shizzzon

hey KU40- i've ran 1100A of current through 320A of fusing for about 1.5 seconds before the fuses blew but was long enough to get the score i needed. From what i've seen, Mini-ANL fuses can handle up to 3.5x their rating continuously for about 2 seconds. AGU fuses can handle 2x their rating continuously for about 6-8 seconds. When going above 2x their rating.. they start to go pretty quick! I have yet to test ANLs.

And a lens that can resolve 2MP. Ridiculous to put so much marketing into something so useless. They do have the capability to record at a real 30fps finally. Ever since my real video camera broke a few yrs ago, i've been waiting for a phone strong enough to do this... I never did any serious recording but 10fps is pure terrible. At the end of this year Samsung is going to be releasing the Galaxy which records in 720p @30fps.

we got a SA-12 in a buddy of mine's scion tc tuned at 40-41hz for daily and it sounds great. The natural peak inside the hatch will be 42-43hz. When i use to do a design in my hatch, i tuned to 38hz on a pair of hdc3s and it sounded great too. What i'm saying is you might want to tune in the high 30s in the back of this car. Box design alone doesn't account for where it sounds great at. We've also seen this in some trucks too but that's another story.

i know the difference in XS Power is the racing batts are lighter and not as strong.

i'd go 5702V to save money.. If u like full color remotes, get the 5902v but it's $200 more. Also, u gotta purchase all sensors and extra alarms and bulletproof laminate sheeting separate. My security system is well over $1,000, it's around $1,400.

Viper security with dual shock, internal proximity, tilt sensor, 2way radio, internal battery, dual external siren, multi internal siren.. bulletproof laminate sheeting. need i say more?

yea, u really don't require aH for pretty much anything really unless u run the battery for long periods of time without a charge going to it. MA- for comp burps CA- for bassrace\driveby other musical averages. CCA- same as above for colder climate aH\RC- measured on low current draw over long periods of time without a charge. Little tip... when comparing 2 batteries of like size, if the aH ratings are different but are the same group size... then u will witness the following- When you have 1 battery that has higher aH than another of the same group size, it's MA rating will be lower... So you have to choose what you will use the battery most for so u get the best choice.. Bigger aH and lower MA = best for daily driving Lower aH and higher MA= best for competition burps and 30sec averages Now, don't get me wrong, big aH can still be used in the lanes and lower aH can still be used on daily just fine but best choice will provide the longest run with the highest voltage level possible before the battery is completely dead.

SSA Forum - * Bigrank916 - USB/LCD Meter * oscar r - USB Pro Meter * SexySoundLab - USB Meter * power-fanatic07 - USB/LCD Meter * john denver - USB/LCD Meter * B-chi - USB/LCD Meter * nsuvltr - USB/LCD Meter * 1loudsvt - USB/LCD Meter * harveywong - USB/LCD Meter Other Forums - * 01SpyderDb23 - USB Meter * 90TalonTSi - USB Meter * original iceman(UK) - USB/LCD Meter ROE Forums - * lifesfordeath - USB/LCD Meter * bwoodroof - USB Meter CA Forums - * audio_phill - RTA with enlarged bandwidth to 10hz-22khz CACO Forums- * Team Aftermath - Robert - USB/LCD Meter Other Locations- * D.A.G. - USB/LCD Meter Total - 17 Can we get to 25 for the ultimate discount? Please know that the group buy is about to end soon so be sure to have the money ready. Only 2 Days left. 8 more people to enter to get the next discount...

A friend of mine who is new to car audio unplugged his hifonics amp and didnt know to remove the connection to the battery when plugging it back up. He hooked the ground up first then he hooked up the power, it started arc welding inside and he removed it. I got over there and removed the fuse, hooked the wires up then when i put the fuse in, the fuse blew immediately. So i assumed he blew the power supply since the stereo wasn't on. He uses one of those devices to convert speaker outputs from stock headunit into rcas. So i put my amp in there and everything was fine. When i took my amp out, we decided to hook the amp up again.. if the fuse blew again... then we knew is was done for... Well, i hooked up pwoer\ground and remote only, placed fuse in and it didnt blow! So i then took the fuse out, hooked up speaker wire only and placed fuse back in, still didnt blow! I was currently jumping the remote wire over to power so the amp was on at this point. So while car and stereo still off but amp still on, i told him to plug up rcas then turn on stereo. As soon as he plugs rcas in, the amp generated a constant test tone... He pulled the rcas immediately. I took a multimeter, one probe on amp's ground, other probe inside rca. Testing resistance, read nothing. I then touched the outer shield of the rca... As soon as i did this, the amp SURGED and send a LOUD BOOM through the speaker... I don't know what to think from that so was wondering what could cause this?

Really.. well tell him this since this is taken directly from IASCA- any commercially available CD that contains musical tracks or test tone tracks can be used to compete at Single Point (SPE) events. The official IASCA “Max dB2” CD is the required judging software at DPE (Double Point Event) or TKE (Territorial Key Event) events. That means if they have to supply the disc, THEY MUST let you know what the disc(s) is\are so you can find out what song you would like to use so u can tune for it.

How bout this- Executed by 4 Death Penalties

??? no it's not. In MECA, ALL classes except Radical(which is on the dash) can be measured on the driver side headrest. It is the user's choice and experience to know what side of their car is louder. also, in Amateur Street, you can ONLY measure on the driver side headrest. I tell people alot that no one can compare one sanction's scores to MECA because MECA measures in reality SPL and is a LOT harder to get loud. so when you see someone doin mid 50s on the dash... don't be surprised if they can barely surpass a 50 at the headrest since that's where all the "demos" are done u see online. What many people think they are hearing isn't as loud as you think Even though i could only do a max of a 153.4 at the head, i was easily breaking 157s in the kick. The windshield isn't too far off from the kick but since windshield's note is a LOT higher than that at the headrest, it's easier to get loud there.

nah, if i knew the song, i could help u retune your setup to peak at these songs

3 more days until the deadline!

doesn't sound fair to me. I'd just not go because there are too many variables involved to determine a winner. Someone who is louder at one note won't be at another.

find the songs they will use and i can help

i dont like metered on the dash because it's not reality.. it's kinda like cheating yourself. We always meter at the headrest.. it's where you will hear it at... It's harder to get loud there but goes to show how much u know about getting loud there. Without a meter, u will never help yourself get louder. Also, sealed vs outlaw can change your peak note in the vehicle.

oh yea, didnt u know? AQ always lies about their amp ratings...... Noobs.. The ratings for all AQ amps are tested by the owner himself before releasing to the market.. 20kw Dynamic means at 18v. Sorry, but competitor information.. not for u

i witnessed a guy post a 157 with 2 15" L7s in a hatch off an Audiocontrol meter. Not as strict as the termlab but still at the headrest. People gotta understand that sanctions such as DbDrag, IASCA, USACI, etc... they all meter in a "loaded area". Windshield, kick, etc... MECA runs at the headrest... what's the difference u might ask? Loaded areas tend to peak MANY MANY times higher AND on a higher note. It's easier to get loud on a higher note as you climb in frequency. It's near stupid to compare metered scores if you don't know what sanction or how it was done. Headrest metering is known as Reality SPL. If you daily drive with the setup you meter, your head isn't in the windshield or down in the kick... it's at the headrest. So the next time u see someone post a 155 at the windshield or the kick... he isn't doin no where near that at the headrest.

I don't debate with stupid I wont put myself on their level.

hehe, i am wonderin that as well.. I wish i knew of a cheap tool used to measure THD. It come in handy with doing REAL power tests rather than THD @30% and higher and saying.. OMG it does more than rated....

from my understanding.. Mike didn't buy one.. he bought MANY. Be serious- An amp this large will typically and only be used for competitors whether it be for burps or their massive daily driver. I run over 20kw in my car... You think power is everything.. it isn't. It's just a figure. Stop putting the amp up on a pedestal for it's power rating. The amp was specifically focused toward USACI competitors. Only actual competitors would be interested in it and don't think only 1 has sold..lol. I don't why people would think AQ amps are inferior and prone to catch on fire? Rumors like that should be stopped. I might as well say Sundown amps are proned catch on fire because in all seriousness they are... any amp is depending on the failure. We have dealt with Sundown\AQ\Crescendo\Audiopipe amps around here in competition for quite a while with the exception of Crescendo since it's new. All of these amps are durable to abuse. Any one of those companies makes great amps for daily driving\burps in the lanes. Just wait and see for yourself. M1strass will be testing one himself shortly but it still doesn't matter whether or not it does rated or higher.. rumors and bashing will always go on... I know it's not just about the power but even though it's not warrantied. it is STILL serviceable through ARC i'm sure. If you were a serious high class competitor, you would know that at some point.. u need all the power u can get.

Yep, only the idler tones are a single compressed file, all other compilations require the whole package to download. The sweeps come in part1 and part2. Also, i have checked my tones and they register right where they should be so nothing wrong there. All my tones are recorded at 0db for 60sec. Sweeps are recorded at -3db because it's not necessary to have sweeps made that loud. you should check out the ultimate sweep i made, it's LONG....

only in competition. I am about to start tooling the inserts for these types of amps as it seems "others" are charging a higher price which is a turn off... Running multiple runs in competition is just to prevent any possible voltage drop from the battery to the amp. In daily driving, it's so minute, it isn't noticeable let alone audible.

i say this a lot... my signature. I made and host the largest collection of tones and sweeps