shizzzon

then u will get a mythical answer

If your first name is Samuel... is your last name 6731? hehe. I also work on computers as well as many other things. PM me and tell me what's goin on with your internet and i'll tell u what to do or point you in the right direction to fix your problem.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Pioneer-Premier-DEH-P800PRS-iPod-Dash-Receiver-/170613903465?pt=Car_Audio_In_Dash_Receivers&hash=item27b9619069

ok.. well, like i said.. he was nervous apparently.. Can't wait to see how he explains to us how to wire up Hank's 48 10s

Obviously you didn't notice that he wired the sub in parallel Um... no he didn't.. he DID wire the sub in series...

well.. like i said, slight stumble of words... he did get his primary point across... We showed how to wire in series, or double the ohm load... however he said it. Now, if he made a vid just strictly saying, i'm gonna show u how to wire in series.. then ended wiring in parallel.. well.. that's a whole other story, hehe.

how is it fail? He didn't say anything wrong.. just a couple stumbles with words probably because he's being recorded.. but nothing wrong in the vid that i see.

if screws are used, you "can" pull them out but i wouldnt see the reason behind that.. Too much pointless labor..

:banhim: :bsflag: :fing23: :faintthud: :dammit: :Doh: :deadhorse:

what exactly do u mean? The 4 18s are Lvl 5s The 6 15s are Lvl4 XLs In terms of mods.. i do not know if i need DC to do anything crucial to the subs... I have plenty of possible team mods i can have done.. but won't get into that since i don't even know what subs i'm runnin yet, lol

pics of bracing, eh.. the pics of the 12s are the only ones i showed bracing but that pic was done quite a while back... The other options show no bracing as it's not really necessary to choose an option. I'm stuck between 4 18s and 6 15s... In all honesty, i at first was thinking 6 15s.. but now.. 4 18s is makin me wonder...

If your wood doesn't suck, screws do just as good of job I wasn't implying screws suck period.. That was taken out of context. What i am implying is excessive use of screws is bad. I havent been in this topic in a while but i'm pretty sure that's the point that was being expressed by me when i was stating using screws like i see many people do to screw their baffles together is pointless.. I've seen people use around 60 screws just for that!?!?! Instead, it would be quicker and probably stronger to just lay a large amount of weight on the center of the baffles and clamp the hell out of the sides all the way around. But.. this is more technique than the only way.. Since there is no only way to do it.. this really isn't debatable.

OK, so we got 2 votes for the 18s... 1 curious vote about the 4 12s, hehe. Let me toss this out there as a little bit more info about the designs being presented here... The 4 18s will more than likely be housed in ~18-19cuft NET. DC Soundlab has already assured me that with the power on hand, the volume isn't too small. Tuned @35hz with 360sqin of port The 6 15s will more than likely be housed in 22cuft NET. This will allow them to be used in an enclosure which exceeds optimal requirements. Tuned @35hz with 230sqin of port The 6 15s have more motor, more cone area, more coils to dissipate heat, more volume... But the 18s have much more port...... hmm.... And don't think that's not enough port... My first wall was 4 15s off of 11,000w clamped in only 13.5cuft with 144sqin of port and pulled a 153.4db at the head and a 156.8 in the kick.

the "other things" like weight suspension, space, wiring, electrical system, etc... has all been taken care of for each and every design. All designs posted above already have a full start to finish layout for them to become a reality.

26.5v is the expected AC voltage to obtain 350w@2ohms... However.... It would be safe to probably go over this number a little because voltage typically increases a little with impedance due to the stress it puts on the power supply. Notice on many big amps how they may be rated as follows- 1000w @4ohm 1800w @2ohm 3000w @1ohm When u see an amp such as this- 1000w @4ohm 2000w @2ohm 4000w @1ohm You should expect to be disappointed...honestly. So, a slight increase in voltage with impedance rise is what usually happens. Now, instead of getting all technical on where the amp should be.. just do what stefanhinote said. You are not on a dying level to have the amp set in such a way to get every single 0.1v out of it.. If you have to ask, you are not competing, therefore nothing crucial is necessary.

in a real world.. according to a graph.. the 10s are shown to produce the least pressure regardless of tuning including the low end I do not know why i posted that as an option as i discussed it with a friend of mine that i more than likely will not go with that design ever... Cancelation will be a major issue and it's the design with the least power and motor force. That would work great for a 4th order but my car isn't large enough to attempt to do an averaging 160 in any type of bandpass.

Hello once again... While i am patiently waiting for the next few months for companies to contact me back so i can buy their products........ i'm going to start planning the next build... But.. wow is there so many options... So, i want others feedback on what you think i should do and why? Car is 2007 Scion tC. goal is to break 160.. if i dont, oh well, if i do, yay! hehe. Specific goal- this is not a burp only vehicle. This is an averaging-mode vehicle so harder to get to that 160! Options i have- Option number 1- 16 10" DC Soundlab Lvl3s powered by a Single SounDigital 12Kw @35hz tuning. Another option- 4 DC Soundlab Lvl5 18s powered by 2 SounDigital 12Kws @32hz Another option- 6 15" DC Soundlab Lvl4 XLs powered by 2 SounDigital 12KWs @35hz Last option i have right now- 4 12" DC Soundlab Lvl5s powered by 2 SounDigital 12KWs @ 35hz This design is lined with concrete, hence why less cone area. So.. what do u guys think? And no.. I'm not doin 64 8s, lol

i'll start ur box in a couple days hopefully. Gotta get his specs so he can build this thing.. yet again, lol. Now, Stu.. a word of warning.... If i do a design for you and come to find out you measured incorrectly like Dave did.. oh man.... I'm bringin the Posse and haulin ass up there and we all goin to Applebees for 13hrs straight and nobody's leavin until Hove finishes all 25 plates of food i'm gonna make him order... then i'm gonna shove a tape measure up someone's ass and tip the waitress whatever number comes out first. Besides that, i feel pretty confident in your design Stu. Oh.. and Casey, if u see this... you're next after Stu. Ok man, box specs- Remember before i begin- the FLOOR ( between wheel wells) and TOP are SINGLE layer. EVERYTHING else BUT the inner port walls are double layered. Now let's begin- Floor- 38" wide 28" deep Back wall-(sits on top of floor)(double layered) This is the piece that looks like a thick "T" Bottom part of back wall- 38" wide 6.5" tall After 6.5" tall, proceed with the following- 48" wide 23" tall Total height of back wall- 29.5" tall Lower Side walls- (double layered) These fit in FRONT of the back wall on the lower portion of the back wall. 6.5" tall 26.5" deep It is the same on both sides Now, the floor that will overlap the wheel wells.(double layered) Remember, it will sit a little bit over the wheel wells so it's advisable to fill between this and the wheel wells to brace after building this box. This flooring is for the ports and dimensions are same on both sides. This flooring is also mounted on top of the Lower side walls explained above. 6.5" wide 26.5" deep (make sure u let these completely dry before attaching anymore pieces to this piece because it is only being held by the lower side wall and the back wall...) The UPPER side walls- (double layered) Same on both sides- These will amount on top of the floor you just made above(and after it has fully cured! very important) 21.5" tall 26.5" deep Next is the inner port wall- This is single layered and has same specs on both sides. 22.25" deep 21.5" tall This gets mounted on the floor that is mounted on top of the lower side wall. So, you will mount this on the edge of the floor, leaving EXACTLY 4.25" width between this wall and the UPPER side wall on both sides of the box. ALSO, when mounted properly, there should also be EXACTLY 4.25" of space between the back of this port wall and the BACK wall of the box. Now, onto the baffle-(double layered) This mounts in between the lower side walls, the floor above those and in between the inner port walls. 35" wide 29.5" tall Subwoofer CENTERING positions. The following is to ensure that your sub cutouts will fit onto this baffle staggered. The following specs are based on an X/Y axis. X= horizontal Y= vertical Measurements are made measured FROM the LOWER LEFT corner of the baffle. So, if i say- x=6, y=12 that means, from lower left corner, go 6" to the right, and 12" up. Now, here are specs- speaker 1 mounted on top left of baffle- X= 9 5/8" Y= 19 3/4" speaker 2 mounted on lower right of baffle- X= 25 9/16" Y= 9 1/2" PLEASE NOTE- Please make sure i am using the proper information for making these cutouts PRIOR to assuming i'm right. Cutouts are based on following assumption- Cutout hole- 16.75" diameter Outer diameter- 18.5" If that's right, then my numbers are safe. Also, please use a compass or take your router bit and graze it across the mdf to scratch a circle around the baffle to MAKE sure that you have your center point exactly where it needs to be and there will be no mounting or sub placement problems! I'll let you know about the internal bracing when u get there.. Do NOT put baffle on before installing most of the internal bracing though! When u are ready for the baffle, let me know! Also, the top is- 48" wide 28" deep

ur right. i just got off the phone with xs power about it too :)im just wanting to know where and how much these amps are...otherwise, ill just have to run 8 audiopipe aqx3500s.. i really dont wanna do that.. but i have plenty of backup options

ur right. i just got off the phone with xs power about it too :)im just wanting to know where and how much these amps are...otherwise, ill just have to run 8 audiopipe aqx3500s.. i really dont wanna do that.. but i have plenty of backup options

I guess i should add this- The vehicle will always be on. It will be supplied with either a 270A alt, or a 390A alt, or dual 320s.. the choice of the alt options aren't my choice, but for worst-case scenario sake, let's say it's a 270A. Vehicle will ALWAYS be at or above 2krpm for proper alt output. I have voltmeters i will have wired at the amp's terminals to ensure i never drop at or lower than 11.0v. Here is some info i have been reading and wnat to bring it into this topic as a reason as to why i believe i may have enough batts for the scenario.. The A-Team last year ran 4 Stetsom 11kds on only 8 D3100. that's 44,000w on 880aH. They bassraced this setup on 8 15s and never dropped below 11.8v. I do not know their alt setup but even they admitted that they were very surprised at the voltage sustained for 30sec. They had clamped around 6800w out of each amp. Now, i will have 6 of these batts and am wanting to run 28kw rather than 44kw. I plan on running 4 18" Lvl5s. A pair of these subs can handle 14kw with ease. Wiring? I custom built my own fuse blocks, buss bars and will run as many runs of wire as possible. If i need to run 4 sets of 2/0 out of each amp, then so be it. I am in full control of the install and i will build anything i need to. I hope this is enough info for you. I also wish for you to PM pricing on these amps and possibly a link to a manual for these amps. I am new to stetsom, but have experience with high powered applications.

Wow, your definition of clean is obvously not what many of us are thinking... The W7 and the L7 are NOT NO WHERE NEAR in the same class together... It appears to me your definition of clean is just a proper built box, no whistling, no chuffing, no turbulence... From this aspect, your options have opened wider but... I would say you want - Fi BL.

i'm looking at 4 subs, 0.7ohms DCR, rise will probably be high due to high motor force. Car will be on at 2k rpm The subs can take the power for 30sec because of high impedance rise.

this isnt exact science, frequency that produces said pressure will have a great effect on what was mentioned above. Typically, the lower the frequency, the sooner it may happen.

145 is around where it starts to tickle your ears or u start to feel slight pressure in them 150 is around where u will have feelings of chest pressure and heavy pressure in ur ears 155 is around where u are at a point that will be impossible to swallow and will not be able to take the pressure in ur ears for long durations 160 is around where if u do not get out of the vehicle soon, u will more than likely experience immediate hearing damage longterm without knowing it right away.