shizzzon

Waiting for Maxxsonics to return my call with regards to this so while i wait, let's see if any of you know this- OK, we all know the Maxxlink is a processor that can take up to 10 amps and strap them externally as 5 set pairs. This is where i want to make sure i can do this... Instead of strapping mono channel amps together, can u strap amps that have been internally strapped? IE - one board is sold as a 1500w amp @1ohm and another amp has 2 of these boards in it rated at 3000w @2ohm.. Would you know if u set these amps up in bridge mode to form a mono channel if one can safely use a maxxlink and strap a pair of amps like this to 6,000w@4ohm? Also, from what i gather.. if the Maxxlink is only a Line driver and crossover.. does the maxxlink do anything in terms of accomplishing the strap? I wouldnt try to bypass the unit but it looks as if it does nothing special or nothing at all really... for a 2 amp setup- take Left signal and put it in Master amp and take Right signal and put it in Slave amp. What's the difference in using a Maxxlink vs y splitting the rcas urself and forcing an amp to become strappable? the thing that makes me leery is force-strapping... Even when using a maxxlink.. how can i be guaranteed using internally strapped amps are even compatible?

when i say bad, i mean to get the fullest life out of the batts. they prob last u a good 5yrs or so.. but if u abide by manufacturer's recommendations, batts can last a LONG time.

that just means it can handle a few hundred more watts til it dies. I think 1500wrms.

He's running them STRAPPED! So he's wired for 1800w potential.

Tech N9ne I'mma Tell. I Love me some Tech N9ne

i've never owned DD but have AQ. If dd's sound like AQ, then DC all the way! My AQs sounded non linear compared to DC subs and i thought AQ sounded great until i switched.

in terms of getting loud... u might should ask.. which subs are NOT comparable to those then... I can get pretty much anything loud.. many of us can.

what? 1800w is 1800w. Average pull for music will prob be around 60-110A, not 30A... also, you would want the BIGGER battery with lower IR and higher MA to be in the back. That would probably be the Deka. The amp will get it's power from a source of the lowest resistance.. the back battery will feed the majority of the power to it while the starting battery will have little to do with it. When i had 2 3500ds in my car... i had 2 XS batts in the back with stock batt up front. Pulling 270A of current, my stock battery only contributed 23 of those amps.

And then just a couple posts later... uh... should i even respond yet?

it still doesnt work... Says video has been removed

http://www.facebook.com/v/471177400399

Just wanna let you all know.. if you live close or are willing to drive to Louisville, KY, we gots some more deals goin on around here. One of my buddies is now selling 5x8 ft sheets of 3\4" MDF for $20 a sheet. So if you are looking at saving some money... Contact me. and as always, we are still distributing Deka 9A31s for $120 flat. I figure i post it in the build log cuz u ain't gettin no Wood until u see my car

no, 6th order too big to fit in my car

What r you trying to do.... Amp me up? lol

Is it THIS build log again... yep it is! Just wanted to let everyone know, i'm starting to gather some steel and gutting everything out of the tC that needs to be removed. I'm gonna be applying Steel flats to the furthest out parts of the vehicle so i can form a frame to work inside of. Headliner will be replaced so i can attach wall to roof of vehicle for better structural support. Headliner WILL BE fiberglassed INTO the wall and detachable as well so if i take the wall out.. the headliner doesnt have to come with it... I have been slowly spreading the word that i may not make it to finals in October to compete at MECA and if i dont.. oh well.. This build is gonna be one u just might wanna check out... IAK will sure get one of the first dibs on what it sounds like as they aren't too far away from me. I do not know what i'm running yet... so build progress will be of the build for the time being. Give me a few days and i'll start gettin some work in progress goin. Loudest tC on the net... Here we go again!

hmm.. u say u want to do gaming... regardless of how fast your laptop is.. many laptops do not support highly integrated video chips for such use. Now, i've been away from laptop technology advances for a few yrs so u should look into that. Also, do some research- Because of the problem, i've heard at least one company, if not more by now, start testing external video cards to plug up to laptops to allow them to play today's games in HD. I do not know if such product(s) exist yet though.

do u really need all that? What r u using it for?

so basically i'd remove my headliner, cover it in reynolds wrap.. lay down cloth and resin it a few times.. After that(i'm retaining the view thru my sunroof), i cut whatever i want to out of it for custom purposes for adding things up in there then just sand, paint(or wrap) and install it the same way the original was? Here is where it get's tricky- My headliner is held in via Velcro. Some locations like sunvisors and dome light, etc.. have screws ran through the stock headliner but the rest is held in with velcro. I'm assuming a fiberglassed mold will be significantly heavier than the stock headliner... What else can I use besides velcro that will still allow me to remove the headliner because i do not think velcro is strong enough.

i've got a bunch of it but i already knew of it's decreased performance capability prior to purchasing. That's why I bought so much of it because i am using it for multi run installations on everything, including amps, then cover them up with no-Ox... Something others should do with their welding cables that i never really see...

Would someone be so kind to briefly walk me thru the process of how to properly secure a fiberglassed roof? Basically.. i'll take the headliner down.. build a wall in my car, then from the B pillar on forward, that will be fiberglassed, ok? this is where i get lost.... How do i attach the fiberglass mold to the vehicle so i could remove it again if i needed to?

There's competition? Huh.. learn somethin new everyday

Example- dual 2 ohm sub- 2ohm - nominal load IE 1.4 ohms typical DCR value when measured on a DMM. The DCR value will always be lower than the nominal load when measured on a DMM. During play... well that changes drastically but not really necessary for this conversation. So... i'm curious how u are getting these possible load configurations... I'm assuming they are DCR but the numbers are so odd.. u must be running many coils?

internal height is 16.5", external - 18" single layered port side, top and bottom Keep port's flare edge about 3-5" from the back wall

6: Aero 18" long. 3.1cuft NET @33hz Pay close attention- The baffle, back and LEFT side are dual layered.

Oh and btw, Welcome Juggalo. I've got the Hatchet Swingin on the back of my ride.