shizzzon

This thread is to get equal distributed output to greatly prolong or get better voltage at the equipment.

ok, i'm gonna try and break this down for car audio use so lets try and tackle this together... 4 amps.. they need to be fused.. alternator, will be fused right before batt bank.. and 6 batteries in the bank. So, all 4 amps will run to it's own custom block, correct? Each amp will have it's own fuse, so let's say 1 fuse per amp, 4 fuses. these 4 fuses will run to a common custom block, correct? From this custom common block, it must make contact with the battery bank... So how do we go about it from here?

ok, do me a favor. Go back out there tomorrow morning and measure the voltage on the battery BEFORE you start the car. the reason for this is i want the car to not have been turned on for hours before doing this measurement. 13.4v is too high for the batt rest. So the reading you are getting is surface charge from the alternator which means that measurement was done not too long after shutting the vehicle off.

ok.. 11.9v isn't low enough to shut the amp off.. Did it just drop to or does it rest at 11.9v with car off?

while i'm still comprehending the link you posted, i have a question about the 2nd pic in the first post. While it shows to connect amp on batt 1 pos post, batt 4 gnd post... where does the batt bank ground from? Batt 1 i assume? also, where does alternator connect at on the bank? Would it connect on same posts as amp would in that pic? Give me a while for me to come back with statements or questions to the new link u posted.

what was the voltage since u say it was a voltage problem? Adding more batts will only give you a temp fix... It's your ALTERNATOR. If you refuse to upgrade it, do not play at prolonged levels without charging batt back up. In this situation, u would highly benefit from a remote voltmeter.

are you referring to the link on post #1 because if you are, i already read it.. When u say larger everything.. that's assuming the current will find path of least resistance to be perfectly distributed... Freehand wiring... That's not proper distribution if that's what u are referring to.

I have a question about this.. What if, like me, i have 6 batts and 4 amps? Each amp will be wired to be able to pull up to 600A of actual current.. So.. i'm assuming it would be a bad idea to run 2,400A worth of potential draw ALL to one post and let the cabling or buss bars split the draw... I'm assuming resistance would build up at that post, correct? So.. if that's true, how would be the best way to wire it up in that scenario?

yes. while i would typically say it would be inaudible.. in this case, it wouldnt. the Alpine is twice the output power if used vs aq2200d in current installation. For btl installation, doubling of impedance would result in AQ being 200w louder, which is completely inaudible.

stop... Why is there a voltage problem? what was the voltage? If it's because the alternator cannot keep up.. then that's user error. IF you refuse to upgrade to a high output alt, then u need to give the stock alt plenty of time to maintain the batteries in the car.. Otherwise u can add 10 D3100s, it will only take longer before u have the same problem again.

no, they are not, and they are not underrated either. I'm talking about REAL power. If you actually think wiring to 1ohm u will peak at 1ohm, u are sadly mistaken. There is a reason why to look at all advertised ohm loads on an amp when trying to see which one seems to be the one that puts out the most power for the money... For the OP's question, i have already stated this- The alpine will be my choise as it will be louder in current installation and be on par(According to specs) on the btl install. A user i've talked to in the past said his apline was louder than the aq on a direct swap.. but that's hearsay. Why would alpine be louder than AQ on current setup? Alpine does 1000w @2ohm AND @4ohm. AQ does 1200w @2ohm and 510w @4ohm It's typical that during playback, impedance curve may only peak at 2x the dcr value of the sub... maybe even higher., but usually rarely lower. So when the impedance curve is factored, the alpine will be twice as loud as the AQ is on current install and on par with BTL install.

This statement shows to me u do not understand what i am basing my decision on.. I can go into great detail as to how my current build i'm doing can run over 5kw of actual power to a single XL(rated at 1500wrms) for 30sec averages and run COOLER than a 2,400w amp @1ohm... but this topic isn't about that..

sorry but Crescendo uses S&I, just like DC soundlab and the 4500 is built by another buildhouse too.. but not zenon like the others. And why would jake do that? i do not know.. ask him. I'm not saying the AQ is ugly or anything but if he gets a btl and wired at 1ohm to an aq2200d.. he won't ever see anywhere near 2200w... that's why i am recommending the alpine because it's only like $40-50 more than the AQ and realistic power output will be\should be equal to the aq2200d, but the alpine will do far better also for his current setup vs wiring an aq2200 at 2ohm.

And also.. Crescendo doesn't use Zenon and Sundown 4500 isn't Zenon based either. I can't speak of the other brands..

are you giving advice for the best amp in the power range or for his application? An Alpine PDX.1000 @2ohm will be WAY louder than an AQ2200d at 2ohm... Plug, when he gets a BTL, he can get a Dual 1ohm BTL and still be just as good. It's not hard to realize this as the PDX does 1000w at 2 and 4ohm... Unless one wires the AQ2200d at 0.5ohm which is stupid for daily, the alpine is better because it works for both applications, not just this one.

not only is the PDX.1000 just as powerful as an aq2200d when wired to it's lowest recommended load- Alpine = 2ohm \ AQ = 1ohm But even after a doubling of impedance, the alpine will continue to put out the same power whereas, like most amps, will lose about 50% of it's power. There was even a user on here that was telling me a while back about what i'm suggesting to you saying he did the same exact thing i'm tellin u now. He went from an AQ2200d to an Alpine PDX.1000 and it got a lot louder.. I wasn't surprised because i know what one should expect from that amp.

try and get an Alpine PDX.1000 You will thank me later

Cool.. all spectators need sunblock... guess i'll be bringing it regardless.

let me say this so we are on the same page. Even though u may have a battery in the back, an experienced friend wired everything properly.. even if u had a high output alt, etc... there is always the possiblity of something that's not right.. Why did you make this topic.. because your amp has a problem... It doesn't matter if someone experienced set it up or that u have an extra battery in the back.. we are STILL going to have to check those areas for process of elimination. So, possible causes i am leaning towards- PS damaged from low voltage and\or low impedance. The reasons arent necessary right now. What is necessary is finding the fault. Ground connection is weak Extremely hot back there around amp Damage from loose cable grounding out Damage from internal vibrations So.. how are we to do the process of elimination? I need a DMM and that alone will take care of most possible causes.

so now it went from protection light on to not on to blinking... Seriously, if u do not know how the subs are wired, do not know how to use a dmm.. then i cannot help you. Get someone who can and i will be able to relate.

and no high output alt.. hmm... What is your stock alternator rated at? Also, typical causes is damage to the power supply... Not giving you a definite answer but leaning towards it. What sub(s) were you powering and measure ohm value on DMM on the speaker wire that was going into the amp and tell me what it reads.

yea, i can get red and i think green but i'd have to order a bulk load of them.

mine do nto have a remote wire, it's self powered off the power line it's measuring. It also auto-senses light in the environment as well. When it gets dark outside, the display will automatically dim so it's not blinding to read. These meters pull a maximum of 0.3A under full load and 0.17A at night.

yep, he's almost right... Several months ago, i posted, not on this forum, that i would be ordering a bulk order of these voltmeters. I specifically said that the users can purchase them individually out of the country for cheaper than going through me but here is the breakdown- The company i purchase them through urges not to order them individually as they are frequently lost in customs and urge to purchase in larger quantities. The actual price for a single voltmeter is $12 shipped. It will take 21-28days for you to receive it if you purchase out of the country. There are MANY imitators on ebay of these meters but only 1 stands out. these have no POT inside of them. These use lots of internals to ensure they run ice cold. Accuracy is 0.08% within 3 min and can read up to 30vDC There was a rush of these meters before because nobody had any true 18v meters until now... So, i'm not tryin to scam anybody into thinking they are getting a helluva deal. My business does not evolve around this market, hehe. It's something i just have on hand and to prevent me from breaking below even, the price sold in the usa must be doubled to take into account processing fees, shipping and taxes. that's the whole shabang.

i'll be there.. but do not know if i'm competing or spectating... If i'm spectating, i'll bring some sunblock, LMAO. If i'm competing.. i'll bring my 1st place trophy