shizzzon

OK, this IS the new measured design... Now, all u have to worry about is finding that purple MDF to go inside of that left port, lol. Box is as follows- 2 18" ZCons 14.0cuft NET @31hz 182sqin of port Bracing out the ASS. There will be more bracing that what's in the pic but pointless to draw as it's been discussed over the phone... Also, if you want, u may want to build a structure on the back of the wall out of 2x4s since u will have PLENTY of room behind it with this new design if it wants to start flexing like crazy.

I have never once seen dark mdf around here, but i have also not used mdf in about a year either... Last box i built was out of 1.5" birch. I don't use mdf anymore because the cost of mdf keeps rising where other materials are staying the same price. That's why i'll be switching over to hardwood at the minimum... or oak if i could get a discount. phi.. of course dry times change with temperature. You only wanted to use screws... because like i said before, u wanted to piece it all together at once and didn't have time to wait. This is taken from their website- we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours. For Titebond Polyurethane Glue, we recommend clamping for at least forty-five minutes. The glue is completely cured within 6 hours. Since i'm never in a hurry when i build a wall, i let all my pieces dry for roughly 16-20hrs before working with them again and i only work with them in hot temps anyways. No screws... Look up hometheater forums.. Most of them do not use screws either.. It's simple- if u got clamps.. why use screws? Glue is the strongest bonding agent in the build. The only reason to use screws is if u are in an hurry.. and i'm never in a hurry to build a box as that will cause mistakes. Using unnecessary amount of screws can cause the glue to not adhere properly to the surface being applied to. I am not singling myself out on this opinion.. many people do not use screws if they have clamps and have never had a problem because.. glue is stronger than screws. Clamps vs screws.. clamps are better and faster.

yes u can, just take into account that not using a slot port will increase displacement because u must factor both port walls instead of just 1 side. Make sure u account for this so u know what your new net volume is and how long the port must be as depth requirement will now change.

I'ma say no. Screw the baffles together. Its a longer wait than 30-45 mins. You don't remember that shitty box we put together. lol. I only use heavy items when i won't be doing anymore work and just leave the stuff laying overnight. Just glue, clamp, and screw the first baffle to the box and then line up the next baffle and glue, clamp, and screw to the first baffle. Be done in 15 mins tops. I'm going to disagree with your disagreement, lol. Titebond only takes 30min of pressure before u can release it and let it fully cure. I built the wall that way. Triple baffled, not a single screw on that thing. Just clamps on the outsides and weight in the middle (motors) The next day, that baby was solid as a rock. I have never screwed a baffle down.. You do it so you can work with the pieces while they cure. I am not in a hurry when i build it, therefore let them cure overtime.

don't screw the baffles together.. that's freakin stupid... I've seen people do it and it's SO a waste of time. Just get a bunch of heavy items- subs, concrete blocks, batteries.. things to keep pressure on the wood for bout 30-45min and that's it. Constantly running that many screws into the baffle will just weaken it and take a lot of labor for no reason.

Ok, let's say lay this out for you so we get the picture of the setup- 6 D3100s = 660aH, 30,000 MA 1 D5100 = 60aH, 3100MA Total = 720aH, 33,100MA Highoutput alt between 270-640A.. unknown at this time. Was planning on running 2 Stetsom 14kds. If you think the electrical is not up to your standards, let me provide usage details. Under maximum power demand on music- duration time of 30-45seconds. All other types of usage- Burps- 0.8-2.6seconds constant use- VERY low power consumption- typically under 80A so i know i got that covered, lol. So, for typical 30sec runs, this electrical system should be fair for 2 of these amps right? I'll put it this way.. I do many tests on my car electrical-wise to ensure the longevity of my equipment. If i were to install 1,000,000w of power in this car on that electrical, i know that wouldnt work for 30sec runs but i can find the sweet spot on how much attenuation i might need. So, if i'm borderline with your opinion, i can always attenuate what power might be too much. I'm just curious, in your opinion, how much suggested power i can run off of this electrical setup for 30-45sec without dropping below 11.0v I believe i should be ok with this but u never know.... After every show, i unplug and manually charge ALL batts with a battery charger to ensure top notch performance. No batts are installed in the car if they rest below 13.0v Also, I need you to PM me about competitive pricing for 2 Stetsom 14kds as well I am installing in a 2007 Scion tC in a wall probably 4 18s from DC Soundlab. Competition Sanctions i would be in - MECA USACi (maybe) FCBC - organized in KY, USA only I am also the National Importer in control of all distribution for SPL-Lab in Russia. So, I am always around the competition scene.

It must be your location.. All MDF all of us competitors have ever bought in our area is fine. It takes a sledgehammer with several hits to a street box just to break the joints apart to throw the box away. We get all our MDF at Lowes. I'll be going a different route for my wall this summer. Goin with Hardwood. $50 per sheet here. I would go with Oak but.. unless i get a good deal on other things, i don't feel like spending $70 per sheet when i need several.

u know he first told me 38" but the door wouldnt shut so he told me 36" to be safe. He'll see this and it'll freak him out and go back out there and remeasure.. then call me on the phone..............................................again....

if it doesn't fit, u can blame the OP for giving me the wrong dimensions... This design rests above the wheel wells. ALL side panels have been removed to gain maximum width. The design will be anchored to a false floor between the wheel wells which is anchored to the vehicle's floor. This design is as follows externally- 28" high 59.5" wide 36" deep

us too.. It;s 20cuft net @36hz, port plugged @28hz. The port in the pic is at 36hz at 365sqin of port!!!!!!! it's taking 6-7 sheets of mdf to build.

ok, this is what it better look like when u build it! And i'm not playin either.. u better have white and purple mdf or else it's gonna fail, lol The purple underneath the front of the box is your vehicle's floor. I had drawn out the cabin area then drew the box within. And remember, the 2 back corners are 4x4s. Titebond then into place on both the side and back wall and Poly Adhese them once the titebond is dried. Build your 45s in front, and fill them in with foam. to build this inside a vehicle, you will want to go out and buy a LOT of L brackets. 4,5, or 6" brackets is all fine. You just need something to keep a grip on things when waiting for the glue to dry.

u should be getting your design by the end of this week. David has confirmed that he wants to go balls to the wall.. Mandatory that i design a wall behind C pillar so it's up to him to seal it up and cosmetically take care of the rest.

thats fine i guess.. we'll see this week.

i want to come, i want to come!!! Yea slamology is fun.. especially when i get to squirt people with SPF 10000 and only get SPF 4 out of it. Hey.. you know.. I think Chuck should run 96 15s in his burban off of a 1,000w amp, LMAO! You'll love it! Let me get that box design for ya.. You gonna need 76 sheets of MDF, i do know that, hehe.

Any of ShiZZZoN's songs... Be expecting some new demo vids this summer.

oh i have never heard large ports were peaky.. If tuned right, they are more efficient, obviously.

OK, you have entered my territory now.. Part of that sentence is wrong. I agree with same amplitude only when viewing it as sine peak vs square peak. Now, same mechanical.. that's a tricky statement to make. What exactly are you implying about same mechanical? A square wave is made up of more than 1 center frequency unlike a sine wave which only has 1 center frequency, hence the reason a square wave sounds.. violent and ackward. A speaker trying to produce this will have a different mechanical properpty and there is NO way to guarantee it's maximum excursion is the same from sine vs square because of this. And, sine vs square does NOT produce the same dB. I have physically done that test and know this. To sum the test up- When the amplifiers are providing a clean signal, a square wave is significantly louder than a sine, over 1db easy. However, when the source square wave is clipped.. the sine wave prevails and the output is the complete opposite. The sine wave clipped is now over 1db louder than a clipped square wave. There is more information in a square wave.. easy for it to be louder on the meter than a sine.. but only up to a certain point. In competition, running into clipping can still increase pressure output but only to a certain point until you clip too much and start to lose pressure. When using a square wave, the headroom is FAR lower when going into clipping on the amp, therefore will suffer pressure output loss far sooner which results in a clipped sine wave boasting over a clipped square wave. Maximum overall scores driven into clipping- sine wave is louder. When running low power OR clean power, the square wave is pulling more power out of the amp even though both waves share the same peak amplitude. This is because there is more information present in a square wave but less headroom,

lol, i guess if u on vacation for the weekend, better make the best of it.

i believe you are referring to mechanical bandwidth? If your design is using far too large of a port, it can cause the sub(s) to unload a lot easier reducing the available bandwidth that can be played for a mechanical reason.

personally, if you want to run some nice stuff... I'd ditch the RF amp and go with a Cadence ZRS amp and upgrade to a better head unit.. I know you probably chose that headunit because of it's compatible features but spending a lot more on a company like Alpine.. you might lose some of these features but what you lose, you'll gain in quality and durability. Most of the low end Alpine's are like any other cheap headunit.. Their $400 and up headunits are very nice for years to come.

i better not see u stalkin me before the show, hehe.

if it's asking you to then YES

video could be one of these 3- http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/format.aspx?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&deviceid=4137&libid=6&releaseid=R96001&vercnt=3&formatcnt=0&SystemID=DIM_PNT_P4_CEL_2400&servicetag=&os=WW1&osl=en&catid=-1&dateid=-1&typeid=-1&formatid=-1&impid=-1&checkFormat=true http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/format.aspx?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&deviceid=6294&libid=6&releaseid=R79733&vercnt=1&formatcnt=0&SystemID=DIM_PNT_P4_CEL_2400&servicetag=&os=WW1&osl=en&catid=-1&dateid=-1&typeid=-1&formatid=-1&impid=-1&checkFormat=true http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/format.aspx?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&deviceid=2441&libid=6&releaseid=R86399&vercnt=3&formatcnt=0&SystemID=DIM_PNT_P4_CEL_2400&servicetag=&os=WW1&osl=en&catid=-1&dateid=-1&typeid=-1&formatid=-1&impid=-1&checkFormat=true Audio- http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/format.aspx?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&deviceid=2430&libid=3&releaseid=R94481&vercnt=4&formatcnt=0&SystemID=DIM_PNT_P4_CEL_2400&servicetag=&os=WW1&osl=en&catid=-1&dateid=-1&typeid=-1&formatid=-1&impid=-1&checkFormat=true

Hey, i need to know the Device tag for your hardware so this is what u need to tell me so i can help you. Go to Device manager, double click each uninstalled device, go to Detail tab. On dropdown menu, select Hardware ID. It will show something like - VEN_xxxx&DEVxxxx&..... I need you to tell me what the 4 characters are after VEN and DEV.

i heavily disagree. the AQ20kw does an average of around 8-9kw on a typical 12v system so 2 N3s on that should be purely fine. However.. the N3s are not smooth at all.. and you could get better sound and better lows from an N2.