have the woofers paralleled together, then seriesed to the tweeter. If I find that I need a crossover, I do have some nice Linkwitz/Riley ones sitting around that I'll use. Hopefully the crossover point is above 3khz. I haven't yet noticed any distortion issues... thats at relatively low volume levels though. Man, that amp is awesome. Its barely a hair up and its plenty loud to hear anywhere in the room clearly.

Here is a recent project I just finished. From what I've heard so far, the only thing I know of that sounds better is a Magnepan system which probably cost about 10 times as much as this did. We'll see once I can give it a major listen. I'm still a novice builder and I'm not really all that concerned with the finish at this point. Its just spray on lacquer that I got at Walmart. Its made of MDF. The internals were dead on what they were supposed to be. Its a pair of Dayton DC160-8 ohm 6.5" speakers and a Hi-Vi Tn28 tweeter being powered by a single channel on a Dayton APA 150. The second tower is yet to be started. The top of the box is warped somehow, although the internal port remains the exact height it is supposed to be. I have no clue why.... on to the pics. Also, I'll get response graphs up once I get to it. Test fit. Tweeter hole sucks, thats a jigsaw and monstrous hands for you. The base. Did some filling on the tweeter hole, then reaming to get it nice and round. Ended up being about a perfect tight fit for the tweeter.

That is the very best description ever of what supplements are. Although some are helpful, its very hard to weed out all the crap. Definitely invest in some creatine (JUST GET 99.9% PURE MONOHYDRATE, NONE OF THE BS THATS ALL HYPED UP)... Nutrabio makes good stuff, and some quality protein if you won't get enough from your diet. Optimum Nutrition makes some affordable and good quality stuff. With creatine monohydrate alone, I went from weighing 215ish to about 240(mostly muscle), and I've stayed right between 235 and 245 for a few years now(I'm also 6'7" and I don't think I'm terribly out of shape). I didn't do cardio though sadly. I was only doing strength workouts. Also, multivitamins and amino acids would probably be a good idea. Good luck man.

Dude, it is TOTAL SEX!

Keep any negative comments out please, unless they are constructive negative comments that might help me improve in future projects. I'd really appreciate that, thanks guys. Its a variation of a transmission line enclosure, designed to have alot better low end response than the big huge, low tuned ported box I had before. Don't bother trying to model it as a ported enclosure, because that is not what it is, and asking for Term Lab dash numbers is also pointless since this is a musical (TO THE EAR) box, and not designed to play loud on a PRESSURE sensor on the dashboard. I'll post response graphs once the other half is built and everything is installed. This is one half of the box and the gallon jug of green tea is in there so you can get an idea of the size of this thing. I still need to cut the sub hole, and fill/sand any screw holes. Haven't even started on the second half yet. Once again, its for a pair of these subs. Hope you like. Between this, building my amp rack/battery holder, building an ABC home theater tower, and designing an 8 foot grand piano skid, and also working two jobs... I've been quite busy... and sleepy. Enjoy. Lots of holes.

What makes you say that? what kind of damage? Anything can be fixed. be more specific please. Are the spider and surround attached on all sides?

Yep, they each measure 1.5 or 1.6 ohms. (whew) If you shake the sub, can you hear the coil moving around? Possibly a loose coil.

Hexibase is pretty good at hitting the target goals with his designs. Trust me, these aren't your typical ported boxes. I've heard and made plenty of ported boxes. There is alot more to a good box than a tuning frequency, air space, and port area. To each his own though. Nobody has to buy the designs if they don't want to. Its just another product in the economy which not everyone has to or will want to buy. Some people take their car to a mechanic, some do it themselves. He's not forcing anyone to buy his designs. He's just doing his own thing, and its amazing how people will just hate on it. There are plenty of people out there who can't design a good box, so they search for someone who can. Sometimes they find Hexibase, sometimes they find some random dude on a forum. Let them figure out which way works best for them. ^^^that's the box i made and the guy i made it for. i wouldn't have built the box if i didn't like the design. i didn't hate on the design but just warned the op about how heavy it can get. sheeeeeeesh no need to get all defensive. Wasn't aimed at you, sorry.

Hexibase is pretty good at hitting the target goals with his designs. Trust me, these aren't your typical ported boxes. I've heard and made plenty of ported boxes. There is alot more to a good box than a tuning frequency, air space, and port area. To each his own though. Nobody has to buy the designs if they don't want to. Its just another product in the economy which not everyone has to or will want to buy. Some people take their car to a mechanic, some do it themselves. He's not forcing anyone to buy his designs. He's just doing his own thing, and its amazing how people will just hate on it. There are plenty of people out there who can't design a good box, so they search for someone who can. Sometimes they find Hexibase, sometimes they find some random dude on a forum. Let them figure out which way works best for them.

I'm not an electrical genius by any means, but 1 run of 1/0 would be fine for that, but make sure you have a nice battery, maybe two, and possibly look into a re-wound alt, or just a larger amperage one.

Well, honestly, that 1/0 is going to be good for damn near 300 amps or more or less maybe. 2 runs of it would be more than enough for most daily systems. How much current do your amps crave?

Here is the crimp anvil and how it is used. I believe its actually only good up to like 5/0 (if there is such a thing, I know there is 6/0). This terminal I use as an example is slightly bigger than the 4/0 ones. Put the terminal in like so: Insert the wire into the terminal, and: BAM! WHACK IT HARD WITH A HAMMER! Do it on cement for best results. Here is a 1/0 terminal INSIDE of one of the 4/0 terminals. Cool beans.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/ Probably some of the highest quality wire out there.

Na, this isn't welding wire. Its "industrial" wire. I understand that it gets used for VERY LARGE generators, trains, stuff like that. I would like to compare it to weldingsupply's 4/0 sometime.

The hardest part was trying to get the bolts out of the seat so I could route it where it would be invisible... that didn't happen, the bolts were in their so damn hard. My camera also ran out of batteries. I got a few pics though. Messy install under the hood, but I do not care. It does what its supposed to do. I'll get more pics of the anvil and how it works, and of the python under the carpet when I have new batteries 4/0 vs 1/0 Here is how I crimp/solder them. 4/0 vs 1/0

Tang Band makes some nice, good quality, fairly priced 8s.

I could try to get a shot of where I put it through the firewall and the crimps and what not, but I need batteries for my camera first. Tomorrow, check back here for shots of the crimped/soldered 4/0 wire in my truck. I plan on doing a negative run as the chassis ground sucks royal ass, but its the best I could find. Its quite teh beefy. I couldn't get some bolts undone where I wanted to run it inside the vehicle, so there is a bulge in the carpet. Only noticeable if you know what you're looking for though.

what type of tool is this and is it big enough to fit 0g? I use it for 4/0, its good up to 6/0 I believe. If you didn't know, 4/0 is alot bigger than 0 gauge. Its called a crimp anvil. Weldingsupply.com has them.

One of these and a hammer, then, blow torch and solder. I use it for 4/0. Works so easy and fast.

Give it a shot. Just remember, that amp is limited in what power it can produce so be easy on the volume and gain. Don't try pulling more than it can do, and if you hear distortion, TURN IT DOWN. Good luck, report back.

Whats the qts, vas and fs on that thing?

Think about the pair of 18s I'm going to be using this on. what 18's are you gonna knock the hell out of with that. I assume you're running @ 14.4ish? Wow, long time man. You might remember me as Magurk. But, I'm going to be running a pair of Ascendant Audio Havocs (the new production versions, I no longer have one of the protos and I'm getting rid of the other). The electrical consists of a 225 amp alt, a run of 4/0, 1 Optima Red Top underhood, and 2 Northstar NSB 90s in back. I plan on doing possibly another run of wire, but I think the one 4/0 is fine. Typically, my truck runs between 14.3-14.7

Think about the pair of 18s I'm going to be using this on.

3600w x1 @ 1ohm which is soooo underrated. It also was made to run on 18v right out of the box. Not sure how accurate these are, but it came from a reliable source. Draw