rabidmechanic05

american bass sq880

my other option is about 1000 watts at 4 ohm that i know for a fact doesnt clip and pushes the powe easily. its done so for my 15 and my rl-i 8s

bass boost was off and the gain was at less than a quarter, even then i dont want to push to much power anyway.

voltage squared divided by the ohms

it was pushing 400 at 4 ohm so it whould be good. and yes i dmm'd it to find out

Im looking to downgrade from my current setup considering all the damage that im doing to my car and myself. I was going to do maybe a 1.3-1.5 cube sealed with a 12" SSD and power it with a d3400.2 at 2 ohm. It puts out 800 max at 2 ohm and i think its a little under-rated. Would this work well, im shooting for SQ without so much overly powering bass. Rock and Metal are my major listening habits btw

how do those perform, clarity and loudness?

is there anything you would recommend that would fill that criteria for less than 400?

i told him i could set him up with an american bass setup since i can get a good deal on them, but he wants to know what people think of the dds first

my friend was lookin to get some subs in his stang. his cousin suggested DD's and he found some 1510s for 140 a piece. he wants a good sounding sub and still be able to break 140. ive never personally delt with DD and was looking for some opinions on how these sound and how loud they get. thanks

ok.....Im lost completely on this one......I rewired my whole system, all the speakers to the 4 channel, rewired the rcas, the remote, regrounded everything, the whole nine yards.....The alternator whine was almost none existant till i tuned the amps. Started with a louder alternator whine, then i heard my speakers popping as i changed tracks, so i figured id try to reground my head unit. After i get that ready to reground i turn the car on, i could be about an inch from metal and everything popped, with no spark. As soon as i touch metal, everything pops again. This is where i become lost. I take the ground off, and i hear a rumbling, i open the trunk and my subs are moving with no signal, the cd player has no ground, no signal, and the subs, and the rest of the speakers, are moving with the alternator. So i shut the car off then turn it back to battery, THEIR STILL MOVING ON THEIR OWN!!!!! Help me.....please......I am completely and utterly lost on this problem....... quiet customs :puzzled: :puzzled: :puzzled:

yup, it was the fuse, swapped the 80A for a 120A and now its nice and cool......even though the sub amp side is at about a 40 degree angle, got really bad when i put in an american bass sq-880

2 12" old school polk 12s *way before momo* truck box so shallow i had to put spacer rings on the box to get the subs to fit, even after a 1 inch spacer ring they barely fit Alpine H/U that came with the truck MTX Thunder amp that i cant remember what kind it was total: $100 134.4 dbs

recently checked all that cause i had a bad case of rfi in everything from doors to deck to subs

this is the first time ive seen or heard of this......but my d-block is melting........i recently put in some rl-i 8s, turned the gain up a little bit, didnt change anything else. the amp itself is not getting any hotter, but the end of the fuse and the base under the connection to the 8awg is bubbling. what is causing this and what can i do about it? the amp is a diamond d3400.2 subs: rli 8" d4 running 4awg to the fused d-block *konfused d-block* and 8awg after it my DMM is currently MIA otherwise i would test my current draw on the amp

just stopping by here for some friendly help, giving or recieving been in car audio for about 3 years now and love every minute of it, especially last summer killing people at the local competition with 8s, they got so mad at me i got labeled a cheater for it, hehe, and now i got rli-8s coming to replace my re8s so ill be even harder to beat *insert evil laughter here*